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Old 04-17-2016, 07:14 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Cypress, Texas
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Year: 1996
Coachwork: International Thomas
Engine: DT466E
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Starting Mobile Vet Unit 1 of 3

Hello!
This is my first post for my saga of my skoolie to mobile vet clinic conversion project.
Of some of you know, I just purchased three buses from two different school auctions. One is a 1996 International Wayne, and the other two are 1981 International Wayne. The latter two already have the seats out, as they were used for band equipment buses. I am starting with one of those. The insides are lined with nasty black outdoor carpet. I conned two child slaves into helping me pull out carpet today. I was fairly dismayed to find rust in some areas of the back that had eaten holes through the floor. I was planning on prepping and painting with Rustoleum rusty metal primer, and then laying a subfloor. Should I paint underneath the bus too? What about reinforcing metal under the bus due to the holes?







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Old 04-17-2016, 07:41 PM   #2
Skoolie
 
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I would treat the floor and then fasten some sheet metal over the bad spots and then keep going like there wasn't any rust. Put a couple coats of Ospho on it then some primer and paint. Primer and paint the new metal too. It will last as long as the rest of the bus.
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:39 PM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
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I have never used ospho before. Researching it, I am afraid it's going to eat large holes through the floor. How do you know how long is enough for this stuff? Is there a gauge of sheet metal that I should place over the bad spots? Should I have any concern for need for reinforcement on the underside with the holes being so close to the outside walls of the bus?
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Old 04-18-2016, 07:42 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
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Engine: DT466E
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The name of the mobile veterinary service is Healthy Pets USA and our colors are red white and blue. We are painting the buses ourselves and wanted something eye-catching.
I came across this bus from Thomas and plan on copying, with the exception that I may do something different for the stars. Either no stars and just red white and blue, or use a contact paper star cut out as a stencile for the stars.

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Old 04-18-2016, 09:24 PM   #5
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I used a bug sprayer to apply it. You can brush/roll it on if you want. It will not eat holes in the metal. It stops further rusting. Just put it on and when it dries it turns white. You may need a second coat. It kinda turns to powder when it dries. Use goggles/respirator. When it is dry sweep the powder up, prime/paint over the Ospho and lay some sheet metal over where the bad spots are. The easiest way to fasten the new sheets would be to use pop rivets. Do you know how to use them? You could tack weld them but I assume you are not a welder LOL. You won't need too many, just enough to keep it in place. You could reuse the ceiling panels if you are removing them. You can use any thickness of metal. I would not go super thin though. Go to a metal supplier and look at the different gauges. I would think 20 or 22 gauge would be good enough. Just make sure to clean the new metal good and apply primer/paint to protect it. It should outlast the rest of the bus. I would not worry about reinforcing it underneath the bus. Just overlap the edges of the bad spots a little bit. Please don't hesitate to ask questions. I know you will have tons of them. Good luck.
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Old 04-21-2016, 10:32 AM   #6
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Year: 2000
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Engine: t444e
Do you have power where the buses are at? Assuming they are in Cypress and haven't floated away I can swing by on the way to work and tack sheet metal in for you, my welds ain't pretty but they (usually) hold
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
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I used a bug sprayer to apply it. You can brush/roll it on if you want. It will not eat holes in the metal. It stops further rusting. Just put it on and when it dries it turns white. You may need a second coat. It kinda turns to powder when it dries. Use goggles/respirator. When it is dry sweep the powder up, prime/paint over the Ospho and lay some sheet metal over where the bad spots are. The easiest way to fasten the new sheets would be to use pop rivets. Do you know how to use them? You could tack weld them but I assume you are not a welder LOL. You won't need too many, just enough to keep it in place. You could reuse the ceiling panels if you are removing them. You can use any thickness of metal. I would not go super thin though. Go to a metal supplier and look at the different gauges. I would think 20 or 22 gauge would be good enough. Just make sure to clean the new metal good and apply primer/paint to protect it. It should outlast the rest of the bus. I would not worry about reinforcing it underneath the bus. Just overlap the edges of the bad spots a little bit. Please don't hesitate to ask questions. I know you will have tons of them. Good luck.
Most buses use 15/16 guage sheetmetal and even covering or repairing I would go with nothing less than original rotten metal? I like to use stainless steel rivets for metal to metal connections because the stainless is stronger than what you are attaching and can resist all the twisting and turning of the metal as it is going down the road.
When you look for sheetmetal if you want to paint it.
There is raw/non-galvanized that will soak up several coats that you have to ask for in the 18-26 guage sometimes the thicker 16-12 guage is available but not common in a workable dimension for the homeowner.
If you do end up with galvanized sheetmetal to paint (which i would use)you can see a coating/clear sheen on the metal that needs to be taken off before it will ever hold paint.
More time and money
Use vinegar to take the coating/sheen off and buy a self etching primer.
Going to the big box store they are going to sell you a cold galvanizing compound in a spray but the metal is already galvanized?
If you choose this option find a commercial paint supplier and they probably have/can make samples in quarts which will cover quite a bit as far as patches go.
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Old 04-26-2016, 06:30 PM   #8
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Rated Cap: 71
Fiberglass and paint

