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Old 04-13-2015, 04:41 PM   #431
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how about 1/8 clear lexan? you could fill it with lots of fun stuff, the balls from a bean bag and a small air pump would act like a snow globe, and you could glue plastic fish to blue painted inner walls like an aquarium...lots of ideas

even a hot air popcorn machine could fill the wall and be dispensed out the bottom at parties
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Old 04-13-2015, 05:33 PM   #432
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Oh my god I didn't even think of that!

Also:

https://www.playlsi.com/en/commercia...ts/gear-panel/

Play Panels | Kidstruction


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Originally Posted by bansil View Post
how about 1/8 clear lexan? you could fill it with lots of fun stuff, the balls from a bean bag and a small air pump would act like a snow globe, and you could glue plastic fish to blue painted inner walls like an aquarium...lots of ideas

even a hot air popcorn machine could fill the wall and be dispensed out the bottom at parties
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:12 PM   #433
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They say it's "a store front" looks like a tiki bar to me, fish Taco's ?
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Old 04-13-2015, 08:31 PM   #434
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I decided to use 1/4" plywood. I will use 3/4" or 1" or 1.5" wood framing and fill voids with foam I have. I will use Bondo compound where I have gaps.

I might use some steel where really needed, but bus itself is rock solid and partition walls made of steel are overkill....

So in my case it will be more like house drywall. Drywall is 1/4" plywood, mud is Bondo. It is very forgiving if you screw up (and believe me you will...) you can easily fix just about anything with Bondo.....

If I were you I would use 1/4" plywood. I would add some wood between steel studs you have. I would use screws/glue to screw ply to metal and brad nails/glue to attach ply to wood. I would add horizontal wood runs every 12-18". This would give enough support for whatever material you decide to use.

I had to add wood in some areas because plywood needs support especially where 2 ply sheets meet.

The real PITA for you are inside corners. You can double up steel with 1"x2" and attach ply to it.


Think ahead. How are you going to make your inside/ outside corners? What is going to be used as a filler compound? If you don't want to use filler you will have to use some kind of mouldings everywhere.
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:31 PM   #435
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I never take selfies so uh, here you go. In the rain, cold and getting dark out side, perfect time for a foto.

You should frame it.
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:37 PM   #436
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A nice thin 1/4 inch ply core followed by that cheap silver bubble wrap (for spacing) followed by the plastic sheeting I have would work pretty good...

I plan on riveting the plastic into the steel frame, and now that you mention it, I could rip some battens to attach to the ply, which would provide a thick enough material to add a few rivets in the middle of the panel too.

My plan for the outside edges is this plastic u channel stuff that has a 1-1/8" inner width. I can clip it right over the edges where metal is at.

For the edges at the ceiling curve I was planning on some thin cove base molding (100 foot reels of the stuff is cheap) installed upside down and fastened to the panel. It would make a great wire chase for things too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
I decided to use 1/4" plywood. I will use 3/4" or 1" or 1.5" wood framing and fill voids with foam I have. I will use Bondo compound where I have gaps.

I might use some steel where really needed, but bus itself is rock solid and partition walls made of steel are overkill....

So in my case it will be more like house drywall. Drywall is 1/4" plywood, mud is Bondo. It is very forgiving if you screw up (and believe me you will...) you can easily fix just about anything with Bondo.....

If I were you I would use 1/4" plywood. I would add some wood between steel studs you have. I would use screws/glue to screw ply to metal and brad nails/glue to attach ply to wood. I would add horizontal wood runs every 12-18". This would give enough support for whatever material you decide to use.

I had to add wood in some areas because plywood needs support especially where 2 ply sheets meet.

The real PITA for you are inside corners. You can double up steel with 1"x2" and attach ply to it.


Think ahead. How are you going to make your inside/ outside corners? What is going to be used as a filler compound? If you don't want to use filler you will have to use some kind of mouldings everywhere.
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Old 04-14-2015, 10:55 AM   #437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
I never take selfies so uh, here you go. In the rain, cold and getting dark out side, perfect time for a foto.

You should frame it.
your photo turned out good
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Old 04-14-2015, 11:55 AM   #438
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If you decide to use panels you should use what is called J molding when used with drywalls. You will need to find right thickness.

J molds will hide imperfections in the edge and will make your panelling look professional. In case of inside corner or outside corner they will form your corner. You can even use them on flat surface just by putting back to back.

Check this out:

Search Results forĀ*frp moldingĀ*at The Home Depot

25 White 8ft End Cap Molding for 090"in NRP Vinyl FRP 4x8' Wall Panel Plas Tex | eBay

Marlite Accessories - EM Plastic & Electric Products Ltd.

You will be able to attach j moild to your framing with rivets/glue (I would use screws instead), then you can install your panels inside the channels of j molds. I would also add some glue in the middle to hold panels to cross members. In this case all your screws will be hidden and only nice clean panels will show up.

Finally found a video:

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Old 04-14-2015, 12:15 PM   #439
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Aaron, you need to post that in the thread in everything else ;)
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Old 04-16-2015, 11:23 AM   #440
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I finally sat down for a few hours for the marathon read through your thread. You're doing really nice work. The "structure recalibration modules" put a smile on my face. I'm almost to the recalibration point on mine, and still weighing options on lift and guide mechanism.

With a few hundred rivets under your belt now, how did you feel about that Boulderfly 747 rivet gun and bucking bars kit you linked to earlier? I've been waffling over whether to get just the rivet sets to use with my Harbor Freight air hammer/chisel, or whether to also get the (presumed) better hammer with this kit. Which rivet head shape did you use with this? I can't tell from the current Amazon listing whether its sets are for round, truss, etc.

Also wondering whether you did anything to stretch the exterior metal as you fastened/applied it so it won't warp in the summer heat..?
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