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Old 11-29-2010, 02:25 PM   #1
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Re: The Amaranth Conversion

welcome
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Old 11-29-2010, 05:02 PM   #2
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Re: The Amaranth Conversion

Welcome aboard! Post lots of pictures!

As Smitty mentioned on the windows... lots of condensation. Having just finished the prep work, 99% of the rust damage in my ~28 year old Thomas is all below the windows. It's like someone drew a line. Nice new metal above, stains and rust below. Considering how easy the windows came out and how cheap FRP or other paneling is, I really kick myself for not pulling them on the first bus. Yours might be a lot easier to caulk up than mine, though.

Anyway, show us what you go with, whatever you chose and enjoy your skoolie!
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Old 11-29-2010, 06:14 PM   #3
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Re: The Amaranth Conversion

When raising a roof, you need to keep in mind your overall height when finished. Are you going to have AC units, Sat Dishes, etc on the roof? Take those additional things into account when figuring your roof raise. 12'6" is generally the height to be kept under. While 13' 6" is considered the max height for most places, you will still run into 12' 6" bridges (and lower) on the backroads. A lot of stores (like Wal-Mart) are installing height barriers. Usually at 12"6" or 12 ft height.

If you are raising your roof then you will want to carry a current Motor Carriers Road Atlas
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Old 11-30-2010, 05:47 PM   #4
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Re: The Amaranth Conversion

how cold did it get last nite? Batteries dont like extreme cold or heat.
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Old 12-05-2010, 08:58 PM   #5
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Re: The Amaranth Conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by amaranth
Still can't start the bus, after the battery charged to full and it was probably 60 degrees when I tried. Just one click.
What would be in the starter circuit that would prevent it from starting?
If the battery is known to be good, then try using a screwdriver with insulated handle to bridge the starter solenoid poles directly (warning: you're dealing with some serious amperage here - don't electrocute yourself!). If that results in the engine spinning, then your problem is between the ignition and the solenoid. If it does nothing, then test to be sure you are getting 12v at the solenoid from the battery, this being true it's probably time to get the solenoid/starter tested.
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:11 PM   #6
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Re: The Amaranth Conversion

Yeah, I would make sure your connections are clean and tight. You could have a corroded cable or terminal at the battery or the starter. Also check your grounds.

Start with the simple stuff first.

If the cables, connections and battery are all good. Then I would suspect the starter. At that point you could try what Diesel Dan said.

Good luck.
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Old 12-07-2010, 07:33 PM   #7
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Re: The Amaranth Conversion

Check around for a place that rebuilds starters if it turns out that it's bad... It could save you a bunch of money... Never dealt with a bus starter, but there's a few places up here that I've had rebuild starters for all kinds of vehicles and saved a lot of dough...
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Old 12-08-2010, 02:03 PM   #8
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Re: The Amaranth Conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by amaranth
The folks at the sheet metal shop claim you can paint galvanized if you etch it with moradic acid first.
They are probably talking about muriatic (aka Hydrochloric) acid and I suspect it's similar in action to Phosphoric acid (aka Naval Jelly) in that you'll want to make sure you wash it all off before painting... as well as limiting the time it's in contact with the metal. Muriatic acid can be picked up in various places that sell swimming pool supplies and is used to 'pickle' metal to ensure it's clean and free of oxidants BEFORE it is galvanized.

I am not sure about the whole thing, so I'm choosing the 'primer for galvanized metal' route.
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Old 12-14-2010, 01:31 PM   #9
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Re: The Amaranth Conversion

lots of progress!
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Old 12-31-2010, 08:57 PM   #10
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Re: The Amaranth Conversion

Wow, it was a year ago my roof was at that point.........Looking good so far, keep it up. are you cutting out the roof over the driver area? I dont know how you plan on doing your transistion but I did mine like this: pulled the center panel of metal into the bend with clamps and straps, saw where it was going to lay and marked out about 1 1/2" away. then took it down, cut on the lines, put in place and attached it. then I put in my supports under it so I could get them tight to the skin, and the metal would bend smoothly instead of over a support if I judged it wrong. then I did my side panels which were the hardest to bend so far over, slipping the tops under the center panel. I reckon your 18" will make this bend even harder. an extra set of hands is helpful during this time! You are going to catch up to me and probably pass me up at this rate.
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