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Old 01-22-2015, 04:49 AM   #11
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You guys and the root raising... I'm about talked into it now...
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Old 01-22-2015, 04:01 PM   #12
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I did some research in the way the boxed structure gets formed from the two sheets, and I think removing all the windows and replacing them with riveted sheet skin (attached to the ribs, tops, and bottoms) adds back most of the rigidity you've lost by removing the interior skin.

The ribs are subject to torsion and fore to aft lateral forces in normal and emergency situations, and the factory window frames preclude any sort of way to communicate the stress from the roof to the lower chassis. To compensate for that, the interior steel skin forms a full box structure that keeps the roof rigid.

If the interior skin is removed, and the windows replaced with sheet metal as mentioned above, the roof flexing forces are fully transferred to the lower structure, and rigidity is retained without the need for the inner ceiling panel.
I'm in agreement. IMHO the inner panels should be retained over the slideouts, at least, as that area is without the box structure provided by the skin over the sides. Where the side is skinned, the effect is the same. It's probably overkill, but that's why we like school buses in the first place. I'm on the look out for a 6" hole saw, I think the perforations would sacrifice very little in terms of strength, and having it set in dense, sticky foam would somewhat offset that. They would also negate any issues caused by the 'doublers' MuddaEarth mentions-- haven't probed for them yet.

I'm also on the hunt for a Snap-On-PH3050-equivalent air chisel to borrow, as the $400 they want for one is outside my budget. Our craftsman 875 weighs about 1/4 what those do.

Quote:
How are you transferring the stress and weight from the unsupported ribs to the supported ribs?
We're using 1.5"x2"x.125" rectangular tube to extend the supported ribs. There will be a box around the slideout made of the same stuff, and the header piece will extend to the first supported rib. The roof will spread the load.

Quote:
Are you bolstering the framing and lower floor support ribs (the horizontal ones that bolt to the truck body frame) to carry the additional point loads?

If the slide system is bolted directly to the frame, and thus the body/cabin "floats" around the slide and structure, is it really necessary to overbuild the cabin then?
There will be 2 large male/female square tubes that support the extended slide, similar to the pirate4x4 build that Nat often links(don't have a link handy). It'll have a supportive wear rail along the bottom outside chassis edge, as well. The slide will essentially be a floating box, so the bus will be slightly overbuilt to support it from the bottom and also so that it will keep its bus shape around the slide-- in the event of a collision, as time and gravity take their toll, or if I ever want to drag race her with the slides out .

Also, EastCoastCB, I can't speak personally for the ease of the roof raise, seeing as mine is yet to be supported by anything but 2 tiedowns and some allthread!

No progress today; rebuilding my parents' (korean made) GE dryer. The wife and I are under contract on a house, but until we get it we have to pay our rent somehow!
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Old 01-22-2015, 07:48 PM   #13
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Hold on a sec.... Are you telling me that if I want to raise the roof and remove the inner skin to replace the insulation, I either put back the inner skin, or cover my windows?!? What if I want to cover my new insulation with plywood? Isn't that what most ppl do in these cases?

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Old 01-22-2015, 07:55 PM   #14
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I like the use of the allthread. I can get that cheap or free.
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Old 01-22-2015, 09:08 PM   #15
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EastCoastCB,

For lift hardware, we used 3' of 1" x 1/8" square tube, 18' of 3/4" allthread, 18x 3/4" nuts, 6x 3/4" washers, 2 ratchet straps(in an 'X' for stability after ~12" of height), and some welding wire. Pretty economical.

skoolie_n00bie,

Regarding leaving the inner skin or skinning the windows, the difference in performance (that aaronsb and I speak of) would likely only be apparent in a serious accident. It's important to me that the roof be exceptionally sturdy, but even with no skin and no inner roof layer, you're still worlds ahead of the average sticks and staples. And as always, our armchair engineering degrees may have come from different universities.


Back on the subject of my build, I took some measurements for the slides today and hope to get the frames and ribs roughed in by the middle of next week. I also took measurements and did some brainstorming for the basement and radiant floor heating. Saturday we judge a regional science competition(balsa wood bridges!) and then Sunday we're going to pick up 1200 board feet of kilned lumber (mostly walnut) cut from my parents' land, some of which will become my interior cabinets! Talk about a birthday present!
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Old 01-22-2015, 09:15 PM   #16
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Thanks, any and all info and pics appreciated! Especially related to roof raising!
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Old 01-22-2015, 09:30 PM   #17
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Understood
Thanks!

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Old 01-23-2015, 03:52 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by JDecker View Post
All,

Thanks for the warm welcome! We want to full time, so insulation is of course a BIG priority. My wife is very excited for our adventure, but gave me the condition that she must always be warm. I can live with that!
welcome, and far enough south a convertible could be warm...beautiful sunrises/sunsets and fresh air and the stars at night all from your bus
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