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Old 08-10-2015, 06:27 AM   #31
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The sheet metal below the chair rail is what holds the body to the chassis. And we do tend to leave the chair rail intact, because it gives a structural mounting point for fittings.
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Old 08-10-2015, 02:29 PM   #32
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I agree, the chair rail needs to stay.

That diagram I made showing how a bus body is put together needs to be made a sticky. Then all the new members could see it.

Here it is again.



Nat
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Old 08-10-2015, 04:04 PM   #33
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One more chair rail note...

when closed in it makes an excellent run for electrical, plumbing and just about anything you want tucked away.
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:42 PM   #34
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I recommend the roof raise it is really not that hard to do and plus you get so much more space for proper insulation and if you are really thinking about putting the shower over the wheel well it will work. We have decided on our going over the wheel well and building out from it so the trap will be inside and be less likely to freeze.
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:47 PM   #35
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One more note for anyone hating the wheel wells.

When we order buses new, we can ask for the same bus, but 19.5 tires VS the big 22.5 tires.

Having the smaller tires, allows the manufacture to make a flat floor with no wheel wells in the way. This is used for full wheel chair buses.

Only thing the manufacture installs different is the gearing in the rear axle. If the bus was 5.29 with the 22.5 tires, it needs 3.54 with the shorter 19.5 tires to drive the same speed with the same engine RPM.

Same go's for anyone wanting tall gears to go faster. Look for units with the 19.5 tires for faster, taller gears.

Nat
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Old 08-10-2015, 11:27 PM   #36
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That's interesting - so you can Rob the Pumpkin on those buses for the Gears... That's very interesting...

Good post
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Old 08-12-2015, 12:05 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
One more note for anyone hating the wheel wells.

When we order buses new, we can ask for the same bus, but 19.5 tires VS the big 22.5 tires.

Having the smaller tires, allows the manufacture to make a flat floor with no wheel wells in the way. This is used for full wheel chair buses.

Only thing the manufacture installs different is the gearing in the rear axle. If the bus was 5.29 with the 22.5 tires, it needs 3.54 with the shorter 19.5 tires to drive the same speed with the same engine RPM.

Same go's for anyone wanting tall gears to go faster. Look for units with the 19.5 tires for faster, taller gears.

Nat

Thanks for the info, Nat. Seems like a real foolproof way to get yourself the proper gearing in the back. I may do just that if I find myself planning a cross-country voyage.

I think a proper sticky with information like that diagram you posted would be very helpful. But, that would mean someone devoting their precious time. We can only hope that someone might come along like that.

I've got the bus tarped up. I will be in Michigan for a month, leaving this Saturday. But, I'm looking to come back strong in September. With the weather cooling down and the wife exiting first trimester (she's been dealing with a lot of nausea, she had the same with our first child), hopefully she can be out there a little more to lend a hand. I know she wants to be out there, she is just as excited to get it underway as I am.
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Old 08-12-2015, 12:11 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtoZ View Post
I recommend the roof raise it is really not that hard to do and plus you get so much more space for proper insulation and if you are really thinking about putting the shower over the wheel well it will work. We have decided on our going over the wheel well and building out from it so the trap will be inside and be less likely to freeze.
Yea, it's still in the back of my mind. Maybe if I didn't have two old Mercedes that didn't also need my help, I'd be feeling a little more ambitious!

The other part that has me hesitant is my yard. My house is on the side of a hill. As it is now, sometimes as I am working in the bus my balance is thrown off by the angle it's sitting at. I don't really want to find another place to park it while I do the raise. Though, I did stop at a local place called "camping world" that had many RV products. They had what seemed to be tire shims to get your RV level. Maybe I can do something like this?

I have a lead on a large Hitachi angle grinder. Hopefully it works out. That would definitely be needed for a roof raise.
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:02 AM   #39
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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1439376984.841374.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1439377166.510536.jpg

I used old scaffold boards - cut at decending lengths and screwed and glued.
Worked out perfect for where we fish.
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Old 08-17-2015, 05:37 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
One more note for anyone hating the wheel wells.

When we order buses new, we can ask for the same bus, but 19.5 tires VS the big 22.5 tires.

Having the smaller tires, allows the manufacture to make a flat floor with no wheel wells in the way. This is used for full wheel chair buses.

Only thing the manufacture installs different is the gearing in the rear axle. If the bus was 5.29 with the 22.5 tires, it needs 3.54 with the shorter 19.5 tires to drive the same speed with the same engine RPM.

Same go's for anyone wanting tall gears to go faster. Look for units with the 19.5 tires for faster, taller gears.

Nat
That's quite the info!

One could go trough the trouble of flattening the floor and making mechanical change accordingly... nice!
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