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Old 10-06-2014, 04:59 PM   #201
r_w
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Re: The Broccoli Bus

If you do use steel studs, get the good ones and not the ones from the big box stores. They are really thin and tend to melt away if they get any moisture.

The right wall construction really depends on what you need to hide in the wall. But you want to build them as thin as you can get away with just to maximize the space in the bus. Some of my walls will be cabinet grade plywood using C channel to hold it along the wall/ceiling. Thin as possible where you don't need to run power or water or need soundproofing. I might try two thinner pieces of ply held together with green glue to see if it would make a thin sound absorbing wall. Or rip 2x2 lathe (probably a 2x6 in thirds, whatever that end up being) so I can stuff the wall with sound insulation (cotton, wool, or rockwool--whichever I can find a deal on). Only if I need to hide plumbing, pocket doors, or electrical boxes will I have a full 2x4 wall.
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Old 10-06-2014, 06:31 PM   #202
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Re: The Broccoli Bus

I took a gamble and added a layer of solarflex 287 to the roof in early October.

The directions say not to apply if there is a chance of dew within 48 hours, so I have no idea why they would bother selling it in Washington state.

Anyway, it is 82 out today and while the days are shorter we are supposed to have dry weather until Friday.

Hopefully tomorrow it hasn't turned into a big runny mess. I've read some stories about it doing that.

Its currently 3:30 pm so a few more hours of direct sunlight.

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Old 10-06-2014, 08:16 PM   #203
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Re: The Broccoli Bus








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Old 10-07-2014, 12:57 AM   #204
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Re: The Broccoli Bus

Lookin' gooooood!
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Old 10-07-2014, 05:14 AM   #205
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Re: The Broccoli Bus

took 3 looks before I noticed difference in pictures
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Old 10-07-2014, 01:01 PM   #206
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next steps

So, after the exterior is properly prepared to resist the elements this winter, I'll of course be working on the interior. My thoughts were to first get the insulation installed, followed by walls and a proper floor. Then eventually a few windows.

Does anyone have suggestions or experience on how you have "future proofed" a vehicle build for planned installations, given a limited budget?

For example, I plan on adding significant solar capability to the vehicle in the future via large monocrystaline panels on the roof (the kind that can curve). I've been researching generators and their costs for an effective unit, and it seems like a much better idea to adapt a boondocking approach with a follow up of plug into a power panel. All these items mean a lot of cash, and if anyone has an approach that allows a "modular" addition of components, I'm all ears.

Here's a list of all the big dollar items:

Significant battery bank to draw from, probably two 24 volt banks of t-105 batteries, for 8 batteries in total
battery monitoring and watering system
inverter system
solar charge system
diesel furnace
split 48 volt aircon system
additional 48 volt alternator for maintaining banks when engine running
~10x 100 watt panels on roof, for up to 500 watts per battery bank capacity
small auxiliary generator, such as the 2000 watt honda inverter generator (I wish they made a diesel version!)
chest fridge
water tanks
propane tank(s)?
composting toilet
cooking aparatus (induction stovetop? propane range?)

To start with, I'd like to just plan on a 50 amp electrical service that needs to be plugged in. Literally some electric space heaters and a 12 volt led based illumination system.

As budget and time permits, I'd fill in the other components of the "master plan". By building with the steel frame construction and pre-allocating space for equipment, I think I can work around the major problems or refitting components later.

Anyway, just sort of thinking out loud.
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Old 10-07-2014, 02:06 PM   #207
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Re: The Broccoli Bus

Think really hard about 30 amp vs. 50 amp service. If you have that much battery you should be able to run 30 amp service, or even 15-20 amp most of the time. That will give you cheaper RV park rates, let you plug in to a normal plug at your or a friend's driveway, and plug into that Honda much easier.

LOVE the Honda, thought about getting a propane kit for it but I have the adapter to hook it up to a remote outboard boat tank. You need to change oil about the same time you need to fill the tank.

Run conduit chases and/or grommets in the roof bows for the panels to get down to the battery bank, plus small access panels inside anywhere you make the roof penetration for the cables. Or put it together so you only have to take a couple pieces off instead of all of them!!

Diesel furnace is $$$$$$$ unless you grab a deal somewhere. But they are fairly simple to hook up and flexible enough they aren't a huge deal.

If you go with a heat pump split system, it is a really good heater down to around freezing, so a furnace is only for COLD weather.

Chest freezer or fridge are easy as long as you bolt them down and can handle the footprint in your floorplan. I am thinking of one with formica glued on the lid to make it more counterspace.

Water tanks are a huge deal to work out--do you need them winterized? I am guessing so because of the diesel furnace. That pretty much means fresh tanks inside, so under the master bed is the usual place, or along the back wall under the cabinets. I plan to remove the rear heater(s) but continue to circulate coolant around those tanks to help heat them up in the winter (buy a box of new hose). I do have a heat exchanger I bought at a garage sale that I may purpose for this, perfect for an engine-driven hydronic heat system.

Composting toilets are $$$. You can build for the space you want for one and use a bucket toilet until then, or just do the bucket toilet.

How do you cook? Induction tops are easy to add later, they are counter top appliances--huge power draw so you need a big inverter to run it but if the batts are topped off you might as well use the free sun. Same goes for a toaster oven or convection/microwave. I will have a high BTU burner of some kind to boil water in a hurry, but the main cooking will be outside.
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Old 10-07-2014, 02:51 PM   #208
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Re: The Broccoli Bus

I am on the other side of this electrically

Since you have a fresh canvas do 50 amp from the get go

it barely costs extra maybe $100

I can use 120V 15/20/30/50 and also 240V w/50 so more options better

you need an electrical box to hold breakers (same)
breakers (same limit to 15 amps)
wire (same limit to 15 amps) 12ga wire is safe to 20 amps
so once you have the box mounted and 15 amp circuits run you are golden

what is difference in 30 and 50 amp service?

30 amp you have 2 light bulbs a fridge and small ac on

50 amp you have outside lights on, disco ball going, fridge, blender, microwave ,rotisserie, 2 fans and 2 heaters or AC on...plus hot water...all on at same time!!!

Party Time!!!!, Excellent!!



Seriously for the extra $5 at site (that's what we see) it's worth it to be able to do what ever you want

And seriously except for having to get 50 amp cord 25 ft at $90 VS 25 ft 30amp cord at $35 difference of $55
and
an adapter 50 amp to 30 amp $20
and
a 30 amp to 15 amp adapter $15

now we have and extra $55 + $20 + $15 = $90 more you have every option out there for pole power

stuff inside bus is the same, same number of outlets (you can add more now ), same size and amount of wiring (you will use more with extra outlets now ) and the extra breakers...because you can

see how my thinking works?


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Old 10-08-2014, 08:36 AM   #209
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Re: The Broccoli Bus

I see your point. For $100 more it makes sense.

I was focused on the solar. The price difference between 120 and 240 inverters is a lot more than $100. But you can wire it up so not everything runs from solar.
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Old 10-08-2014, 09:41 AM   #210
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Re: The Broccoli Bus

If you haven't done so already, study Handy Bob's blog.

http://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/
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