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Old 04-28-2015, 05:32 PM   #41
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go get those safety triangles you tossed out with the seats!!!
you may never need them but they are nice to have anyway!

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Old 04-28-2015, 06:31 PM   #42
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Good eye!

X2 keep them for safety, and they are $$$ to replace
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Old 04-28-2015, 09:51 PM   #43
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Great to see you back.

And back at it.

Nat
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Old 04-29-2015, 04:45 AM   #44
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Great to see you back.

And back at it.

Nat
Thanks Nat. I should have broken down last year and gotten the 7" angle grinder then. I love how it makes short work of the bolt heads. I spent more time fighting with the chair rail bolts and pulling the seatbacks off than cutting heads.

And no worries about the triangles getting dumped. They're in the shed, in storage.
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:54 AM   #45
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Fibreglass. Why does it have to be fibreglass?



Pulled another ceiling panel this morning, followed by fibreglass. Have I ever mentioned just how much I hate fibreglass insulation?




Found some corrosion on one of the crossbeams


And I think the culprit is this particular screw (ground for the old strobe light?)
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Old 05-09-2015, 11:25 AM   #46
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No one hates it more than me. I have walked off job sites before due to the crap.

I used a big water hose to turn the dust into goo. Goo don't make you itch, and it won't get into your lungs when wet.

Also if doing a ton of the stuff, a tyveck coveralls coverall in a good $12 investment.

Nat
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Old 05-09-2015, 12:49 PM   #47
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Pulled another ceiling panel this morning, followed by fibreglass. Have I ever mentioned just how much I hate fibreglass insulation?




Found some corrosion on one of the crossbeams


And I think the culprit is this particular screw (ground for the old strobe light?)
I'm dealing with the rust myself-
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/fi...us-9771-7.html
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Old 05-09-2015, 09:23 PM   #48
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I dunno but the pics look like someone dragged a yellow cat against the tar.
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Old 05-16-2015, 09:00 PM   #49
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If you're pulling panels from the interior walls, they may be tack welded. Pulling this panel was the result of about an 45 minutes worth of work with a cold chisel and hammer.

And the blue overspray on the grey primer will get repainted with primer later. I know I may be doing things in a haphazard manner, but I do want to get an idea of how its going to be done, and what's going to be needed to get it done. Although there are times I just want to
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Old 05-17-2015, 12:32 AM   #50
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Don't pull the chair rail panel.

Nat
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Old 05-17-2015, 05:23 AM   #51
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Meow.........
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Old 05-17-2015, 06:20 AM   #52
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Don't pull the chair rail panel.

Nat
Already hadn't planned on that, and had planned on tying in a lot of the furnishings into it.
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Old 05-17-2015, 09:02 AM   #53
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I am in need of some advice. I want to replace the single pigtail incandescent lights with 2 pigtail (plus ground) LED lights- so it will look something like the last picture.
White is ground, and I already plan on chassis grounding them in pairs with nuts, bolts and fender washers. Any suggestions?






(Prototyping photo from last year)
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Old 05-17-2015, 09:16 AM   #54
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I am in need of some advice. I want to replace the single pigtail incandescent lights with 2 pigtail (plus ground) LED lights- so it will look something like the last picture.
White is ground, and I already plan on chassis grounding them in pairs with nuts, bolts and fender washers. Any suggestions?






(Prototyping photo from last year)
Ground each light at the location it is installed, use an external shake proof washer and scrape the paint off where you screw the ground in. If the lights are right close to each other you could use one ground, but i think I would go with two so I would not have to remove both grounds later if I had to replace a broken light.

the ring terminal on that light is large enough to go under a bolt, if you do not have a large flat head screw you could just install a new smaller ring terminal.
Thanks
Cliff
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Old 05-20-2015, 01:20 AM   #55
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What c_hasbeen said.

And add a bit of dielectric grease to keep out moisture.

99% of lights not working for us is a corroded bad ground connection.

Nat
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Old 05-20-2015, 08:07 AM   #56
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The problem isn't about grounding the LED lights, that I've already got figured out (each pair of lights to one grounding lug). The question is how do I go from a single pigtail connector (on the original incandescent light) to the double pigtail on the new lights?
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Old 05-20-2015, 08:14 AM   #57
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Quote:
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The problem isn't about grounding the LED lights, that I've already got figured out (each pair of lights to one grounding lug). The question is how do I go from a single pigtail connector (on the original incandescent light) to the double pigtail on the new lights?
On the yellow turn lights, connect the two wires together. The black wire is for running lights and the red one is for turn. You cannot have amber running lights on the rear. In that case, as I said, connect the two together or just use the red wire.

For your, tail/stop lights, there should be two wires. Again, black is running, and red on lights and whatever other wire on the bus is stop.
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Old 05-24-2015, 06:21 PM   #58
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Did you get that fiberglass fuzz cleaned off the ceiling yet? Just yesterday I went after mine and found that it could be scrubbed easily with a deck brush mounted on a 4 ft paint roller pole. I brushed the full ceiling of my long bus in less than an hour, and it did a good job of removing any fibers that weren't thoroughly embedded in the black adhesive stuff.
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Old 05-25-2015, 07:05 AM   #59
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Did you get that fiberglass fuzz cleaned off the ceiling yet? Just yesterday I went after mine and found that it could be scrubbed easily with a deck brush mounted on a 4 ft paint roller pole. I brushed the full ceiling of my long bus in less than an hour, and it did a good job of removing any fibers that weren't thoroughly embedded in the black adhesive stuff.
Not yet. I was looking through your recent update, saw that brush and said to SWMBO "That's exactly looking for!"
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Old 05-25-2015, 07:24 AM   #60
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lol at you folks worried about the right tool for raking off the fiberglass! After a couple months of frustrated grinding and scraping, we got 75% of the goop off using aircraft stripper. I wish the fiberglass was all I had to remove!
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