The bus for us

[ii_amnt]

Borrowed a friend's pressure washer for a week. Pressure washed the under carriage and the insides. Really worked great, I would definitely recommend it for the under carriage, at least. The water started pooling on the inside but actually drained pretty well through the creases.

Right now, I'm trying to do my best to get everything stripped and cleaned to start the ospho treatment and rustoleum painting. We went with the buckets of professional oil-based paint, aluminum in color.

Used the flap wheel on the angle grinder today to work at the old insulation's adhesive. Luckily it's not the black tar I've seen on some people's buses. It is a plaster-like glue that seems to have been sprayed on. Flap wheel does well on it but turns me white head to toe-mask is a must. Have to stop occasionally to clean the face shield.

Let the bus idle for awhile today since it hadn't been started since August. Fired right up.

[M1031A1]

ii,

When I get back from work today, I can help you with trying to get more open space with your floor plan if you would like some help.

I'll be home about 1500 hours or so central time.

PM me if you're interested.

M1031

[ii_amnt]

Anyone have any ideas as to what could dissolve this glue they used on the insulation. I really dont want to have to spend back breaking days going through flap discs removing it. Maybe the aircraft paint stripper I've heard people use on the tar type glue I've seen on here?

[EastCoastCB]

I'd probably leave it, but yeah the stripper should work.

[ii_amnt]

I have been so tempted to just leave it. But, what gets me is that there is a bit of rust under a decent amount of it. I suppose most of it might be stopped from progressing once I spray foam and seal it all off. I want really good adhesion when I paint. I am looking for longevity.

I bought some aircraft paint stripper tonight and tested it out. After 5 minutes I could scrape off the thicker stuff. We'll see how it goes when I can get a chance to let it soak longer and keep reapplying.

[EastCoastCB]

You're like me... You just HAVE to do it RIGHT. I totally get that.
After fighting the IMPOSSIBLE Ward tar, I'm just a bit weary. The stripper will do it, so thats awesome news!
Cleaning up the underside of the roof as been the hardest part of my journey thus far. I get really bad headaches, and this process has been horrendous.
I love your attention to detail and your desire to create quality. Carry on!

[Scooternj]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Cleaning up the underside of the roof as been the hardest part of my journey thus far.

Agreed. Makes me wish we could just stick our beasts on to giant frame rig and rotate them 90 degrees to get at the ceilings

[ii_amnt]

Aesthetic perfection is less my goal, but for practicality and longevity is what I aim for. The most pleasing forms follow function.

Yeah, that tar looked nasty. I come out looking like a ghost while trying to sand away at my glue. With any hope, this stripper will be my savior. In my own daydream, once this stuff has soaked in, it will wipe off with some paper towels, haha!

Once the first stroke of paint hits the interior, I'll feel better.

[family wagon]

Somebody.. the folks in San Diego I think, though I don't recall the screen name.. used a rubber "magic eraser" disc to remove an adhesive from their floor. Seems like their adhesive turned gummy under the flap wheel treatment, so that method didn't work. Maybe the eraser disc would be worth considering if the stripper doesn't work out for you.

[ii_amnt]

Alright, the time is upon us to get some real work done. Most of the ceiling has been cleaned and painted. I need to get some of the junk I've accumulated from a neighbor's renovation project out of the bus and into the garage. I have the metal cut for the window covering. Pictures to come on that. I am looking to order the rivets tonight (SBS62 Small (Dome) Head 3/16" Diameter All Steel blind rivets. Made in USA by ADP Rivet) and rent a home depot air compressor for a day or two then buy a Harbor Fright air rivet gun, use it [then possibly return it, shh]. And then I'll be free to paint the walls.

I've got the sikaflex ready to seal my panels. I've resealed one (of four) of the school bus amber light holes since the PO used plastic. So, once the walls are painted I'll retreat the floor and paint that.

Then onto framing my front wall and maybe bathroom. Haven't decided on whether to do that before or after the spray foam.

Somewhere between having the bus sealed up and spray foaming, I'd like to get my insulated RV windows ordered, likely off eBay. I want to frame them in and get them done before I spray foam. I found a good local contractor to do that. They specialize in commercial and one-off contracts.

I also picked up an old window AC unit for $20. It's small, but I think it'll work. It has been mostly disassembled so I can clean it and re-mount it under the bus floor, I will create a shroud for the cold side and route an insulated duct with inline fan up to the bus floor. I may set a on/off thermostat with a probe in the living space that I can set, that way I don't have to mess with the simple electronic of the unit.

