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Old 09-08-2016, 01:15 PM   #61
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Thats a good point, I did not think of that. I wonder if insulting them would be enough in temperatures slightly below freezing?
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Old 09-08-2016, 01:22 PM   #62
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and "you smell of elderberries" Great, I will give it a try.
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Old 09-08-2016, 01:27 PM   #63
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I suppose that insulating them may be ok as long as you're not in a deep freeze area. I'll be placing our fresh water tank under our bed inside the bus so I don't have to worry about it. Our gray tank will be outside but we don't plan to ever be in freezing temps so not having to worry about that either.
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Old 09-08-2016, 02:59 PM   #64
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:20 PM   #65
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How much was the tow to the shop?
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:26 PM   #66
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It was around $400. Which I hated paying, but I worked it into the cost of the bus purchase. Also we had it towed a bit further so it was delivered to a Mechanic I trusted and was giving us a good deal.
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:30 PM   #67
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It was around $400. Which I hated paying, but I worked it into the cost of the bus purchase. Also we had it towed a bit further so it was delivered to a Mechanic I trusted and was giving us a good deal.
I was guessing in the $500 range. That's not that bad.

What was wrong with it? Did you buy it off govdeals?

thanks
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:41 PM   #68
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I used a local online auction site https://www.renebates.com/

The batteries where dead, and the timing cover gasket was leaking. There was also some wiring issues and some leaky power steering hoses. We ended up winning the auction somewhat unexpectedly and suddenly had to deal with moving the bus.

I was too unsure of the long range driving condition of the bus and did not want to damage the engine putting too many miles on it without being worked on first. And then there was the registration and insurance issues that I simply avoided by towing it.

I called around to different towing companies and got a very wide range of quotes, all the way up to $900. When we found one for $400.00 we decided to go with it.
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Old 09-11-2016, 08:59 AM   #69
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There are many positives for a mid-door like you are planning. I'm still on the fence. With a front (original location) door the driver area is already taking up space so leaving the door there is good and not taking up valuable space elsewhere. Moving the door mid-bus like you are planning is also good. My wife (co-pilot) can sit up front next to me and you don't have to walk the entire length of the bus to exit. I still can't decide. Good luck with your build. Lucky to find another place to keep/ work on your bus!
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Old 09-11-2016, 10:47 AM   #70
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I used a local online auction site https://www.renebates.com/

The batteries where dead, and the timing cover gasket was leaking. There was also some wiring issues and some leaky power steering hoses. We ended up winning the auction somewhat unexpectedly and suddenly had to deal with moving the bus.

I was too unsure of the long range driving condition of the bus and did not want to damage the engine putting too many miles on it without being worked on first. And then there was the registration and insurance issues that I simply avoided by towing it.

I called around to different towing companies and got a very wide range of quotes, all the way up to $900. When we found one for $400.00 we decided to go with it.
Thanks for the info!

I also approve of the door being moved, like Superduty. I wouldn't know what to do if my wife didn't tell me how to drive. So she needs to be sitting next to me.
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Old 09-12-2016, 01:18 PM   #71
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Got some more stuff done this weekend. We got all the heater hoses up and out.
How easy is it to replace the top part of a seat heater? mine looks really banged up.



It all went well with no major spills. We are planning on keeping both heaters, but I will move the back one closer up. Has anyone had any issues keeping the stock School Bus heating system?







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Old 09-12-2016, 01:27 PM   #72
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you can likely straighten the fins on that with a coil brush.. wear gloves when you use one and go slow.. the copper tubes donty look smacked on it.. you can look for greenish corriosion on the copper which would inficate leaks.. but if there is none.. straighten the fins and re-use that coil no issues..

I have these..

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...pGYaAjlJ8P8HAQ

I use them regularly on A/C coils..
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Old 09-12-2016, 01:29 PM   #73
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Good continued progress Justin. I plan on taking my heaters out next weekend. I do not plan to use them so if you need a spare one just let me know. I'll put them in storage for anyone who wants them.
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Old 09-12-2016, 01:30 PM   #74
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you can likely straighten the fins on that with a coil brush.. wear gloves when you use one and go slow.. the copper tubes donty look smacked on it.. you can look for greenish corriosion on the copper which would inficate leaks.. but if there is none.. straighten the fins and re-use that coil no issues..

I have these..

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...pGYaAjlJ8P8HAQ

I use them regularly on A/C coils..
-Christopher
Perfect, thanks, I will try doing that!
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Old 09-12-2016, 01:31 PM   #75
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Good continued progress Justin. I plan on taking my heaters out next weekend. I do not plan to use them so if you need a spare one just let me know. I'll put them in storage for anyone who wants them.
Awesome, thanks! What kind of heaters are they?

