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Old 04-29-2019, 11:35 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Joe45 View Post
New plans using the ALiner idea.
Not sure that an actual ALiner would be the best choice. I think even the shell may be unnecessarily heavy, getting it off the chassis may be a task, and the dimensions aren't right for the bus (I need it to mount so that the door faces forward).
So...
I may just make my own.
Unless I find a small ALiner that is basically gutted.









http://www.skoolie.net/forums/member...cture21505.jpg
by expanding that concept, I can see where insulating the ceiling could be done, perhaps, without removing the interior metal ceiling, and insulating under the add-on bedroom and deck - adjustable vents opening from the bus could be used to heat the add-on bedroom
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Old 04-29-2019, 12:26 PM   #22
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'would sure be an easy way to add 2 - 4 more sleeping areas and more 'living space' in the bus

Yeah, but I want the deck. I'll have pull-out sofa bed or something in case we have a guest.
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Old 04-29-2019, 12:27 PM   #23
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by expanding that concept, I can see where insulating the ceiling could be done, perhaps, without removing the interior metal ceiling, and insulating under the add-on bedroom and deck - adjustable vents opening from the bus could be used to heat the add-on bedroom


Yes indeed, though I'll probably replace the old insulation anyway just to be safe. With the perforated ceiling, I don't want those old insulation particles raining down on me. I'll paint the roof with TropiCool, which will help, as will the deck-but that's mainly with heat from the sun. For the cold, I figure that inside insulation will be important.



Making the deck solid-basically another sealed area above the roof, and insulated, would do a lot for the insulation. I'm just wondering if there would be problems with sealing it properly, rust, etc. Pourable expanding foam may be a good thing for that.



I'll install a couple of vents to the upstairs, maybe with computer fans to circulate the warm air.


I'm anxious to get the bus so I can start!
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Old 04-29-2019, 02:51 PM   #24
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Yes indeed, though I'll probably replace the old insulation anyway just to be safe. With the perforated ceiling, I don't want those old insulation particles raining down on me. I'll paint the roof with TropiCool, which will help, as will the deck-but that's mainly with heat from the sun. For the cold, I figure that inside insulation will be important.



Making the deck solid-basically another sealed area above the roof, and insulated, would do a lot for the insulation. I'm just wondering if there would be problems with sealing it properly, rust, etc. Pourable expanding foam may be a good thing for that.



I'll install a couple of vents to the upstairs, maybe with computer fans to circulate the warm air.


I'm anxious to get the bus so I can start!
l've used rubber membrane roofing on trailers in the past with great success - it's tough, screw holes etc are self healing - tears are easier to patch than they are to make - I was painting a commercial building one time, standing on a roof to paint a wall that was higher than the part of the building I was standing on, when the rubber roofing sagged under my weight - gave me quite a start at first, but quickly realised the rubber was holding my 180 lbs without tearing - ( the roofer had bridged a 2' gap between what was in reality, 2 different buildings, with the rubber roofing ) - I put the rubber filament on the trailer I use to transport my sleddogs about 18 - 20 years ago - fastened and unfastened various items to the roof with screws - walked on it, hauled dog sleds, straw bales, buckets and various other items on top of the rubber and still no leaks - it's never been stored under cover - I picture the cross beams on the roof of the bus will be cut to conform with the curve of the bus - suitably sealed to the roof and well treated with wood preservative before painting them, then insulating between the cross beams and edging, and decking with t@g 5/8ths plywood flooring, then covering the whole thing with the rubber membrane - now there is a flat deck the length and width of the bus looking no different than about an 8" roof raise to the casual observer, and water proof - on top of the deck, there can be any thing laid out the way that suits me best - it can have my quasi tent trailer on it, even with solar panels on top of the pretend tent trailer - there can be storage boxes, space to sit and have a drink, or in my case, room to carry a 1/2 dozen dog sleds protected from wind, rain, and road grime by the 'tent trailer' in front of them - plywood sides, fronts and backs exposed to the elements can be 'Crezone' ( paper faced sign board ) and painted with the same industrial enamel as the metal bus - the paint on the sign board will last almost as long as it does on the metal bus, and easy to repaint if it did need repainting during the rest of my lifetime
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Old 04-29-2019, 03:43 PM   #25
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EPDM?
That's a great idea. May be useful not only for the bus roof, but the Aliner roof too.
I've heard the Aliners have problems with condensation due to the aluminum being exposed inside and acting like a thermal bridge. The rubber may help, along with covering the aluminum on the inside as well.


Wondering about that membrane under the floor also.
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Old 04-29-2019, 04:13 PM   #26
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EPDM?
That's a great idea. May be useful not only for the bus roof, but the Aliner roof too.
I've heard the Aliners have problems with condensation due to the aluminum being exposed inside and acting like a thermal bridge. The rubber may help, along with covering the aluminum on the inside as well.