[ii_amnt]

Been skinning the windows and planning. The emergency door will be left intact, and the handle removed from outside. A friend borrowed me his large craftsman air compressor and I bought the harbor freight air riveter. 3/16" SS rivets.

Next is to finish the other side and get the panels painted and some extra sealant. Been using dynaflex for a paintable sealant around open seams.

[cadillackid]

lookin good!! Nice tyo see another 1991 Carpenter!.. albeit yours is longer than mine!.

I saw a post a few back about you removing the driver heater console.. you will want some heat by the driver as it is a cold seat due to the things others mention and also that the defroster air-intake (the cowl on the outside below the driver window) also brings in lots of outside air.. outside air is good for defogging when you dont have engine driven A/C.

there is a TON of wasted space inside the OEM heater Boxes.. they can be removed and reinstalled but you can also build your own that is much smaller and still maintain heating / defrosting functionality.. the carpenter busses have 2 blowers in that front heater.. one for the Left side of the windshield and one for the driver / left front passenger seat...

for an RV those heaters are somewhat Oversize as you arent trying to heat 11 rows of seats.. just the driver and maybe a duct to the area just behind..

you can use an automotive heater core for each heater and smaller blower motors and still get the desired results.. and cut that box size down.. your right side door heater is the same, it has 2 blowers in it (depending on the options ordered on the bus).. the door is another Very cold area in a bus so unless you are going to change the door it will need heat.. (maybe you already did? I didnt read the whole thread).

-Christopher

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by ii_amnt

Been skinning the windows and planning. The emergency door will be left intact, and the handle removed from outside. A friend borrowed me his large craftsman air compressor and I bought the harbor freight air riveter. 3/16" SS rivets.

Next is to finish the other side and get the panels painted and some extra sealant. Been using dynaflex for a paintable sealant around open seams.

Cool. Lemme know how you like the HF riveter.

[ii_amnt]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

lookin good!! Nice tyo see another 1991 Carpenter!.. albeit yours is longer than mine!.

I saw a post a few back about you removing the driver heater console.. you will want some heat by the driver as it is a cold seat due to the things others mention and also that the defroster air-intake (the cowl on the outside below the driver window) also brings in lots of outside air.. outside air is good for defogging when you dont have engine driven A/C.

there is a TON of wasted space inside the OEM heater Boxes.. they can be removed and reinstalled but you can also build your own that is much smaller and still maintain heating / defrosting functionality.. the carpenter busses have 2 blowers in that front heater.. one for the Left side of the windshield and one for the driver / left front passenger seat...

for an RV those heaters are somewhat Oversize as you arent trying to heat 11 rows of seats.. just the driver and maybe a duct to the area just behind..

you can use an automotive heater core for each heater and smaller blower motors and still get the desired results.. and cut that box size down.. your right side door heater is the same, it has 2 blowers in it (depending on the options ordered on the bus).. the door is another Very cold area in a bus so unless you are going to change the door it will need heat.. (maybe you already did? I didnt read the whole thread).

-Christopher

I will be keeping all heaters stock for now. I am just un-securing them to clean and treat for rust.

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Cool. Lemme know how you like the HF riveter.

It's not bad. There are some misleading info for before use instructions. It tells you to open it up and add oil. There is already proper oil level from factory. I opened up my first one, and accidently spilled a little oil from it, so the level was off. A rivet shaft jammed in it after a week. I returned it no questions asked and used it as is from the box. Works pretty darn well, but it's not quite adjusted just right for the rivets I'm using, but it's doing it's job, no problems for now.

[ii_amnt]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

lookin good!! Nice tyo see another 1991 Carpenter!.. albeit yours is longer than mine!.

...

-Christopher

How do you find your headroom in your Carpenter? I decided against a roof raise not because it wouldn't be nice, but because I found my ceiling to be fairly tall and I just don't have the time or resources to do that right now.

[ii_amnt]

So, I work nights and I set my alarm for 8:30 each morning to get a little work done. Normally, I knock out two panels/morning. Yesterday, I was at Lowe's and picked up some new drill bits. So much quicker. Normally, I stray away from the Kobalt brand, but I really like these (see photo). Today, I got 3 panels done. At that pace, two more days and the window panels are done.






I have been shopping for my driving camera system. I want one for backing up and one for my big blind spot to my right. Take a look at the picture of my bus to see that I won't be able to see much at all via windows on that side.

monitor
video cable to reach to the back
cameras

[CaptSquid]

What material did you use to blank off the windows? That's my next project.

[ii_amnt]

I used the ceiling skins.

[Eugene]

[How do you add pictures of school bus conversions on this site

[Eugene]

That's a cool bus