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Old 09-12-2015, 06:08 PM   #41
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So, I had noticed this a little while back and it keeps coming up from the back of my mind.


This is the drive shaft, about 6 feet forward of the rear diff. It seems to be separating where two pieces meet. Can someone give me their interpretation?

I believe I have decided to remove the rear heater and driver's heater. Though, I will leave in the heater by the front door. I have included two pictures that show some of the routing in the engine bay. If I remove those two, should I still need the extra water pump?


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Old 09-12-2015, 06:40 PM   #42
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It appears to be the center bearing mount for a 2 piece driveshaft.
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Old 09-13-2015, 12:28 AM   #43
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One thing to remember is that the coldest seat in a bus is the drivers seat as
there is very little insulation on the side with the electrical and little to no
insulation in front because of the steering column and pedals taking up the
room where the insulation would go.
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Old 09-18-2015, 07:20 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
It appears to be the center bearing mount for a 2 piece driveshaft.
That makes sense, but I am wondering if it looks okay. To me, it seems the two pieces of driveshaft are slowly separating. I know that collar is loose, and probably just needs to be screwed back on. But, I have nothing to compare to, so I am unsure if this looks normal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonpop View Post
One thing to remember is that the coldest seat in a bus is the drivers seat as
there is very little insulation on the side with the electrical and little to no
insulation in front because of the steering column and pedals taking up the
room where the insulation would go.
This is a good point. I will likely leave it until I get further along. I will have to think on it. I know removing It would give me better access to the floor underneath it and the space in front to treat rust and paint. Maybe I will remove it to at least gain better access, then if it turns out I want to keep it, I can give it a good cleaning, too.

Last weekend I started attacking the floor with naval jelly, wire cup brush on my new angle grinder and a little flap disc for the glue residue. The more I am in that bus, the more I feel the need to do a thorough removal of all the rust. The one area that is haunting me is between the exterior panels and the chair rail. The rust is not extreme, but there is enough to worry me. I cannot get to all of it without removing exterior panels. It seems from the window sill to the bottom of the skirt is one single piece. Obviously, these are structural pieces.

My though it to take off one at a time, so that I don't experience any twisting of the structure. Once rust is treated and painted in that area, rivet it back on and move on to the next. My pop rivet gun can handle up to 3/16" rivets. I do not know what size are holding these exterior panels, but does anyone think there is a chance 3/16" would be large enough?
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File Type: jpg 6.jpg (28.1 KB, 7 views)
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Old 09-18-2015, 11:14 PM   #45
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
It appears to be the center bearing mount for a 2 piece driveshaft.

That makes sense, but I am wondering if it looks okay. To me, it seems the two pieces of driveshaft are slowly separating. I know that collar is loose, and probably just needs to be screwed back on. But, I have nothing to compare to, so I am unsure if this looks normal.
The splines are supposed to slide in and out to make up the difference when the diff goes up and down. The collar is to help keep the dust out. Looks like it has collected a lot of gritty stuff, I think I would drop the rear driveshaft, clean up the splines and regrease.
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Old 09-19-2015, 09:48 AM   #46
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Perfect, thank you. I will add that to the to do list. This is why I love this site.
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Old 09-19-2015, 06:02 PM   #47
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Those slip-spline gears are very tough, but a clean-up and some fresh grease as Somewhere suggests would make'em last a whole lot longer.
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Old 09-30-2015, 11:23 PM   #48
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WE have been doing more planning than doing recently. Half the floor is wire wheeled down. Going to try and see if I can get some Ospho in town.

We are back on the thought of roof raise. I know the current headroom bounty is only an illusion. It will disappear quickly once we start building back up. I am currently trying to acquire enough scrap wood to do some ramps for the left side, so that the bus sits level. Our whole property is on an incline. I have taken measurements for hat channels and am looking for scaffolding. I don't have a truck to get the scaffolding home. The bus has no insurance. Will scaffolding break down any further so I can at least strap it to the roof of my wagon?

The wife was stressing about the layouts and how to fit two or three kids in there with us (we have a hunch she's got two in her tummy, but we will see). Our bus is not very big. Usable space once the dividing wall is up is 7 ft 4 inches by 24 ft 6 inches. But once you squeeze and inch here and an inch there and add murphy bunks, all is good.

The roof raise will make those murphy bunks possible. We are going for 18" so you can stand comfortably above the wheel well. The back will be a full raise with the cap. The front I am still debating about. It would look even sillier than the big forehead roof raise buses to do a partial raise in the front (would be right at the dividing wall behind the driver's seat). But, I am having trouble figuring out where to cut up there.

I have attached the most current layout.
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Old 10-01-2015, 11:33 AM   #49
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Does your bus really have over a million miles on it?
I did the roof raise on the whole roof, I think it's the best way to go, and I put a big ass window in my buses forehead. Maybe it looks silly outside, but it kicks ass inside!
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Old 10-01-2015, 02:45 PM   #50
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Congrats on the (potential) twins! I have one set; they'll be 4 soon....... Need I say more? They're fun, though.

Scaffolding breaks down to just the square-ish end frames and the cross bars. The end frames would be 5 or 6 feet tall and... I don't actually know... about the same width. If that doesn't fit the roof rack nicely on whatever you've got, then tie down a pair of 2x4 to the roof rack and put the scaffold frames on top of those.

Did you see the bunks aaronsb built on The Broccoli Bus? They sound similar to what you might be thinking of.
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