Wondering about that membrane under the floor also.
it would certainly keep insulation and/or plywood dry
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Old 04-29-2019, 04:40 PM   #27
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Entertain this idea?
Unistrut system with L-brackets and wing nuts that slide, 1-1/2" foam board as insulation,EPDM over that and use the EPDM as the sides glued ,and screwed through alumininum strips to the bus roof.
The EPDM sides will allow them to collapse when you let it down and expand to height when you raise it.
For a door you could use or build one that folds to the inside and rest on the ladder way while the top is collapsed.
Or make the whole top and door hinge forward to lay down instead of lowering in the bus.
Much lighter than a fibreglass top but either choice I see having to secure it for going down the road.
Sure would recommend looking into HILTI unistrut system.
For a lot of things not just this?
Other suppliers have the same stuff but Hilti has the whole design idea,weights, tutorials and all.
Any hospital/dentist built after 2000 probably has a uni-strut system holding that equipment over your head when you go in and I hang pipe and equipment off of it daily.
Including 12-1400 pounds on the 12-guage stuff. And they make some called double strut that holds even more.
Good luck
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Old 04-29-2019, 06:13 PM   #28
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Entertain this idea?
Unistrut system with L-brackets and wing nuts that slide, 1-1/2" foam board as insulation,EPDM over that and use the EPDM as the sides glued ,and screwed through alumininum strips to the bus roof.
The EPDM sides will allow them to collapse when you let it down and expand to height when you raise it.
For a door you could use or build one that folds to the inside and rest on the ladder way while the top is collapsed.
Or make the whole top and door hinge forward to lay down instead of lowering in the bus.
Much lighter than a fibreglass top but either choice I see having to secure it for going down the road.
Sure would recommend looking into HILTI unistrut system.
For a lot of things not just this?
Other suppliers have the same stuff but Hilti has the whole design idea,weights, tutorials and all.
Any hospital/dentist built after 2000 probably has a uni-strut system holding that equipment over your head when you go in and I hang pipe and equipment off of it daily.
Including 12-1400 pounds on the 12-guage stuff. And they make some called double strut that holds even more.
Good luck
it's great being able to bounce ideas off each other - one nebulous idea morphs into something practical and yet adjustable for individual needs - I can see where this idea could change a lot of people's plans - just have to build one now -a finished product will tell the real story
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Old 04-30-2019, 10:40 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223 View Post
Entertain this idea?
Unistrut system with L-brackets and wing nuts that slide, 1-1/2" foam board as insulation,EPDM over that and use the EPDM as the sides glued ,and screwed through alumininum strips to the bus roof.
The EPDM sides will allow them to collapse when you let it down and expand to height when you raise it.
For a door you could use or build one that folds to the inside and rest on the ladder way while the top is collapsed.
Or make the whole top and door hinge forward to lay down instead of lowering in the bus.
Much lighter than a fibreglass top but either choice I see having to secure it for going down the road.
Sure would recommend looking into HILTI unistrut system.
For a lot of things not just this?
Other suppliers have the same stuff but Hilti has the whole design idea,weights, tutorials and all.
Any hospital/dentist built after 2000 probably has a uni-strut system holding that equipment over your head when you go in and I hang pipe and equipment off of it daily.
Including 12-1400 pounds on the 12-guage stuff. And they make some called double strut that holds even more.
Good luck





I'm not picturing what you're saying exactly. Are you saying to use the unistrut as channels to slide the sleeping area up and down?
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Old 06-11-2019, 11:30 PM   #30
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She's HOME!

Picked up the bus yesterday morning at AAA Bus in Phoenix and drove her up to the white mountains!


Tony and Joe down at AAA were great and very helpful!


My first time driving a school bus was driving this one out of the lot at AAA! It was a BRUTAL 110+/- in Phoenix by the time we set out, and it didn't ease up until we got to higher elevation a few hours later.



I had to go slow because the bus threw an overheating alarm on the highway, which scared the hell out of me! Backing up on the throttle quickly brought the temperature back down, but I wasn't happy having to average 40mph on the highway.


Going up the steep grades was a royal PIA, because of the discomfort from the heat, 20mph, and having to constantly monitor the temperature gauge-not to mention the NOISE!


Still, by the time we got to Payson, the temperature had dropped considerably and I was able to make more time-except for pulling up that last mountain heading to Show Low, which was 20mph all the loooong way up.



The more I look at this bus, the more inspired I get! She's a blank canvas just waiting to be personalized!
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Old 06-11-2019, 11:35 PM   #31
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Old 06-11-2019, 11:53 PM   #32
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1. The ceiling is attached with screws, not rivets. Still trying to decide if it's worth removing it to insulate, since I'm adding a deck and plan to insulate between it and the room.
Also, I kind of like the way the perforated metal looks in white on the ceiling. I could also cover it with that thin "luan" stuff, but think I prefer the white.



