Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 04-08-2016, 03:11 PM   #651
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 957
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
The problem with hanging them centerline as originally planned is that they'd fit the space, but only if they could somehow get through/around the narrow pass between frame and luggage floor? That's what I'm up against with one of my tanks. No luggage bay floor (yet), but I want one of the tanks above my wheelchair lift. I'll have to drop the lift a few inches, slide the tank in, then re-mount the lift. Not looking forward to it.
family wagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2016, 03:14 PM   #652
Bus Nut
 
skoolie_n00bie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 446
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Ward
Chassis: International
Engine: Navistar 5.9 Diesel
Rated Cap: A butt-load...
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan-fox View Post
Yow! Between my family and my daughter's family, we've had 3 Priuses (Prii?) and never have I ever had hassles like that. It could be that living in the MidAtlantic has insulated me from that.
Remember the Prius and the Volt are two different animals.
The Volt is designed to be primarily an electric car with gas genny assistance, the Prius is the other way around, basically.
I don't recall specs, specifically, but i believe the volt has more batteries, and they are li-ion vs the Prius having.....other types of batteries.
However this needs references, not just my brain vomit...
__________________
n00b build > http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f27/th...ily-10122.html
Not my fault if anything I post results in someone losing a finger...
Errare humanum est, perseverare diabolicum
skoolie_n00bie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2016, 03:54 PM   #653
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 648
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
For me, centerline makes accessing the tanks in any way in the future nearly impossible. I saw an update from the Bertha Bus folks on facebook - they undersized the drain on the gray water, and the tank started accumulating sediment. No way to fix that other than get the tank out, and I can only imagine the work required if I have to cut structure out of the way to get the tanks in first.

There's simply not enough room to scootch the tanks in from the front, the angle is too tight to work around the fuel tank, and in the rear, the axle housing is in the way as well. That leaves slicing a big hole in the bay floor.

At that point, if you do get tanks in place, it's impossible to access any of the wiring and plumbing going down the frame (that had access ports before) or even getting to the hanger bolts for a centerline setup. Let's not forget that I'd have to lift the bus up to get the 15-16 inches of clearance to slide the tanks in from under. I don't have a 4 post hydraulic coach lift.

I'm pretty convinced the outboard tanks will work great.

I can disconnect fittings and slide them out easily enough.
There's room for insulation and plumbing.
There's now room in the middle for water pumps, filters, pressure bladders, and valving, which is still accessible just by the fact the tanks don't take up the fore to aft length up.

I'll still be able to install batteries centerline, however. They're just not as huge as the water tanks are. The clearance between lowest point on the frame to floor of the bay is 12", which is an inch larger than the height dimension of most batteries I'm looking at.

I would, dare I say almost state that a luggage bay is pretty limiting in some respects. In others it's nice because it is finished out with doors and a floor.


Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
The problem with hanging them centerline as originally planned is that they'd fit the space, but only if they could somehow get through/around the narrow pass between frame and luggage floor? That's what I'm up against with one of my tanks. No luggage bay floor (yet), but I want one of the tanks above my wheelchair lift. I'll have to drop the lift a few inches, slide the tank in, then re-mount the lift. Not looking forward to it.
aaronsb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2016, 12:26 AM   #654
Skoolie
 
Alan N's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Gonvick MN
Posts: 206
Year: 1975
Chassis: Gillig
Engine: Cat 3208t
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
Should I be less fearful of drilling a few holes in the vertical web of the vehicle frame? 4 holes evenly spaced for perhaps a 1/2" bolt would be adequate to support the weight (x4 for each end and side) and make this whole thing a lot easier.
I would not be afraid to drill holes in the vertical frame web. Don't drill in the flanges however.
__________________
Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof.
Alan N is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2016, 10:15 AM   #655
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 123
Coachwork: -
Chassis: -
Engine: -
Vertical Frame Web = the cross beams??

No problem to drill these AS LONG, as you stay away a prudent distance from the edges - THAT's where the forces pass through! Imagine to drill holes to lighten up the frame!!
And make sure they are de-burred! You don't want any hidden stress risers....
Also make sure that the stuff you bolt up doesn't introduce any twisting forces into the cross-members....copy what's already there from the factory!!

thjakits
thjakits is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2016, 11:01 AM   #656
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 4,562
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
If you are talking about the vertical portion of the main frame "C" channel, most manufacturers are adamant that no additional holes be drilled at all. GM has several safety bulletins that specifically address this issue.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2016, 12:51 PM   #657
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 648
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
The cross beams, aka "ladder rungs" already have enough holes I can use. I'm talking about the frame rails. I believe the rule of thumb is to stay in the center 33% of the vertical webbing. The least stress is in that location.

I've been looking at application guides for long haul trucks and semi trucks where additional holes are drilled for equipment and its not uncommon.

I still think it might be less "scary" to build some sets of hangers that reach around the flanges on top and bottom.

Would that be considered an incorrect way to load on the flanges, because its applying a point load?

I can't find any documentation about drilling holes in bluebird frames.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thjakits View Post
Vertical Frame Web = the cross beams??

No problem to drill these AS LONG, as you stay away a prudent distance from the edges - THAT's where the forces pass through! Imagine to drill holes to lighten up the frame!!
And make sure they are de-burred! You don't want any hidden stress risers....
Also make sure that the stuff you bolt up doesn't introduce any twisting forces into the cross-members....copy what's already there from the factory!!

thjakits
aaronsb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2016, 01:38 PM   #658
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 648
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
This is pretty neat:

Chassis Grabber
aaronsb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2016, 01:47 PM   #659
Skoolie
 
RHOMBUS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 193
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner HDX
Engine: CAT 3126B250
Rated Cap: 84
That chassis grabber looks cool, but I don't know how I'd slip that one part over the frame.
__________________
My project: The Cruel Bus
RHOMBUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2016, 04:53 PM   #660
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 3,112
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by skoolie_n00bie View Post
Remember the Prius and the Volt are two different animals.
The Volt is designed to be primarily an electric car with gas genny assistance, the Prius is the other way around, basically.
I don't recall specs, specifically, but i believe the volt has more batteries, and they are li-ion vs the Prius having.....other types of batteries.
However this needs references, not just my brain vomit...

my volt had 16.1 KwH battery packs in it... the charge management system from chevy allowed the battery to use 10.1 Kwh of that.. thus always keeping the charge no lower than 20% and no higher than 80-85%.. the batteries also had extensive thermal management. under that arrangement you conceivabley can get 1000s of charge cycles out of your pack before it degrades...

battery degradation even on the oldest volts out there has been minimal compared to larger-range charge systems and non-thermally managed batteries like the nissan leaf or the smart-fortwo electric drive..

I sold my volt last year so I havent paid attention since then to the electric car forums of other models like the i3 or teslas to see if their packs are holding up..

the volt's battery pack is a 360 volt DC pack..

-Christopher
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:56 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.