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Old 04-27-2016, 05:39 AM   #11
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What kind of vet? basic cat and dog OR ruminants?
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Old 04-27-2016, 06:31 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadrunner View Post
I used a bug sprayer to apply it.
It says on the bottle to roll or brush, spraying can get on good metal and cause issues, like etching of current galvanized metals.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
Most buses use 15/16 guage sheetmetal and even covering or repairing I would go with nothing less than original rotten metal?


If you do end up with galvanized sheet metal to paint (which i would use)you can see a coating/clear sheen on the metal that needs to be taken off before it will ever hold paint.
For flooring, an unspoken standard is 14 gauge galvanized "C" channel. so if you have smaller patches, I would use a similar gauged patch. If you need a larger area, i would suggest original manufacturer materials.

You can etch galvanization with ospho, or any of the other less reputable brand rust converters. Simply roll on and let sit over night. It will remove the sheen. Home Depot has a Krud Kutter brand you can get 2 gallons for about 30 dollars and it will resurface just fine. Make sure to rinse afterward. Primer will not stick to the powdery residue left over.
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Old 05-03-2016, 05:43 PM   #13
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Painting and a pound of flesh

So I'm trying to multi task and still attempting to get the seats out of bus 3 of 3. Thank God I'm only taking the seats out of one. A have chunks missing from all of my fingers. With or without gloves. Surgeon hands are NOT supposed to look like that.


I'm sanding bus 1 of 1 and I have some questions. Why did they make these buses so bumpy? I'm trying to sand in the grooves and I got a wire attachment for the this job. But, I it seems too sharp and just gouges. This is what I have:


I need advice about how to do this. I am trying to sand off the oxidized surface to paint.

The brighter yellow is sanded and the lighter is oxidized.


Also how can I get these rusted bolts out?

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Old 05-03-2016, 06:34 PM   #14
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Your hands are starting to look like mine LOL. I think you need a dual action (DA) sander. You can get one at Harbor Freight for $35.00 and a roll of sandpaper to fit it for about $20.00. You need a good compressor to run it though. If you can't do that go to Home Depot and get a larger brush like the one you have and put it in your angle grinder. They are also about $20.00. They sell a couple different textures, get what you think would be best. As far as the bolts if you can get to the nut behind them use 6 point wrenches or sockets. You could also use large vice grips if need be. A cutting torch would be the easiest if you have knowledge/access to one. You could always grind the head off and punch it through. Good luck.
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:50 PM   #15
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I think you said you had a grinder for taking the bolts off the seats. That's often the appropriate tool, or you can apply lubricant/solvent to the nut/bolt and give it some time before putting the vise grips to it again. Large channel locks might also grip that enough to take it out or break it off trying. Many of us go for immediate satisfaction and have the bloody knuckles to show it.

The sanding/etching you need to do to the paint is pretty easily done by hand. Choose a light-medium grit sandpaper that physically etches the surface of the paint. It only takes light pressure.
Wire wheels are more for stripping paint off. If you like using tech you'd be better off with a flat wire wheel on your grinder rather than the cup wheel you're using. Both have their advantages.
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:56 PM   #16
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I have the flat wire brush and some other things I picked up too for the bumpy areas. I was trying to find something faster than just by hand. Yes, I do have chunks missing from my hands everywhere for my efforts of instant satisfaction. Just not good when my hands are my income for surgery (I'm an ER vet by trade). I got some better gloves too.

I have read about a mineral spirits wash after sanding, before applying paint. What is the purpose of that wash?
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:59 PM   #17
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Sorry, I don't know why you'd wash that with mineral spirits. Are you sure it wasn't supposed to be spirits to drink? That would make it look better.

There is literally a bit of blood in each of these conversions.
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:17 PM   #18
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Two girls and some power tools

Well, I have new-found appreciation, respect and love for my angle grinder. I am using the angle grinder to grind out pop rivet attachments for tie down attachments used on the bus to hold band equipment in place. They are leaving large holes in the floor. ☹️





Some things I have learned about my angle grinder, some of which you guys may have learned on your own or maybe knew from common sense. I have always been told I am one of those smart people who lack in the common sense department. I don't know... I think I'm just stubborn.
1) burning rubber from angle grinder sparks stinks!
2) so does burning hair on your forearms! Wear long sleeves!
3) so does burning hair from your HEAD! Unless you want to re-enact a Pepsi commercial from the 80's featuring a certain deceased pop singer, wear a baseball hat too!
4) so do TOES!!!! Do NOT wear flip flops! LOL!
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Old 05-05-2016, 04:02 PM   #19
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Instead of grinding off rivits, try a unibit. See here: https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...HevXCIcQrRIILw

Get the smallest one they have and put a drop of oil on every rivet prior to drilling.

I've had really good luck with these in an air-powered drill. Takes about 6 seconds per rivet once you get the hang of it and it leaves a clean hole. YMMV.
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Old 05-05-2016, 04:30 PM   #20
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Also be aware that hot metal sparks will pit glass very badly. Be sure to tape some thing over any you are working next. I have seen windows & windshields pretty much ruined by said sparks.
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