2. Pretty sure I'm leaving the floor as is. It's a Scottsdale bus (desert) and the floor is immaculate. There is no rust anywhere on that bus.

It's also covered with those tie-downs, which I hear are an absolute hell to remove. Figure I can use them to tie down the furniture, and throw a rug or even a wood walkway down the center.


I will probably remove the rubber coating though.



3. The A/C units are coming out-because they are huge and also useless. Need to figure out how to do that without causing myself death or serious injury.


4. The heaters are coming out as well-because they are in the way and not too useful. I'd rather install a mini wood stove.


5. I will be closing in the main entrance, chopping out the stairs, and using that as storage. I need to figure out how to throw a floor over that area and install a passenger seat for my wife. This area will double as the passenger area and office.


The main entrance will then become the steel door where the lift is now. I will have to remove that lift (and hopefully sell it) , and manufacture a fold-down step.



6. I noticed that environmental temperature has a HUGE effect on the buss' ability to run cool and not overheat. I have the following idea: Install a second radiator using the line that goes to the heater. The valves will allow me to shut flow during winter, but have extra during summer.


Placement of the second radiator ideas:
a. On top of hood, with a custom louver fitted with a powerful fan to blow air through it.


b. Install overhead with a similar enclosure and fan.


7. Strong fans on each side of the hood, in custom enclosures, to blow air into the engine compartment. I figure blowing down, as up would move air off the blistering roads.



8. Mentioned it before, but will be removing the lift and hopefully selling it. It works perfectly, and I even thought of using that as basically an "elevator" to get in and out. But that seems ridiculous with how slow it is, and I hate depending on that to get in and out each time.



I considered relocating the lift to the back door, to use for whenever necessary, but again, it's really a waste of time, effort, space, and weight.



I have video, which will go on youtube once I get the chance to edit it together.


9. One last thing: I may rename the bus. I like "The Argo", but at the same time it seems not that unique a name, and the legend has the ship killing its captain. So I'm thinking of another name-maybe.
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Old 06-12-2019, 02:17 AM   #33
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Argo-not?
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Old 06-12-2019, 06:04 AM   #34
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Christ on a cracker, that was just terrible!!!
(naughty pun, I like it. )

Quote:
Originally Posted by plfking View Post
Argo-not?
Congrats on successfully navigating your acquisition home! Now then, a coupla notes...
Luaun is friable stuff, 1/8" will splinter or crack if you look at it sideways. Using it on my ceiling, and getting a clean fit onto the curves is a chore.
The main thing holding up on my installing a roof deck is most insurers disallow such structures. It's hard enuf insuring a Skoolie, be certain before you whip out your big deck...
Gonna add comments in bold to your original from here, too lengthy to keep going back n forth.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe45 View Post
1. The ceiling is attached with screws, not rivets. Still trying to decide if it's worth removing it to insulate, since I'm adding a deck and plan to insulate between it and the room.
Also, I kind of like the way the perforated metal looks in white on the ceiling. I could also cover it with that thin "luan" stuff, but think I prefer the white.



2. Pretty sure I'm leaving the floor as is. It's a Scottsdale bus (desert) and the floor is immaculate. There is no rust anywhere on that bus.

It's also covered with those tie-downs, which I hear are an absolute hell to remove. Figure I can use them to tie down the furniture, and throw a rug or even a wood walkway down the center.


I will probably remove the rubber coating though.

You might want to seriously consider insulating the floor, lest the A/C's chill leak away thru it.
Speaking of which- you'll either need to hire an HVAC cat to come out to suck the refrigerant from your system, or invest in the gear to do so yourself


3. The A/C units are coming out-because they are huge and also useless. Need to figure out how to do that without causing myself death or serious injury.


4. The heaters are coming out as well-because they are in the way and not too useful. I'd rather install a mini wood stove.
Might wanna reconsider doing that until you've addressed the overheat situation.
Its a messy, complicated evolution, not to mention that you can currently improve engine cooling by firing them up.


5. I will be closing in the main entrance, chopping out the stairs, and using that as storage. I need to figure out how to throw a floor over that area and install a passenger seat for my wife. This area will double as the passenger area and office.


The main entrance will then become the steel door where the lift is now. I will have to remove that lift (and hopefully sell it) , and manufacture a fold-down step.



6. I noticed that environmental temperature has a HUGE effect on the buss' ability to run cool and not overheat. I have the following idea: Install a second radiator using the line that goes to the heater. The valves will allow me to shut flow during winter, but have extra during summer.


