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Old 09-18-2016, 08:02 AM   #91
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Originally Posted by Justin McCormick View Post
Awesome, thanks! What kind of heaters are they?

**update** I just looked at the pictures of your bus on your build thread. They look like they might be in better shape then mine. I am certainly interested. If you will stash them for me I can drive out and when I pick them up I can lend a hand on your bus for an afternoon.
Sorry for the delayed response Justin, I just now saw this. I'm not sure who the manufacture is but I'll take pics next Saturday when I go work on it again. The are in great shape as the top fins has a protective cover over it. I'll keep them in storage for you as long as you need.
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:19 AM   #92
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Great job pulling up your floors. You're lucky yours are nailed down. Mine are all screwed down with 1/2" wood screws, which are mostly frozen in place so I have to cut around each screw just to get my plywood out, and then angle grind the screw off at floor level. Major pain in the arse.
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:40 AM   #93
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Originally Posted by FlyboyHPD View Post
Great job pulling up your floors. You're lucky yours are nailed down. Mine are all screwed down with 1/2" wood screws, which are mostly frozen in place so I have to cut around each screw just to get my plywood out, and then angle grind the screw off at floor level. Major pain in the arse.
Dang!!! That sucks. That probably slows things down. Thanks for holding on to the heaters, I am still working out placement, but if I am going to bother replacing the heater hose I might as well throw a couple into the floor plan.


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Originally Posted by superdave View Post
check ebay for heater hose, i got 100 feet of 3/4 for 90 bucks delivered.it had 1" but with the pump its big enough. i ran my hose under also. great job on your build
Thanks! ebay is a good idea. 90 bucks is a great deal.
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Old 09-18-2016, 11:54 AM   #94
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you want to use 1" for your main heater feed lines, then most smaller heaters that are purchased will use 5/8.. I boight some 1" to 5/8" adapters.. even with the pump you will find you need more heat than you think you do..

1" heater line is sold at almost every NAPA store.. I bought a bunch of it as I replaced alot of heater line in my bus...

-Christopher
i disagree, i went thru a snowstorm in west virginia last feb in my 32' rear engine bus on my way to IL. with no problems, hoses were screaming hot. as far as napa, you will pay 3 times what you would pay on line for good quality hose. 3/4 is the way to go, imo.
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Old 09-18-2016, 01:32 PM   #95
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3/4 or 1 inch all depends on how many heaters you are driving with it... screaming hot feed hoses mean nothing... heater core and air temperature means all... i want to be WARM!! so I have a bunch of heaters in my bus... havent had it through the winter yet.. but if Im out in 0 degree weather i want to be inside with my coat on a seat somewhere not on me..

-Christopher
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Old 09-18-2016, 02:34 PM   #96
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I would like to comment on the heater hose subject and I do have opinions on sizing but to each his own?
My comment will be on the type of tubing,piping that is chosen?
For anything hot water the tubing piping will,is going to flex and move!
As the water and piping heat up it will expand and as it cools down it will contract.
Any point of contact with anything eventually will rub through and the type of piping material used will decide how long until it happens.
I do a lot of high temp. Hot water work and have even sch.80 steel pipe move concrete (underground steam 220 minimum) (close to the same temp. As a bus starting to overheat) because of no room to expand. In my world we add expansion loops or joints.
Running heater hoses underside is a good idea cause they are always replaceable/maintaneable but an extra foot in a loop just underside before your heater connection to me is a good idea ?
For the ones interested in the radiant heated flooring idea in a skoolie I can only give my idea if I went that direction? (I have done several radiant flooring in a commercial construction world where all is buried in concrete and can't move) so immediately after leaving the concrete slab I have learned to give the piping room to expand and contract.
Not trying to scare anyone but I could reccomend using 2" foam board, carve your pipe size channels into the top inch? Of your foam board, lay you tubing with no joint's if possible, a 1/4" underlayment or foam board then finished flooring and before you cover your tubing stretch a tape and take a picture of your tubing layout for when you need to screw,anchor,drill a hole later.
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Old 09-18-2016, 04:54 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
I would like to comment on the heater hose subject and I do have opinions on sizing but to each his own?
My comment will be on the type of tubing,piping that is chosen?
For anything hot water the tubing piping will,is going to flex and move!
As the water and piping heat up it will expand and as it cools down it will contract.
Any point of contact with anything eventually will rub through and the type of piping material used will decide how long until it happens.
I do a lot of high temp. Hot water work and have even sch.80 steel pipe move concrete (underground steam 220 minimum) (close to the same temp. As a bus starting to overheat) because of no room to expand. In my world we add expansion loops or joints.
Running heater hoses underside is a good idea cause they are always replaceable/maintaneable but an extra foot in a loop just underside before your heater connection to me is a good idea ?
For the ones interested in the radiant heated flooring idea in a skoolie I can only give my idea if I went that direction? (I have done several radiant flooring in a commercial construction world where all is buried in concrete and can't move) so immediately after leaving the concrete slab I have learned to give the piping room to expand and contract.
Not trying to scare anyone but I could reccomend using 2" foam board, carve your pipe size channels into the top inch? Of your foam board, lay you tubing with no joint's if possible, a 1/4" underlayment or foam board then finished flooring and before you cover your tubing stretch a tape and take a picture of your tubing layout for when you need to screw,anchor,drill a hole later.
for floor heating foam board is a bad idea, it wont pul the heat out of the tube. read this http://www.warmboard.com/warmboard-r
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:43 AM   #98
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Latest video, mostly of tearing up the floor.

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Old 09-19-2016, 11:31 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin McCormick View Post
Latest video, mostly of tearing up the floor.

@ 4:39 you have my empathies!!!!!!

BTW, you remind me of my favorite college roommate, looks, mannerisms, body language, the whole nine yards!

At least your floors came up without too much of a fight. Mine took me five weeks of fighting before I was successful..........
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Old 09-20-2016, 04:08 PM   #100
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I meant to post this picture sooner, but this was from the end of the day Sunday, after getting all the wood up. I was relived and happy to see it was very clean metal.
I still have a piece of wood under the drivers seat, and the front dash. I have a feeling that its going to be tricky getting out.
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