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Old 07-14-2005, 02:06 PM   #11
Bus Nut
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Grundy, Virginia
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Year: 1985
Coachwork: ThomasBuilt
Chassis: International Harvester S-1700
Engine: 9L IHC V-8 Diesel 180HP
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Well, it went just marginally successfully. Apparently the door lock mechanism parts inside the door are positioned slightly differently than yours, a little lower, because I couldn't get it mounted right up next to the bottom of the locking mechanism. Or maybe my deadbolt is just shorter. When it is fully extended, my deadbolt only engages the throw-bolt on the door lock by about 1/8". I don't think it would deter anyone who put some muscle behind it.

On the other hand, a brick would get you in a whole lot quicker! Maybe just the sight of both a deadbolt and a padlock will deter the casual, opportunistic thief (or the lazy crackhead). You're right about the ultimate effectiveness of any locking system in a house thats surface area is about 25% glass. Locks will only deter the undetermined.
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Old 07-19-2005, 12:35 AM   #12
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Low Desert Mountains, So. California
Posts: 111

Pleeeesssseeee don't tell me that even though the paint is fading fast on TCD that I"ll have to sand the ENTIRE bus just to paint it. *faints*
Isn't a good washing good enough?


Anyway, with the dry heat we are having the rusty floor is slower in rusting. I"m going to be doing bondo in several places were water apparently just sat rusting away at the metal. Some spots are pitted-is bondo gonna be ok there?

I know, I know, I need to get pix up so you all can see
'Before you go out seeking revenge you must first dig two holes'--Chinese Proverb
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Old 07-19-2005, 02:03 PM   #13
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Location: near flint michigan
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As far as sanding.....

IT IS REQUIRED for the primer/paint to adhere properly to the surface. You'll have to re-paint every year most likely if you don't do the sanding.

You do not have to sand the paint off of the bus, that's not the idea. You just need to scuff it up a bit. I like 180 gritt for this operation. You can use a cheap electric sander, or just a manual sanding block (this can be as simple as short piece of 1x4 with sand paper wrapped around it)

even sanding by hand, if you start at 8 am, you should be finished by noon if you were doing the project all by yourself. After you sand, take some shop rags (even good heavy duty lint free paper towells work) and wipe the entire bus down with mineral spirits soaked raggs. You might have to do it twice to get nearly all of the paint residue off of the bus.

Now you're ready to prime (assuming there are no dents/rust holes ect to fix)

if you're not painting the same day, you'll have to re-wipe the bus down with mineral spirits before applying the primer.

it's really pretty straight foward
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Old 07-19-2005, 08:07 PM   #14
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Gray or purple 3M abrasive pads work great for scuffing. You need to scuff the old paint for the new paint to bite into the old and bond. Otherwise the new just lays on top and eventually chips and flakes off. A little elbow grease now will save a lot of sanding and repainting later.

I learned this lesson the hard way by painting stock cars over the old factory paint. Lucky for me that my cars just get smashed anyway so a good finish doesn't have to last. Since I've been scuffing my cars good before painting I've never had the new paint come off unless every layer comes off down to the metal.
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