Hello!
I am going to be working on the outside of the bus with paint while I'm working with the inside of the bus for metal floor repair. The nose of the bus has some damage, and I have never done fiberglass repair before. I would like to repair all three buses for fiberglass at the same time so that I can mix one container of the resin. I know that I want to repair the outside of the nose with the thinner fiber sheets and resin. On the inside of the hood, I can see that the fiberglass has been patched with heavier fabric where the mirrors go through the hood. Im wondering whether I should make additional patching or just leave it until it becomes a problem. Ill post a pic shortly. Do you prime fiberglass after you apply a patch when painting?

In regards to the floor, thanks for all the advice on the sheet metal repair. Im looking for a supplier in Houston. Im sure there is no shortage in this industrial city, just gotta find one close. I have not done riveting before, but I think I can do the pop rivets no problem. I may take you guys up on your offers to come help soon once a get the materials.
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Old 04-26-2016, 06:32 PM   #9
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Old 04-26-2016, 10:18 PM   #10
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HealthyPetsBus: I have had a really outstanding (and decade-long) relationship with Steel Supply, Inc on Telephone Rd just (barely) north of Loop 8 in Pearland. IMHO, these guys are just the bees knees when it comes to stocking what I need. Tube, sheet, angle, rod... You name it and they got it.

Website: https://www.steelsupplylp.com

Disclaimer: I have NO financial interest in the above vendor whatsoever. But they have LOTS of neat stuff, will cut anything to size, can deliver withing 50 miles, and have always been a patient, good-hearted resource for my many metal goofings. YMMV.
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Old 04-27-2016, 05:39 AM   #11
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What kind of vet? basic cat and dog OR ruminants?
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Old 04-27-2016, 06:31 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadrunner View Post
I used a bug sprayer to apply it.
It says on the bottle to roll or brush, spraying can get on good metal and cause issues, like etching of current galvanized metals.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
Most buses use 15/16 guage sheetmetal and even covering or repairing I would go with nothing less than original rotten metal?


If you do end up with galvanized sheet metal to paint (which i would use)you can see a coating/clear sheen on the metal that needs to be taken off before it will ever hold paint.
For flooring, an unspoken standard is 14 gauge galvanized "C" channel. so if you have smaller patches, I would use a similar gauged patch. If you need a larger area, i would suggest original manufacturer materials.

You can etch galvanization with ospho, or any of the other less reputable brand rust converters. Simply roll on and let sit over night. It will remove the sheen. Home Depot has a Krud Kutter brand you can get 2 gallons for about 30 dollars and it will resurface just fine. Make sure to rinse afterward. Primer will not stick to the powdery residue left over.
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Old 05-03-2016, 05:43 PM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 71
Painting and a pound of flesh

So I'm trying to multi task and still attempting to get the seats out of bus 3 of 3. Thank God I'm only taking the seats out of one. A have chunks missing from all of my fingers. With or without gloves. Surgeon hands are NOT supposed to look like that.


