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Old 08-02-2015, 04:33 PM   #41
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Location: Andrews,Indiana
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You could mount it as I did my fridge. Build a cabinet above it,attached to the ceiling, but not attached to the cabinet. (protect the top with felt where it touches) That would keep it from tilting in any direction. Then, since it has legs, build another storage area underneath that is bolted to the floor, again touching but not attached to the cabinet. The upper keeps it from tilting, the lower keeps it from sliding.
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:14 PM   #42
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The thing is, this possibly is being held together by 6 (3 on each side) long rods that go from front thru the back with wing nuts holding it tight. The bottom of the cabinet rests on one set & one shelf rest on another set inside. The last shelf, most likely did too but had solid wood added to the side of the shelf about 6 inches high which at first glance is part of the actual cabinet. Evidently someone thru the years wanted the bottom shelf lower than the rod was. I plan to have Clint make another shelf and do the same with it stacking it on top of the bottom shelf and again with the shelf that now rests on the rods eliminating the rods altogether for holding shelves but now putting all the weight on the bottom rods holding the bottom.Despite the rods it appears to be very stable and held together well but I know that vibration can play havoc on it.

I have all intentions of putting anything heavy on the bottom of the cabinet and go with lighter things the higher I go with it.

Our first thought was on the lines of what Nat said, but when we discovered that the rods were more than shelf holders we started thinking about other ways of securing, hence my call out to you folks.

I just thought about seeing just how the legs are held on. Maybe by eliminating the legs and having it sit on a raised platform it would lower the center of gravity on it and we could strap it to the window edges. Well, curiosity got the best of me. Nay to removing legs. They are the corner post to the whole cabinet.

On second examination, if we strapped it right below the drawers we could just secure it to the windows & not have to deal with removing or even opening up the raceway (as it's already painted & not sure what separating it from the bus would do to the paint.)

I'm liking a combination of Claybal, Somewhere & Jolly Rogers ideas mixed with our own. I love using a leather strap (would blend in more with the look of it), and I want to see if we can secure it below the drawers to the window frame. Instead of angle irons I like building a "fake" base for it keeping the legs as they are and also would provide support for the shelves since I want to eliminate using the rods for shelf holders and hide the bins I am planning on putting under there.

Thanks for everyones input, please continue with ideas cause as I've told Clint when he complains of me making changes "Until its secured to the bus, changes are likely."
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:27 PM   #43
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You could also use some nut-serts in the raceway cover and
then use bolts to secure any brackets or straps to secure the
top of the cabinet.
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:30 PM   #44
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What are NUT-SERTS?
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:52 PM   #45
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I'm a big fan of straps. A cam-lock style could work well here; a nylon strap wouldn't be awful but like others said a leather strap might look nice. If you have any flexibility as to exactly where the piece will be positioned, and if there are any screws already holding the wall together, you could remove those screws, place the strap under, and re-install to anchor the strap ends. With the nylon or the leather and some appropriate hardware, you could customize the strap to be just the right length and not have any kind of buckle joining the two sides of strap together.
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Old 08-02-2015, 11:27 PM   #46
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Nut-Serts = Wonderful!
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Old 08-03-2015, 06:56 AM   #47
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They make your breath minty fresh.
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Old 08-03-2015, 04:52 PM   #48
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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Nut-serts are like a threaded pop-rivet. You drill a fairly
large hole in the sheet metal and insert the nut-sert and
then you can use the nut- sert tool to expand the sert on
the back side of the metal which then secures it in the
hole. Now you have a threaded hole to put a bolt in. They
use them a lot when installing extended mirrors on pickup
trucks. By the way you can by pass the tool and use a bolt
a nut and a couple of washers to set the nut-sert. HTH
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Old 09-10-2015, 05:39 PM   #49
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Location: North Carolina
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Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Vista 3600
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I'm sure you've found them by now but just for reference:
They're basically threaded rivets.
Generic 100 Mixed Pack Threaded Rivet Nut Inserts M4.M5. M6. M8.each 25pcs: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Example install tools (both simple threaded rivet and "Nutsert" variety):
Surebonder 8510 6-32, 8-32, 10-24, 10-32, 1/4-20 Threaded Insert Tool - Solid Rivets - Amazon.com
Amazon.com: Nutsert Tool Kit In Metal Case: Automotive

I've used these for some small projects like aluminum can alcohol stoves. Cant really swear to their load bearing capacity though.

I also wanted to just express what i would try in your situation. (and was looking for an applicable case to start learning to use SketchUp with, so thanks!)

I'd personally look to build a lower cabinet with a wider front face that would pin the bottom in place. then the idea of a top strap is pretty nice, but if the cabinet was fragile or i wanted to absolutely make sure it could not move, i would build some bracing on the sides to pin it side-to-side and provide a better path for the strap to go around the top.

i put together some renderings for this and tried to upload them with the post but no matter what i do the upload fails... (yes they're under 2MB and 1600pixels a side)
Oh well, lets try linking then:

Overall view:


Bottom Detail:


Top Details:



you can secure the upper arms to the backstrap pretty easily using a pocket-hole jig like below:
Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jig System - - Amazon.com
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Old 09-11-2015, 03:46 AM   #50
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Wow.

Great job on the detail and idea's.

Nat
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