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Old 02-02-2015, 02:33 PM   #341
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Hell all I', leaving are the rear door, side door, main door, and two rv exit windows.
Its as easy or easier to get in and out of in a hurry than any other rv I know of.
The "Good News Bus" on YT got rid of all theirs I believe, except maybe a couple windows. That, in my opinion, is NOT a good idea at all.
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Old 02-02-2015, 02:39 PM   #342
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Yeah, I left all the original emergency exit points on the bus, it seems just like good sense, not to mention I can move stuff in and out a heck of a lot easier through those doors.

I like scrambling onto the roof from the bunks, it's not a safe place for kids to be up on the roof, but I enjoy being up there, it seems quieter. I like standing around on the roofs of houses for the same reason, it's like a hiding spot in plain sight.


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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Hell all I', leaving are the rear door, side door, main door, and two rv exit windows.
Its as easy or easier to get in and out of in a hurry than any other rv I know of.
The "Good News Bus" on YT got rid of all theirs I believe, except maybe a couple windows. That, in my opinion, is NOT a good idea at all.
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Old 02-02-2015, 02:39 PM   #343
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Like I said, I like your plan.

Your explanation of your emergency exits details what I can't see in your pictures. In one of the pictures it looked as if you had blocked off the rear emergency exit that now that I relooked I can see is not blocked off.

One never likes to think about what the worst could happen but one does need to make contingency plans for when the excrement hits the oscillator.
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Old 02-02-2015, 02:46 PM   #344
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This sounds uh, like a giant nerd fest idea here, but one of the plans I had was to use LED style rope light around the doors for indirect illumination when you open a door.

Normally, they just turn off and on with a white color with a regular switch when opening the door (like a car).

I was thinking of getting ones that were white/red where the red can be powered separately. The smoke and CO sensors, as well as a manual switch and a simple mechanical ball level switch (triggered at any angle more than 45 degrees) causes all the exit lighting to illuminate red, as well as kicking off a buzzer alarm (the fire alarm).

It sounds complex, but it's just a single emergency power circuit that doesn't consume power until it's switched on. The power wire for the emergency system is a loop, so you can cut it in one spot accidently and it stays powered.


Switch example:

http://www.amazon.com/Sensor-Module-...ds=tilt+switch


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Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach View Post
Like I said, I like your plan.

Your explanation of your emergency exits details what I can't see in your pictures. In one of the pictures it looked as if you had blocked off the rear emergency exit that now that I relooked I can see is not blocked off.

One never likes to think about what the worst could happen but one does need to make contingency plans for when the excrement hits the oscillator.
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Old 02-03-2015, 10:07 AM   #345
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Might have a trim ring... what size is your exit?
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:58 AM   #346
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Where'd you get your hat channels?

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Well, I'm no rocket surgeon.

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Old 02-15-2015, 02:07 PM   #347
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I don't see any hat channels there. That looks like square tubing stuck inside the support ribs.

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Old 02-15-2015, 03:20 PM   #348
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I don't see any hat channels there. That looks like square tubing stuck inside the support ribs.

Nat
I'm thinking he's either using hat channels around the outside between the original bow's that have been cut and separated or he's welded angle iron pieces to each side of the square tube riser sections making the flange to rivet the skin to.
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Old 02-15-2015, 08:31 PM   #349
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Here's a detail of how I inserted the rectangular tubing into the existing body hoops. The technique was to have the rectangular tubing extend as much as possible into the old structure, then set the flat bar shims in flush to keep everything snug. Once flatbar and square tubes are clamped on upper and lower, it tends to force all the assemblies back into square.

After they are all pressed I to place, I welded .125 inch angle iron "ears" onto the rectangular tube between the upper and lower original structure. I figured it would help with fore and aft flex,as well as providing an easy flush surface to rivet the body sheets to.

One thing I did was attach vhb tape strips to each flat surface then stick the sheet metal to it. With that technique I was able to press and hold the metal in the right position, then Perl and stick the second side of the vhb tape. The panels just hung there for the most part until I could drill a hole or two for clecos.


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Old 02-15-2015, 08:38 PM   #350
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Here's a little more detail with the transition from low to high roof. It is a full stich weld across both seams. The weld is on the adjacent roof panels, not the structural member.

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