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06-24-2019, 06:49 PM
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#101
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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I actually took a pressure washer to the inside, didn't figure there was any harm to be done in the metal box, that in this heat would be dry in an hour. It took care of all the loose fiberglass and particles and removed a bunch of the residue tar adhesive from the ceiling. Bonus at the dump you can weigh your bus accurately.
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06-24-2019, 07:22 PM
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#102
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe45
Removed the ceiling insulation today wearing one of those one piece body suit things, goggles, and respirator. Then I wire-brushed what was still stuck to the ceiling.
All the insulation is in the bus, at the back, on the floor. Plan on driving it to the dump tomorrow.
Took a shower and the water ran something in my eye. Flushed for a while with no improvement.
Just got back from urgent care. Still feel something, but hoping its just the irritation left over. Nothing like before. Not a pleasant experience!
So now I'm concerned, because driving the bus to the dump is gonna probably agitate all that insulation in the back and start particles flying all over the place.
I was sure I had large trash bags, but couldn't find them. They may be in my wife's Jeep. If they are, seems like the best bet is to carefully wrangle the fiberglass into those bags before driving anywhere. If they aren't, seems like the best bet is to go get some, and carefully wrangle the fiberglass into those bags before driving anywhere.
Also, thinking of hosing down the bus inside to get the other particles down and out.
Any suggestions?
I really can't wait to end the stripping part so I can start building!
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can you tarp it until it's ready to unload?
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06-25-2019, 10:34 AM
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#103
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 478
Year: 2004
Engine: 7.3L Navistar T444e Diesel
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Thanks everybody. My eye is good now. It was something hard, like a tiny stone or metal shaving that got in there. Doctor flushed it out and slobbered some cream all in and around my eye. Was bothering me a little until I went to bed, but feels fine now.
I guess it is prudent to keep one's eyes closed in the shower for a while, until everything is rinsed off.
About to get started on watering down that fiberglass, then going to the dump. The bus is covered in that crap, so I'm gonna hose the whole thing down. Going to use a vacuum cleaner on the seat.
I had no idea what a nightmare that crap is!!!
Can't wait to get this part over with! It just SUCKS!!!
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06-25-2019, 10:53 AM
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#104
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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"Slobbered some cream...?
Whoa now, could you please dumb down the medico-babble for us, Doctor House?!!
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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06-25-2019, 01:45 PM
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#105
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 478
Year: 2004
Engine: 7.3L Navistar T444e Diesel
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So I got the fiberglass in trash bags and loaded up the bus with stuff for the dump.
And now...
No rear turn signals.
No break lights.
Stuck.
I have no idea where to start.
The mechanic at the school district where I work was going to look at the bus, but now I'm stuck here.
Its about 15 miles to the school, so not too good driving with no break lights or turn signals.
He tried walking me through some stuff on the phone, but it makes no sense to me. The fuses are different that what I'm used to. Can't tel if they're good or not.
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06-25-2019, 02:20 PM
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#106
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Take care of your eyes! They are tough to replace.
A cautionary tale... A few years ago I nearly lost an eye due to operating shop equipment without proper eye protection. It was MISERABLE!!!! two weeks with a patch on my eye then three weeks at home with the blinds closed due to light sensitivity. Doctor told me that I was very lucky to have recovered fully.
Since then I am a little OCD about protecting my eyes.
BTW: the dangerous piece of shop equipment that I was operating was a broom.
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06-25-2019, 02:27 PM
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#107
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
Take care of your eyes! They are tough to replace.
A cautionary tale... A few years ago I nearly lost an eye due to operating shop equipment without proper eye protection. It was MISERABLE!!!! two weeks with a patch on my eye then three weeks at home with the blinds closed due to light sensitivity. Doctor told me that I was very lucky to have recovered fully.
Since then I am a little OCD about protecting my eyes.
BTW: the dangerous piece of shop equipment that I was operating was a broom.
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.................... .........................
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06-25-2019, 03:04 PM
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#108
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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What sort of fuses are you accustomed to?
I gotta figure you've got blade-type fuses in your bus, so; looking at the housing from the blades' wide side, you'll see an, "S" shaped wire.
If you're seeing a, "Z" shape, flip it around...
If there's a break, its typically in the 'descending' cross piece, meaning its blowed up. Very rare for the burn out to occur on the top/bottom bars, but confirm, all the same.