I'm sanding bus 1 of 1 and I have some questions. Why did they make these buses so bumpy? I'm trying to sand in the grooves and I got a wire attachment for the this job. But, I it seems too sharp and just gouges. This is what I have:


I need advice about how to do this. I am trying to sand off the oxidized surface to paint.

The brighter yellow is sanded and the lighter is oxidized.


Also how can I get these rusted bolts out?

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Old 05-03-2016, 06:34 PM   #14
Skoolie
 
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Year: 1999
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Your hands are starting to look like mine LOL. I think you need a dual action (DA) sander. You can get one at Harbor Freight for $35.00 and a roll of sandpaper to fit it for about $20.00. You need a good compressor to run it though. If you can't do that go to Home Depot and get a larger brush like the one you have and put it in your angle grinder. They are also about $20.00. They sell a couple different textures, get what you think would be best. As far as the bolts if you can get to the nut behind them use 6 point wrenches or sockets. You could also use large vice grips if need be. A cutting torch would be the easiest if you have knowledge/access to one. You could always grind the head off and punch it through. Good luck.
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:50 PM   #15
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I think you said you had a grinder for taking the bolts off the seats. That's often the appropriate tool, or you can apply lubricant/solvent to the nut/bolt and give it some time before putting the vise grips to it again. Large channel locks might also grip that enough to take it out or break it off trying. Many of us go for immediate satisfaction and have the bloody knuckles to show it.

The sanding/etching you need to do to the paint is pretty easily done by hand. Choose a light-medium grit sandpaper that physically etches the surface of the paint. It only takes light pressure.
Wire wheels are more for stripping paint off. If you like using tech you'd be better off with a flat wire wheel on your grinder rather than the cup wheel you're using. Both have their advantages.
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:56 PM   #16
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
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Engine: DT466E
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I have the flat wire brush and some other things I picked up too for the bumpy areas. I was trying to find something faster than just by hand. Yes, I do have chunks missing from my hands everywhere for my efforts of instant satisfaction. Just not good when my hands are my income for surgery (I'm an ER vet by trade). I got some better gloves too.

I have read about a mineral spirits wash after sanding, before applying paint. What is the purpose of that wash?
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:59 PM   #17
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Sorry, I don't know why you'd wash that with mineral spirits. Are you sure it wasn't supposed to be spirits to drink? That would make it look better.

There is literally a bit of blood in each of these conversions.
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:17 PM   #18
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Year: 1996
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Engine: DT466E
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Two girls and some power tools

Well, I have new-found appreciation, respect and love for my angle grinder. I am using the angle grinder to grind out pop rivet attachments for tie down attachments used on the bus to hold band equipment in place. They are leaving large holes in the floor. ☹️





Some things I have learned about my angle grinder, some of which you guys may have learned on your own or maybe knew from common sense. I have always been told I am one of those smart people who lack in the common sense department. I don't know... I think I'm just stubborn.
1) burning rubber from angle grinder sparks stinks!
2) so does burning hair on your forearms! Wear long sleeves!
3) so does burning hair from your HEAD! Unless you want to re-enact a Pepsi commercial from the 80's featuring a certain deceased pop singer, wear a baseball hat too!
4) so do TOES!!!! Do NOT wear flip flops! LOL!
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Old 05-05-2016, 04:02 PM   #19
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Instead of grinding off rivits, try a unibit. See here: https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...HevXCIcQrRIILw

Get the smallest one they have and put a drop of oil on every rivet prior to drilling.

I've had really good luck with these in an air-powered drill. Takes about 6 seconds per rivet once you get the hang of it and it leaves a clean hole. YMMV.
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Old 05-05-2016, 04:30 PM   #20
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Also be aware that hot metal sparks will pit glass very badly. Be sure to tape some thing over any you are working next. I have seen windows & windshields pretty much ruined by said sparks.
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