**update** I just looked at the pictures of your bus on your build thread. They look like they might be in better shape then mine. I am certainly interested. If you will stash them for me I can drive out and when I pick them up I can lend a hand on your bus for an afternoon.
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Old 09-12-2016, 01:38 PM   #76
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I should add that you *CAN* replace those heaters with OEM new ones... most of them are Bergstrom and that compasny still exists under a new name..

*BUT*

bus heaters are nothing special.. they are simply coolant loop heaters with a coil and a fan.. so any heater will work.. and there are lots of cheap ones at Jegs and summit racing... made for classic hotrod conversions.. however the only difference is usually 5/8 lines vs 1" and there are adapters sold for that...

a couple smaller heaters placed in inconspicuous places like inside or under a cabinet in your bus would make for nice heat distribution and less clunky than the big under-seat units...

I completely Gutted the heaters inside my driver console because they were a nasty mess.. I had enough room to put in a new defrost heater and also a dashboard Heater with A/C all in the original space..

-Christopher
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Old 09-13-2016, 11:39 AM   #77
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I should add that you *CAN* replace those heaters with OEM new ones... most of them are Bergstrom and that compasny still exists under a new name..

*BUT*

bus heaters are nothing special.. they are simply coolant loop heaters with a coil and a fan.. so any heater will work.. and there are lots of cheap ones at Jegs and summit racing... made for classic hotrod conversions.. however the only difference is usually 5/8 lines vs 1" and there are adapters sold for that...

a couple smaller heaters placed in inconspicuous places like inside or under a cabinet in your bus would make for nice heat distribution and less clunky than the big under-seat units...

I completely Gutted the heaters inside my driver console because they were a nasty mess.. I had enough room to put in a new defrost heater and also a dashboard Heater with A/C all in the original space..

-Christopher
Awesome, thanks for the info. What sort of defrost heater did you put in the dash?
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Old 09-13-2016, 11:58 AM   #78
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I bought a heat only unit from proAir LLC... it stands up vertically inside the driver heater box.. then I used automotive flex dict and tied it into the OEM defroster vents..

I had taken my driver heater console out and Gutted it completely.. I placed a pic but you can really only see the combo Heater and A/C unit (on the left).. my heat only for the defroster stands up on the right side of the box.. I was able to connect its intake to the OEM outside fresh air intake so the defroster gets fresh instead of recirc air....

others are made by red-dot, transair, and then jegs and summit sell heat only units you could leverage for the defrosters.. the OEM vents on my bus are placed decently so I left them intact and just replaced the heater itself..



-Christopher
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Old 09-13-2016, 12:30 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
I bought a heat only unit from proAir LLC... it stands up vertically inside the driver heater box.. then I used automotive flex dict and tied it into the OEM defroster vents..

I had taken my driver heater console out and Gutted it completely.. I placed a pic but you can really only see the combo Heater and A/C unit (on the left).. my heat only for the defroster stands up on the right side of the box.. I was able to connect its intake to the OEM outside fresh air intake so the defroster gets fresh instead of recirc air....

others are made by red-dot, transair, and then jegs and summit sell heat only units you could leverage for the defrosters.. the OEM vents on my bus are placed decently so I left them intact and just replaced the heater itself..


-Christopher
Cool, I appreciate the follow up and picture. That is a nice set up.

I think the defroster on mine is still in good shape, buuuuuuuut do I spend the money to run 60 feet (aprox) of heater hose to connect it back up? Besides the high price of the hose, I worry about constructing the floor plan over the heater hose. I have heard that they should be replaced every 3-4 years. This is a draw back of a rear engine bus I suppose.
I might be further ahead installing a defrost heater that is not run of the engine coolant.
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Old 09-13-2016, 12:48 PM   #80
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Justin,

I've spent the $170 to relocate my heater hose to below the floorboards and am re-routing the front heater to go straight down from the heater core to the new hose below the floor via new galvanized steel pipes. I'm connecting the under-seat heaters (2) the same way - through the floorboards - and also connecting my Webasto heater to the system in such a way as to have the option to isolate the engine when we're boon-docking, but open the system when it's cold and need to warm the engine up before starting.

I'll have that system going later this fall. Right now it's too hot to work on the electrical system during my mid-day breaks. I'll post my progress on my thread (hopefully in time to help you with your bus) as conditions allow.

M
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