Some of the micro blade fuses are opaque. Just it hold up to a decent light to determine condition.
If you don't have a fuse puller in the fuse box, some needlenose pliers or a Leatherman will do nicely for removal/replacement.
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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06-25-2019, 03:05 PM
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#109
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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I concur!
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
Take care of your eyes! They are tough to replace.
A cautionary tale... A few years ago I nearly lost an eye due to operating shop equipment without proper eye protection. It was MISERABLE!!!! two weeks with a patch on my eye then three weeks at home with the blinds closed due to light sensitivity. Doctor told me that I was very lucky to have recovered fully.
Since then I am a little OCD about protecting my eyes.
BTW: the dangerous piece of shop equipment that I was operating was a broom.
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But then, I could f@{k up an anvil with a rubber mallet...
__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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06-25-2019, 05:07 PM
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#110
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 478
Year: 2004
Engine: 7.3L Navistar T444e Diesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
Take care of your eyes! They are tough to replace.
A cautionary tale... A few years ago I nearly lost an eye due to operating shop equipment without proper eye protection. It was MISERABLE!!!! two weeks with a patch on my eye then three weeks at home with the blinds closed due to light sensitivity. Doctor told me that I was very lucky to have recovered fully.
Since then I am a little OCD about protecting my eyes.
BTW: the dangerous piece of shop equipment that I was operating was a broom.
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That's scary! A BROOM!
I wore goggles, respirator, and a suit with a hoodie. I got that crap in my eye while showering! The water ran it right into my $&*#* eye!
Next time I'll keep my eyes closed until I let water run through my hair for a while.
Weird things like that are scary because they're unpredictable and uncontrollable. Like when my friend's dad visited, picked up his son's brand new Walther to admire it, and cranked a 9mm fmj through his son's chest. Friend survived-after coding on the table and having about 70% of his blood replaced. And having his spleen turned into sauerkraut.
He now has two birthdays.
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06-25-2019, 05:24 PM
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#111
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 478
Year: 2004
Engine: 7.3L Navistar T444e Diesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HazMatt
What sort of fuses are you accustomed to?
I gotta figure you've got blade-type fuses in your bus, so; looking at the housing from the blades' wide side, you'll see an, "S" shaped wire.
If you're seeing a, "Z" shape, flip it around...
If there's a break, its typically in the 'descending' cross piece, meaning its blowed up. Very rare for the burn out to occur on the top/bottom bars, but confirm, all the same.
Some of the micro blade fuses are opaque. Just it hold up to a decent light to determine condition.
If you don't have a fuse puller in the fuse box, some needlenose pliers or a Leatherman will do nicely for removal/replacement.
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The fuses are like larger versions of regular ones, but not transparent. They have a colored line at the end. Maybe that goes away when blown?
Ill post a picture when I can get back to it.
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06-25-2019, 06:04 PM
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#112
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 478
Year: 2004
Engine: 7.3L Navistar T444e Diesel
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So I figured out the problem...
I disconnected the wires from the contraption above the dash while removing the panel, and it, well, broke the circuit, thus disabling the lights:
Using a picture I took before pulling the wires, I reconnected them. Then, using a circuit-tester contraption, I found which ones were the blinkers and brakes.
The left turn signal for the rear was not working, so I spliced the wires together temporarily. Now the left rear turn signal works! YAYYYYY!
I dropped my glasses and squatted to pick them up. Upon rising, a sharp screw that was sticking out of a panel caught me on the left butt-cheek and gashed me. This was rather unpleasant, as it not only tore through my shorts and underwear, but also into my left buttock.
Yes, screwed in the...
Never mind.
Anyway...
Following this, since the voltage tester is sort of like an ice-pick, I stabbed myself in the right thigh 27 times to alleviate the frustration.
And so forth...
The box seems to be some kind of useless tester thing that can be bypassed, because it doesn't ever light up anyway, so I'm thinking of just connecting those wires without that ^*%^$% box. I can always use the box to distract zombies by throwing it at them.
Here is a picture of the insane wiring harnesses going the length of the bus.
What in the name of Craxton the Troll Hunter are all those wires for?!?!?!?!
Are they for all the seizure-inducing flashers on top/rear of the bus?
Can I just remove that stuff and run simple wiring to the brake/turn signal lights?
