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Old 01-01-2011, 12:06 PM   #11
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 118
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: C60
Engine: Chevy 7.4l 454 FI
Rated Cap: 59
Re: The Amaranth Conversion

I realized I forgot to mention that process in my topic, will update my post to these steps but here is how I did the other part of the panel. once you get the center panel up there and bent over you will see how easily it lays on the front edge of the original cap, just pick your line where it lays best and thats your front. the hard part was definetly the rear edge. you/others may disagree but I let my panel hang over the raised roof about 1 1/2", fastened the front edge down with clamps so it wouldnt move and the hammer formed the metal down to match the contour of the roof. I used a MAP hand torch to heat the metal, started at the center, bent down a section and screwed it in place. moved over about 4" and did it again. the metal will buckle up inbetween the screws due the nature of the bend being done on a curve. that meatl that buckles up between is then heated and hammered down, shrinking it so it lays flat. then remove screws, lift panel, add sealer and rivet in place using old screw holes and some new ones were drilled also.
heres the pic to help explain, also note the color of that metal? It was a panel I pulled out of the ceiling of my bus. my bus had a section of longer windows so I had 2 extra wide panels that were 2 windows wide, worked well, galvanized too. I added more rivets between what you see in this pic. I took the pic while I had some daylight left. I drilled and riveted into the night. you can see where the metal is high toward the bottom of the pic and had to be riveted down more. the center of the roof laid down well, its once you get to the tight curve at the edges the metal becomes harder to manipulate. if you want to do it easy, eastwood co. sells a shrinker die you could use to get the same results without all the screwing, heating and hammering, but I was too cheap to buy it for a one time use........
http://www.skoolie.net/gallery2/d/32...01-10_1638.jpg
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Old 04-29-2011, 12:52 PM   #12
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Roswell, NM
Posts: 3,587
Year: 1986
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: 40 ft All American FE
Engine: 8.2LTA Fuel Pincher DD V8
Rated Cap: 89
Re: The Amaranth Conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by amaranth
... How have others attached hitches onto their skoolies?[/b]
Welded it on. We need to drill a few holes to bolt the hitch on as well (just a little extra peace of mind since David doesn't trust his welding skills). It held up to pulling a 5500lb Jeep 1700+ miles. Just a tip... allow large enough holes with enough clearance to attach the safety chains. Use threaded links or some way to keep your safety chain from "walking" off. We lost a safety chain off our vintage popup over night in a hotel parking lot.




This was all built from scrap we had laying around before we left NC. David bought a 2" square tube receiver from Harbor Freight in Asheville that would accept one of our 2" ball hitches. We used one with a drop on it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ube-97095.html this is what we bought and welded to the bus.
this is similar to one (or more) of our ball mounts. But I think ours has a longer drop (4"?). We have two or three different drops. While the two jeeps are the same height, the Class C and the Bus are higher and required a longer drop. The pick-up truck that we sold also required a longer drop so I have a long drop and a shorter drop. I think I have one in between the two. I just can't remember what we sold off and what we kept. At one point we had 5 ball mounts.
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Old 04-29-2011, 04:34 PM   #13
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Elk Plain, WA.
Posts: 513
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DTA360
Rated Cap: 16
Re: The Amaranth Conversion

My frame is the same width as an '80s chevy truck... My neighbor gave me the hitch off his when he got a flat bed...
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:12 PM   #14
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 11
Year: 90
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Alister
Engine: Cummings
Re: The Amaranth Conversion

I am having the issue where I removed my back door alarm, and now my bus wont start. I had it sitting for a while, and tried to charge the batteries, but when I turn the key it just makes a click noise. I am pretty lost because the wires are all different colors ect for the back door alarm hook up.

Anyone have a 1990 or similar model school bus (thomas built pusher) that may be able to help?
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:37 AM   #15
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Oregon/Philippines
Posts: 1,660
Re: The Amaranth Conversion

When i unhooked the rear door on the driver's side alarm system i had to ground one of the wires and i believe tape off the rest. I may have had to connect two of them together.. This is on a 1991 thomas pusher. So if you have a thomas, you probably have wiring to both the latch and the safety latch mechanisms like my bus..What i did to solve the issue when mine wouldn't start, was to remove the switches from the brackets they were enclosed in, then hook the wires up just as they were originally, then remove one at a time and go try to start the bus..That is how i discovered which wire to ground, and what else to do. My bus also had wiring between the two switches going through the wall, which i discovered as i went along, and therefore i was able to remove the duplicate wiring at the same time. I believe there is a total of three main wires, with one which has to be grounded.
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Old 04-03-2012, 02:52 PM   #16
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 11
Year: 90
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Alister
Engine: Cummings
Re: The Amaranth Conversion

Ok I got the vandalock system bypassed. Alled a guy out to help me who knew more about electrical stuff.

Basically you have to connect the two wires and ground the third.
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