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Old 04-11-2016, 06:37 PM   #671
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IIRC the Prius claims that it can be driven by both the electric and combustion engines simultaneously, but I'll admit that I never did fully grok that gearbox they brag about so much.
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Old 04-11-2016, 06:43 PM   #672
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IIRC the Prius claims that it can be driven by both the electric and combustion engines simultaneously, but I'll admit that I never did fully grok that gearbox they brag about so much.
it does exactly that... its a full parallel hybrid so the electric motor will run with the gas motor under heavy acceleration...
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Old 04-11-2016, 07:20 PM   #673
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the original volt was 36 All electric miles.. then went up 2 each year until 2016 where its been increaed to 55 or 60 I think...

the volt operates completely different than a PRIUS too.. as even at 100 MPH the engine wont come on unless the batteries are dead or unless you have selected a mode to maintain the current battery charge state... or if you select Mountain mode it will keep the batteries at a constant 40% so you can climb hills with both electrics and engine.. (the volt COULD couple the engine directly to the transmission though the ring gear) being both a Series and parallel hybrid..

my Volt never slowed down in the mountains.. I ran it at 75 MPH up the steepest hills....

-Christopher
If Chevy keeps up production, the Volt might be my next car. I loved it when it first came out, and it can only get better! Hope that Tesla competition puts fire under the big 3's asses...now back on topic....

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Old 04-11-2016, 07:25 PM   #674
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What ideas are you entertaining for tank heating?
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Old 04-14-2016, 07:28 PM   #675
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it does exactly that... its a full parallel hybrid so the electric motor will run with the gas motor under heavy acceleration...
I want a pre smog Jeep Wagoneer with a 4 cylinder Diesel as my toad.
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Old 04-21-2016, 12:40 PM   #676
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Metal tubes and stuff

Just thought I'd show some stuff happening.

Shower's installed. I need to come up with a shower door I'm happy with probably. The hole is drilled in the floor for the drain, so that's cool.


Door latches are nice. The entrance door closes with a nice automotive style "thunk" and locks. I have a neat spring retracting air ram and a pneumatic circuit (not shown) that pops the latch, then proceeds to use the air ram to open the door. Sequencing is all mechanical so I won't break stuff. I just noticed you can barely see through the bottom window the old metal bar for the "vandal lock" on the original bus door, laying on the ground. Man that thing really sucked.


Some more significant framing. This is the dresser/closet frame for the rear bed. It'll get some slider doors for access, and probably some sort of birch wood finish paneling. The full size murphy bed folds up against this.
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Old 04-21-2016, 05:15 PM   #677
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Nice work! I had wondered about the use of square tubing vs 2.4's in framing out the interior. I do believe that inches count, and you save some there.

Any idea if that 1"(?) stull you're using weighs more or less than a 2x4 on a per-linear-foot basis?

I was thinking that foam interior and Formica/WilsonArt surfaces might be one way to go in making a frame into a wall. How are you planning to finish those? Have you found any way to run any utilities inside them? Inquiring minds etc..............

Thanks in advance -
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Old 04-21-2016, 05:38 PM   #678
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[QUOTE=aaronsb;144168]


Door latches are nice. The entrance door closes with a nice automotive style "thunk" and locks. I have a neat spring retracting air ram and a pneumatic circuit (not shown) that pops the latch, then proceeds to use the air ram to open the door. Sequencing is all mechanical so I won't break stuff. I just noticed you can barely see through the bottom window the old metal bar for the "vandal lock" on the original bus door, laying on the ground. Man that thing really sucked.


Looking great aaron! Can you provide more pics of the door latch and opener and what parts are needed to construct it. Neat looking setup.
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Old 04-21-2016, 07:36 PM   #679
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I'm going to assume you are waiting to get everything on the inside of the door completed before you insulate and add the panel for the inside?? And yeah, the auto lock sounds like a great idea. maybe you can get a remote actuator to use a key FOB with it.
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Old 04-21-2016, 08:06 PM   #680
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Kiln dried untreated Douglas Fir 2"x4" (actual 1.5"x3.5") lumber is specified to weigh 1.28 lbs per linear foot. This can change with prolonged exposure to humidity and variation in suppliers, species, and other variables.

1"x1"x.065 seam weld ASTM steel tube is .814 lbs per linear foot.

Ends fixed, the calculated deflection for a 4' section is 0.218" with a center load of 100 lbs.

For the 2x4 beam, it's a little different (because rectangle)

Positioned so the farthest fiber is vertical, a 4' section with the same 100 lb point load in the middle would flex 0.4 inches. FF positioned horizontal you're looking at somewhere around 2.2 inches of deflection at the load point.

Summary:
So, for a nominal length, the 1" square steel tube in any orientation is about as strong as the 2x4 is in it's strong orientation when given a static load. Please remember thats not a linear relationship, and a longer section of 2x4 oriented FF vertical may flex less than the same length of tube.

Steel weighs less per linear foot.

I would also hold some other assumptions, listed here:

The steel has a higher propensity to bend and not come back to it's original strength, so +1 for wood

Wood can get wet, mold, splinter, and is far more difficult to control. +1 steel

Steel can rust. +1 wood

Wood requires more "technology" to anchor together properly. +1 steel

Wood is easier for average folks to work with. +1 wood

Steel is easier for me to work with than wood +1 steel. (I can weld steel with the same ease as hot gluing popsicle sticks together)




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Originally Posted by dan-fox View Post
Nice work! I had wondered about the use of square tubing vs 2.4's in framing out the interior. I do believe that inches count, and you save some there.

Any idea if that 1"(?) stull you're using weighs more or less than a 2x4 on a per-linear-foot basis?

I was thinking that foam interior and Formica/WilsonArt surfaces might be one way to go in making a frame into a wall. How are you planning to finish those? Have you found any way to run any utilities inside them? Inquiring minds etc..............

Thanks in advance -
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