Also, anyone know where the horn is on this thing? Been trying to find it and can't. It's driving me up the wall.
I want to install the OOGA horn I have in it's place. I know it's a bit early, but sometimes simple pleasures inspire us to climb that difficult mountain and fulfill our dream of crushing the evil wizard's head in with a mace.
Thank you!
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06-26-2019, 09:55 AM
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#113
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 478
Year: 2004
Engine: 7.3L Navistar T444e Diesel
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Has anyone removed all the extra wiring that goes to the back of the bus?
I have a huge amount of wires going along the interior, on both sides, as seen above, but the only useful items I can think of in the back are the turn and brake lights. Seems like those wires are for the flashers, which will be taken out, and maybe the AC, which I tore out already.
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06-26-2019, 10:03 AM
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#114
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe45
Has anyone removed all the extra wiring that goes to the back of the bus?
I have a huge amount of wires going along the interior, on both sides, as seen above, but the only useful items I can think of in the back are the turn and brake lights. Seems like those wires are for the flashers, which will be taken out, and maybe the AC, which I tore out already.
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I have an RE so I probably have more wires going to the back.
I was able to identify and remove over half of them. I did not remove any that I could not identify.
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06-26-2019, 10:17 AM
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#115
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 478
Year: 2004
Engine: 7.3L Navistar T444e Diesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve
I have an RE so I probably have more wires going to the back.
Thanks.
I was able to identify and remove over half of them. I did not remove any that I could not identify.
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I guess at least the ones going to the flashers can be taken out.
For safety, I'll label the ends just in case. That way it will be easy to ID and reconnect if necessary.
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06-26-2019, 10:34 AM
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#116
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe45
I guess at least the ones going to the flashers can be taken out.
For safety, I'll label the ends just in case. That way it will be easy to ID and reconnect if necessary.
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Good idea. Take your time and document all the way.
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06-26-2019, 10:40 AM
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#117
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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A lot of those wires are for marker lights all around the bus, you'll want to keep those, some are speaker wires, license plate light, etc. On the Genesis the wires have numbers, so they are easy to trace to the rear after diagnosing what it is for.
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06-29-2019, 01:25 AM
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#118
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 478
Year: 2004
Engine: 7.3L Navistar T444e Diesel
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The head mechanic at the school district where I work looked at the bus. Said it's in great shape.
The engine turns out to be the middle one I think. Not the 175hp, but the 195 I believe. He said there's some things that can be done to it that will make a big difference in power without adversely affecting it. That's great, because the bus is so slow right now that sometimes I consider getting out and walking!
He noted that the bus has three new 8D batteries, which are supposedly very good. It has two on the driver side, and another on the passenger which was attached to the lift (which I sold for $200). When I disconnected that one battery, the alternator started to act weird, so I'll reconnect it as soon as I trace down and remove the positive cable that led to the lift. Don't want to cause a short or a fire!
Considering a couple more of the 8Ds for solar, once I get to that bridge!
I have removed all but one of the tie down rails on the floor. The last ones have been a NIGHTMARE because some of the bolts are inaccessible because of the fuel tank, tires, or battery box. I've been using a grinder with a cutoff wheel to dice up the rails where the bolts are, and it takes multiple passes and sometimes a small sledge to break them free. Holy cow what a pain!!!
Once I get the last ten bolts out, I can remove the floor and actually start moving forward. Those rails put me about two weeks behind schedule!!!
Mechanic said the reason it overheated was because the fan clutch is bad. It's actually almost free turning by hand!
Gonna have to order one. Also, going to replace the muffler with a standard one, as he thinks the stock one is clogged.
Considering routing the exhaust out the side and up like an 18 wheeler. Anyone ever done that?
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06-29-2019, 05:36 AM
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#119
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: E Central Tejas
Posts: 2,094
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH 3800, 8 window
Engine: T444E w/ Spicer 5-speed MT
Rated Cap: I prefer broad-brims hats
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__________________
Those who say that it cannot be done should not interrupt the people doing it.
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06-29-2019, 09:51 AM
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#120
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 478
Year: 2004
Engine: 7.3L Navistar T444e Diesel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe45
The fuses are like larger versions of regular ones, but not transparent. They have a colored line at the end. Maybe that goes away when blown?
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Not fuses.
Breakers.
The colored tab pops out when one is thrown.
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