Placement of the second radiator ideas:
a. On top of hood, with a custom louver fitted with a powerful fan to blow air through it.
This sounds like a plumbing nightmare, routing hoses so as to not impede opening the hood. Not to mention that fiercesome AZ Sun pounding down on it.

b. Install overhead with a similar enclosure and fan.


7. Strong fans on each side of the hood, in custom enclosures, to blow air into the engine compartment. I figure blowing down, as up would move air off the blistering roads.

That might work, even several feet above grade, particularly pavement, while won't be cool will be cooler...

8. Mentioned it before, but will be removing the lift and hopefully selling it. It works perfectly, and I even thought of using that as basically an "elevator" to get in and out. But that seems ridiculous with how slow it is, and I hate depending on that to get in and out each time.



I considered relocating the lift to the back door, to use for whenever necessary, but again, it's really a waste of time, effort, space, and weight.



I have video, which will go on youtube once I get the chance to edit it together.


9. One last thing: I may rename the bus. I like "The Argo", but at the same time it seems not that unique a name, and the legend has the ship killing its captain. So I'm thinking of another name-maybe.
Howzabout, Arslow..?
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Old 06-12-2019, 06:26 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe45 View Post
Picked up the bus yesterday morning at AAA Bus in Phoenix and drove her up to the white mountains!


Tony and Joe down at AAA were great and very helpful!


My first time driving a school bus was driving this one out of the lot at AAA! It was a BRUTAL 110+/- in Phoenix by the time we set out, and it didn't ease up until we got to higher elevation a few hours later.



I had to go slow because the bus threw an overheating alarm on the highway, which scared the hell out of me! Backing up on the throttle quickly brought the temperature back down, but I wasn't happy having to average 40mph on the highway.


Going up the steep grades was a royal PIA, because of the discomfort from the heat, 20mph, and having to constantly monitor the temperature gauge-not to mention the NOISE!


Still, by the time we got to Payson, the temperature had dropped considerably and I was able to make more time-except for pulling up that last mountain heading to Show Low, which was 20mph all the loooong way up.



The more I look at this bus, the more inspired I get! She's a blank canvas just waiting to be personalized!
What?
It sounds like you got a bus that overheats easily. I'd be calling the wonderful dealer and asking why its overheating going 40 on the highway.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:21 AM   #36
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Argo-not?

Jason would be appalled!
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:42 AM   #37
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FLOOR:

I keep hearing that removing those tie-down channels is a nightmare. Is there a less hellish way of removing them? Is there a special tool? I see what looks like simple allen bolts-but are they lock-tighted in?



Also, I figured that a good rug would insulate the floor pretty good. Am I wrong?



HEATERS
My original thought was to move the heaters outside somehow, like underneath, to use them as an extra radiator. Using them inside would turn the bus into an oven.


RADIATOR
On top of the hood I was thinking of the extra radiator on a hinge that allows it to lift up to allow the hood to be pulled forward. The cover would be easily removable. I'd have to plumb the lines so they don't interfere with the hood, but they're already sort of out of the way by going inside the bus to the heaters.


The Arizona sun would be blocked by the louver covering the radiator. There would be openings for the air to escape, but the sun will not be hitting the radiator directly.


Another position idea is up above the windshield, with a custom cover. But will the water pump get strained pushing the water up that high is the question. With the heaters removed and not having to push all that water around the bus, I figure it would be fine. But then, I'm no bus guru.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:46 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
What?
It sounds like you got a bus that overheats easily. I'd be calling the wonderful dealer and asking why its overheating going 40 on the highway.

I don't have any experience with these vehicles. It was 110 or more in Phoenix. It was brutal. I saw at least two cars pulled, overheated, while over going up the mountains. The bus was not overheating at that time.

But it gave me the alarm when I was accelerating and doing almost 60mph. I had slow down to 40 so it would cool down.




My neighbor used to drive a similar sized delivery truck as the bus and he said he had a similar problem.



Still, I can't see that it should overheat at all on the highway. I contacted AAA Bus about it and am waiting for a response. From what I experienced with Tony, and the reviews, I'm confident that if there's a problem he'll take care of it.


Any ideas and advice is appreciated though!
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:44 AM   #39
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I'm leaning more towards Idea 2, with the radiator above the windshield.
1. No hinges or needing to move radiator out of the way to open the hood.
2. Hoses are already routed to the inside of the bus, so all I have to to is reroute them to the top.
3. I can make a shroud for the radiator that gives the bus a more "Class C" look, and shields the radiator from the sun.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg RadiatorIdea_1.jpg (170.0 KB, 173 views)
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:48 AM   #40
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Anyone know why part of my thread above is showing pictures I never posted all of a sudden?

The photos I put yesterday are now changed to some random pictures of other rigs and other people-and it is the one post that doesn't show an "edit" option.


Also, I can't type a response without having to sign back in every time I'm gonna post it.
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