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04-28-2015, 05:32 PM
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#41
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Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 231
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go get those safety triangles you tossed out with the seats!!!
you may never need them but they are nice to have anyway!
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04-28-2015, 06:31 PM
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#42
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MNT CITY TN
Posts: 5,158
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Good eye!
X2 keep them for safety, and they are $$$ to replace
__________________
Our build La Tortuga
Accept the challenges so that you can feel the exhilaration of victory.
George S. Patton
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04-28-2015, 09:51 PM
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#43
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Great to see you back.
And back at it.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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04-29-2015, 04:45 AM
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#44
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster
Great to see you back.
And back at it.
Nat
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Thanks Nat. I should have broken down last year and gotten the 7" angle grinder then. I love how it makes short work of the bolt heads. I spent more time fighting with the chair rail bolts and pulling the seatbacks off than cutting heads.
And no worries about the triangles getting dumped. They're in the shed, in storage.
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05-08-2015, 08:54 AM
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#45
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
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Fibreglass. Why does it have to be fibreglass?
Pulled another ceiling panel this morning, followed by fibreglass. Have I ever mentioned just how much I hate fibreglass insulation?
Found some corrosion on one of the crossbeams
And I think the culprit is this particular screw (ground for the old strobe light?)
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05-09-2015, 11:25 AM
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#46
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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No one hates it more than me. I have walked off job sites before due to the crap.
I used a big water hose to turn the dust into goo. Goo don't make you itch, and it won't get into your lungs when wet.
Also if doing a ton of the stuff, a tyveck coveralls coverall in a good $12 investment.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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05-09-2015, 12:49 PM
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#47
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooternj
Pulled another ceiling panel this morning, followed by fibreglass. Have I ever mentioned just how much I hate fibreglass insulation?
Found some corrosion on one of the crossbeams
And I think the culprit is this particular screw (ground for the old strobe light?)
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I'm dealing with the rust myself-
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/fi...us-9771-7.html
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05-09-2015, 09:23 PM
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#48
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 584
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: I.H.
Engine: DT360
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I dunno but the pics look like someone dragged a yellow cat against the tar.
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05-16-2015, 09:00 PM
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#49
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
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05-17-2015, 12:32 AM
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#50
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Don't pull the chair rail panel.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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05-17-2015, 05:23 AM
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#51
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MNT CITY TN
Posts: 5,158
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Meow.........
__________________
Our build La Tortuga
Accept the challenges so that you can feel the exhilaration of victory.
George S. Patton
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05-17-2015, 06:20 AM
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#52
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster
Don't pull the chair rail panel.
Nat
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Already hadn't planned on that, and had planned on tying in a lot of the furnishings into it.
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05-17-2015, 09:02 AM
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#53
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
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I am in need of some advice. I want to replace the single pigtail incandescent lights with 2 pigtail (plus ground) LED lights- so it will look something like the last picture.
White is ground, and I already plan on chassis grounding them in pairs with nuts, bolts and fender washers. Any suggestions?
(Prototyping photo from last year)
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05-17-2015, 09:16 AM
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#54
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Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooternj
I am in need of some advice. I want to replace the single pigtail incandescent lights with 2 pigtail (plus ground) LED lights- so it will look something like the last picture.
White is ground, and I already plan on chassis grounding them in pairs with nuts, bolts and fender washers. Any suggestions?
(Prototyping photo from last year)
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Ground each light at the location it is installed, use an external shake proof washer and scrape the paint off where you screw the ground in. If the lights are right close to each other you could use one ground, but i think I would go with two so I would not have to remove both grounds later if I had to replace a broken light.
the ring terminal on that light is large enough to go under a bolt, if you do not have a large flat head screw you could just install a new smaller ring terminal.
Thanks
Cliff
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05-20-2015, 01:20 AM
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#55
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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What c_hasbeen said.
And add a bit of dielectric grease to keep out moisture.
99% of lights not working for us is a corroded bad ground connection.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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05-20-2015, 08:07 AM
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#56
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
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The problem isn't about grounding the LED lights, that I've already got figured out (each pair of lights to one grounding lug). The question is how do I go from a single pigtail connector (on the original incandescent light) to the double pigtail on the new lights?
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05-20-2015, 08:14 AM
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#57
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: MB
Posts: 279
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Tomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444e
Rated Cap: 54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooternj
The problem isn't about grounding the LED lights, that I've already got figured out (each pair of lights to one grounding lug). The question is how do I go from a single pigtail connector (on the original incandescent light) to the double pigtail on the new lights?
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On the yellow turn lights, connect the two wires together. The black wire is for running lights and the red one is for turn. You cannot have amber running lights on the rear. In that case, as I said, connect the two together or just use the red wire.
For your, tail/stop lights, there should be two wires. Again, black is running, and red on lights and whatever other wire on the bus is stop.
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05-24-2015, 06:21 PM
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#58
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,635
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
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Did you get that fiberglass fuzz cleaned off the ceiling yet? Just yesterday I went after mine and found that it could be scrubbed easily with a deck brush mounted on a 4 ft paint roller pole. I brushed the full ceiling of my long bus in less than an hour, and it did a good job of removing any fibers that weren't thoroughly embedded in the black adhesive stuff.
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05-25-2015, 07:05 AM
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#59
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon
Did you get that fiberglass fuzz cleaned off the ceiling yet? Just yesterday I went after mine and found that it could be scrubbed easily with a deck brush mounted on a 4 ft paint roller pole. I brushed the full ceiling of my long bus in less than an hour, and it did a good job of removing any fibers that weren't thoroughly embedded in the black adhesive stuff.
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Not yet. I was looking through your recent update, saw that brush and said to SWMBO "That's exactly looking for!"
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05-25-2015, 07:24 AM
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#60
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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lol at you folks worried about the right tool for raking off the fiberglass! After a couple months of frustrated grinding and scraping, we got 75% of the goop off using aircraft stripper. I wish the fiberglass was all I had to remove!
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