The Broccoli Bus

[aaronsb]

It's been hard to get motivated the last week or so. With only 8 hours of daylight it's just always dark outside when I have time to work on the bus.

I spent some time finishing up some other stuff, in this case the engine hatch seal and latches. So now that's all put back together again. I tossed the battery charger on the batteries again too. They were sitting at about 12.3 volts, the charger says "80%" but I'm not sure what that really means.

Anyone with a drivable bus want to come visit? I'll supply snacks, beer and a bunch of kids. Free unimog rides! It would be fun to fill my neighborhood with some busses so I can regain that urgency to keep working.

[EastCoastCB]

what state?

[aaronsb]

Seattle, Washington. (OK well just outside Seattle)

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

what state?

[MuddaEarth]

I hear you...These long, dark winter months definitely suck the motivation right out of us. It does make plenty of time for skoolie research though!! You've done some really nice work on your bus....Thanks for sharing!

[aaronsb]

Got the bunk frames sanded, painted, holes drilled, and installed. The real story that you don't see all the parts to is the mounting on the bus itself. I had to take apart the insulation and install the brackets with uhmw plastic bushings to keep as much of the thermal break intact as I could.

The pivoting bed frames are sanded and primed, I just need to paint them and install now.

Next I'll build the pivoting frame for the master bedroom, and probably start on some partition walls.

I've ordered ABS plastic sheet for the interior sheathing, that's supposed to be delivered in about 10 business days.

[Hex]

Wow ... Those bunks look fantastic. I really don't know what else to say, they're great!

[aaronsb]

Thanks, I'm looking forward to getting all the components together so I can start building the bedroom and other rooms.

The paint turned out surprisingly nice, considering what I used. I think I'll use this paint setup for all the interior metal components and frames.

Primer:

Rustoleum etching green primer on lightly scuffed clean and dry steel (no previous paint)

Super cheap "euro gray" finish:

1 quart rustoleum gloss white
1 quart rustoleum gloss gray
1 quart virgin lacquer thinner

Mix with a paint stirring stick in a gallon can

Use a touch up gun: http://www.harborfreight.com/touch-u...gun-66871.html

Set to a fan that's just wide enough to shoot the parts. Air pressure about 80 psi.

I was spraying in absolutely horrible conditions: near 100 % humidity, and cold, probably 60 F or less.

Turn up heat and let it dry for 24 hours.

The finish turned out as good as factory purchased furniture frames.

One thing that's neat about those little touch up guns like that is they don't let the VOC escape, so you can do tricks like fill it full of slightly reduced contact cement for assembling panels and other things that need gluing.

It'll sit around forever (days) and not dry out. Obviously, that won't work with a catalyzed material.

Originally Posted by Hex

Wow ... Those bunks look fantastic. I really don't know
what else to say, they're great!

[bansil]

Okay, forget all previous plans,

Next update shall include a periscope and some cool switches, knobs and glowing/flashing red lights...oh!
And

A button to push that says " shush......depth charges, Sir"

[aaronsb]

So the bunks are in, I knew it was going to be a tight squeeze when the beds are "deployed", and I'm fine with the space. The "squeezeway" is 16" wide - taking into consideration wall thickness and providing a 32" wide bath/shower)

It doesn't feel super tight since you're scooting along bunks and not squeezed between two walls. The entry to the shower and toilet are sliding pocket doors.

When the beds are folded up, it's a dance floor. (ok, so it's really about 56", or about 53" when the folding desks are closed up, with the bunks closed)

Any opinions or thoughts on layout at this point?

[EastCoastCB]

Very nice fabricating

[cowlitzcoach]

Looking GREAT!

I know you haven't installed any windows yet and I understand why.

It will be interesting to see what it will look like with the windows and the walls for the bathroom installed.

[Tango]

Terrific design, outstanding fabrication! Keep up the good work...and pix.

[Vlad]

Looks good.

16" is not very much to play with, no room for any error. You have to make sure all dimensions work for you and work well, not like "I will squeeze in... I just need to exhale a bit more ".

I go to closest RV lot to measure and try things on regular basis ;). Skoolies are great but 8' width limit is making conversion much harder, this is why I decided to build slide outs. The biggest challenge is a common room area, especially if you are planning to stay/live in your bus for extended periods and not just a week ends. In my case our living room/common area will be 13' long by 14' wide.

I noticed You still have original heating hoses laying around. Why don't you put them under the floor? Also you can use pex pipes instead of original rubber ones. I will use 1" pex for long runs and few feet of good rubber hoses near the engine.

[Malkieri]

I'm sure you have something figured out, but if not....What are you planning for emergency escapes for the rear bedroom and those bunks? I am thinking a 16" hallway to safety is a bit narrow in a panic type situation.

