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Old 05-10-2007, 11:16 AM   #21
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Automatic chains you lost me there, why do you figure it has automatic chains?
For the length, I will measure it today, need to know anyhow to start drawing plans.

There is still a few things that I dont know yet about this bus, I need to find somebody around here who can explain it to me.
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Old 05-10-2007, 05:34 PM   #22
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Between the rear wheels check to see if you have chains hanging down. In your picture w/ the bus coming toward you there appears to be chains. If so, you have a switch somewhere on the dash that lowers and engages the disc w/ the chains on it. The chains rotate under the rear wheels for traction in the snow. It's an option on buses that seems to be pretty rare. Maybe not up in Canada, though
Ask away w/ questions- there's plenty of opinions around here!

Check out Jake VonSlatt's bus (it's the same as ours). GREAT conversion. (Jake VonSlatt is famous post)
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Old 05-11-2007, 02:58 AM   #23
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Have to check this out with the chains. I know there is some hanging there but I didnt crawl under the bus yet to see how it looks like.

All the seats are now out, cleaning can start. I couldnt find the long measuring tape before i had to run to work, so no measurements yet.

One or two questions, I noticed that many are using rigid insulation boards. Why?
It seems to me they are way harder to fit then pink / yellow matting insulation. Also the matts will be quiet were i think the stiff panels could be making noise if the move inside the frames.
I also didnt see anybody use any poly as a vapor barrier, wouldnt a barrier improve heat retention a bit?
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Old 05-11-2007, 04:29 AM   #24
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The rigid foam is way thinner than fiberglass. Unless you want to frame up the floor with 2x4's or 2x6's and lose that headroom I think the rigid foam is the only way to go. The rigid foam also isn't going to hold water, a threat on the floor. It really isn't hard to work with. A circular saw with a blade with many teeth mounted backwards or a Rotozip both work well as we found. Easier than a utility knife anyway.

As for the vapor barrier...I used a 5 mil plastic on my floor. It is all one sheet and comes about 6 inches or so up the walls on every side. I think most people run a vapor barrier although I guess I'm not positive. It was easy enough to do and cheap so I saw no reason not to run one.
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Old 05-11-2007, 11:12 AM   #25
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I will not be able to do anything with the floor anyway. Since my inside standing hight is only +6ft. (I am 6"and a bit) And I am not going to takle raising a roof on a 40ft bus.
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Old 05-11-2007, 01:51 PM   #26
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POR 15, how crucial is it to use the special cleaners and etchers before applying POR 15? Will a powerwasher not clean surfaces good enough to apply these products?
What kind of experience did you guys have with POR 15, how and where did you use it and how good did it stand up to the test? Long term satisfaction?
Anybody use their chrome paints?
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Old 05-11-2007, 03:36 PM   #27
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Inside height....by the time you rip out the old floor and replace it with the new insulated floor you're probably only going to lose an inch or so of headroom. After doing my floor I have exactly 6 feet in the middle. I'm 6'5" so I understand your pain, but since I was going to be ducking anyway I thought I would try and quiet the ride a little.

I've used POR-15 on lots of underbody stuff. Toyotas, especially the older ones, are not noted for their rust resistance. I never used a special etcher or anything. Heck, I didn't even read the instructions. The only thing I did was wirewheel off the area I wanted to do as best as I could (not necessarily bare metal, but no big flakes either), shot it quick with brake cleaner and wiped, and started spraying. So far, so good. Rustoleum is good. POR-15 is gooder.
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Old 05-11-2007, 08:33 PM   #28
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Quote: "...not going to tackle raising a roof on a 40ft bus."

You rang, Sire?

Sounds like I'm bringing the Magic Jacks to Canada also in 2008.

Honest, guys, I really believe that you can do it. The roof is not heavy. All you need to do
is build a sturdy guide system, so it doesn't slip out of place. The jacking can be done
with anything -- or ten anybodys.

This is turning into a challenge, all right?! I know you were scared by our Skoolie member who
almost lost the roof off his bus. Well, I mean him no offense, and he came across as a
wonderful human being and an all around good guy and all that, but he just didn't
take the time to prepare properly for the Task At Hand. An easy mistake to make,
if you are in a hurry to get it done. But with all this foresight, you can plan
and build proper guides. End of problem.

And OF COURSE I would be happy to consult via this forum as the job progresses.
Wouldn't that be a worthy project for the Skoolie Forum?
Maybe I should start a Roof Raise Challenge - Team Effort thread?

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Old 05-11-2007, 09:02 PM   #29
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Sorry Elliot, I'll pass on this one. Main reason, I live in BC, and BC has its own little rules. I am pretty sure I wouldnt be able to pass BC inspection If I raised the roof. I was hoping to bypass BC inspection by buying a Bus in BC. However I'm out of luck there, if I want to insure it as an RV I will have to have everything I do inspected, plumbing, wiring, etc. They say I'm making structural changes to the bus hence it has to pass inspection.
So no roof raising for me.

oh almost forgot, I do have automatic chains on this bus, will see next winter if they work.
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Old 05-11-2007, 09:26 PM   #30
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If you're already getting inspected for structural changes as it is....
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