[aaronsb]

Vlad, those are some good callouts. The bunks when closed become a secondary common area, in addition to the front section that has seating when riding down the road.

The narrow gap between the open beds and the bath/shower enclosures is tight, but since it actually intrudes only where the bunks are at, and it's not a full other wall, it doesn't feel bad.

The folding bunks are intended to be only for sleeping, so going to pee at 3 am might be tight.

As for the heating hose, I simply have not dealt with it yet, instead I wanted to ensure the bus remained functional while I work on it. It would be fairly easy to dive it all under the deck, especially since it already does that under the emergency door.

Another reason I left the hose in the vehicle because I am considering using a hydronic diesel heater in the coolant loop, and it would be very easy to tap in some heater cores for warming the vehicle that way. I think once enclosures are built, it would be more serviceable sitting under the deck than wedged in the cabin.

Originally Posted by Vlad

Looks good.

16" is not very much to play with, no room for any error. You have to make sure all dimensions work for you and work well, not like "I will squeeze in... I just need to exhale a bit more ".

I go to closest RV lot to measure and try things on regular basis ;). Skoolies are great but 8' width limit is making conversion much harder, this is why I decided to build slide outs. The biggest challenge is a common room area, especially if you are planning to stay/live in your bus for extended periods and not just a week ends. In my case our living room/common area will be 13' long by 14' wide.

I noticed You still have original heating hoses laying around. Why don't you put them under the floor? Also you can use pex pipes instead of original rubber ones. I will use 1" pex for long runs and few feet of good rubber hoses near the engine.

[aaronsb]

There are five emergency exits on the bus. One is approximately centered between the two bunk sets on the wall opposite of them. The bathroom will incorporate use of that emergency exit.

The second is on the same wall as the bunks, just adjacent to them to the rear.

The third is the rear window, so the adult bedroom.

Fourth and fifth are the roof hatches. The rear roof hatch is accessible from the bunks, and standing on the upper bed allows egress from the rear roof hatch.

Originally Posted by Malkieri

I'm sure you have something figured out, but if not....What are you planning for emergency escapes for the rear bedroom and those bunks? I am thinking a 16" hallway to safety is a bit narrow in a panic type situation.

[Vlad]

There would be good to know about emergency exits requirements for RV(law, guidelines.... common sense...). The original bus is meant to carry 80+ people and original emergency exit arrangement is an overkill.

We change windows, doors, add partition walls, appliances. What if the bus is on its side? will you be able to get out from any location outside? There will be many things to climb over and some might block your way.

The other way to look at this if you can't guarantee that you can get out from some locations in case the bus is on its side, then nobody get there while you drive. If you need to get there pull over and do it.


I did think about this issue because I don't have any original windows and doors in my bus. Also we need to think about having exits on both sides and roof just in case the bus is on its side....

What about having a "hammer" in certain locations. I did see this kinda emergency arrangement on some commercial passenger vehicles. RV windows are safety glass windows and easy and save to brake.

[aaronsb]

I spent some time with my wife this evening trying to fit the layout better, and I think we came up with one that works out really well.

The aisle with the bunks open is 24" wide all the way to the back.

This layout includes:
24" x24" footprints for rv style fridge, washer/dryer stack unit, dishwasher, and propane range

36"x36" footprint for a 32"x32" shower kit

26"x40" toilet room (natures head)

24"x36" vanity/sink alcove

2 basin kitchen sink in 24" deep countertop

a couple good storage spaces for bulk food items

lots of storage for clothes and whatever else

4 twin size beds (kids)
1 full size bed (us)

bunks convertible to common area for dinner, activities, and whatever else.

seating for 4 adults in two rows on right side
seating for 2 adults on left side, driver (me) and wife (behind me)

I'm much happier with this configuration. Tomorrow I'll start drafting all the actual blocks out so I can get an accurate idea for materials. I am planning on fabricating all the framing from 3/4" and 1" thin wall cold roll steel square tube, and various welded sheetmetal gussets.

The partition walls will have bracing and foam inside, then skinned with abs plastic sheet that is blind riveted to the steel tube. I expect the thickest partition to be 1 - 1/8" thick.

Since I have a neat square tube bender, I might try my hand at some radius corners for the overhead storage cabinets. Honestly, I've been looking forward to that part.

Before skins go on, basic wiring and plumbing, but I plan on ensuring everything has removable access panels to get to things. It's not a house, and I don't plan on "entombing" service items like plumbing in inaccessible or hard to get locations.


Until I get annotated dimensional drawings made, I'll let you make a best guess as to what the hell all those tape lines are.

[ol trunt]

That's easy. Based on my recent experience with a plumber, the largest box is the outline of the access plate for a single micro switch! Yup, when you're right you're right! Jack

[thjakits]

...you are still good to do SLIDES!!

JUST DO IT!
(...nike)

thjakits