The bus for us

[Robin97396]

You have to upload your pictures to imgur or photobucket, then transfer them into a thread.

[ii_amnt]

Originally Posted by CaptSquid

What material did you use to blank off the windows? That's my next project.

BTW, as a general disclaimer...

I don't recommend paneling off each window individually. I only did it for time and money's sake. Using the biggest sheet you can haul out to your bus is best, less seams for leaks to develop.

[ii_amnt]

Can any one tell me what is the model exactly for my bus?

[CaptSquid]

Using a single-sized sheet to cover as many windows as possible is NOT feasible. The old glass windows WILL be removed, leaving space between the ribs that will have to be filled with cut-to-size pieces of whatever material may be necessary and caulking around the edges for weather tightness.

Again, what material did you use to fill in the window holes?

[Hank's P-O-S]

Originally Posted by ii_amnt

Can any one tell me what is the model exactly for my bus?

Could you clarify?
Exact model as in like 1991 international 3800?

If that's not what you mean, look up your vin in google.

[Dapplecreek]

Originally Posted by Hank's P-O-S

... look up your vin in google.

In case this helps:

Gates VIN Decoder

[Brad_SwiftFur]

Oh wow! Very handy for belt and hose lookup! This will save me a lot of effort.

[ii_amnt]

Originally Posted by CaptSquid

Using a single-sized sheet to cover as many windows as possible is NOT feasible. The old glass windows WILL be removed, leaving space between the ribs that will have to be filled with cut-to-size pieces of whatever material may be necessary and caulking around the edges for weather tightness.

Again, what material did you use to fill in the window holes?

I used a single sheet of cut down inner skin for each window. I was trying to say that if you remove the windows and use a full piece if sheet stock (8'?), that would create the least amount of seals and best look. Less seals means less chance for water intrusion.

[ii_amnt]

Thank you dapplecreek, great resource.

Here's what my vin yielded:

Manufacturer International/Navistar
Make International
Model Year 1991
Model 3800
Engine Manufacturer International/Navistar
Engine Series DT-360
Engine Capacity L6, 5.9L 180hp (360CID)
Fuel Type Diesel
Vehicle Type Blue Bird School Bus
Chassis 4X2 FBC Chassis
Drive Line Type 4x2
Brake System Hydraulic
GVWR Class 26,001 - 33,000lbs.
Country US Produced Incomplete Bus
Assy. Plant Springfield, Ohio

VERY INTERESTING...so much info that contradicts what I thought I knew about my bus. I've highlighted my points of confusion.

DT-360? How do I verify whether I have the 360 or the 466?

Blue Bird? My placard that has my VIN clearly state the bus is a carpenter. What makes me second guess this at all is the fact that my interior lights all have the bluebird logo. I figured this was just a replacement that was on hand.

Can anyone explain what the FBC means in the chassis?

What is meant by "Incomplete Bus"?

[Brad_SwiftFur]

If the VIN says you have a DT360, chances are low that it's ever been replaced - but it is possible. Engine should have a sticker on it somewhere indicating size and HP rating.

The interior lights are likely a universal size, and I have a Carpenter bus too ... I need covers for some of my lights and since Carpenter is out of business, finding Carpenter branded covers is highly unlikely. I'm betting the Blue Bird ones are a perfect fit and that's what some mechanic had available.

Incomplete bus is what IH shipped out of their chassis plant to a body builder. Carpenter, Blue Bird, etc. do not issue chassis VIN's, unless they actually made the chassis.

I'd have to look up what the FBC means.

[opus]

If it has raised ridges on the valve cover, it should be a 360. How many fuel filters are there? 2 usually on a 466, 1 on a 360.

[ii_amnt]

360 it is!

[ArmyChap]

Originally Posted by Brad_SwiftFur

I'd have to look up what the FBC means.

Full Box Framed Chassis?

[cadillackid]

you have close to the same Bus as me.. i have a DT360... mine was replaced by Jasper and they used the 185 HP version of it...

your DT360 is not a bad engine.. I have a carpenter 7 row thats rates at 27500 GVWR.. and it kicks right down the road at 65... and i havent run up the timing or the fuel screws.. I checked and both are bone stock on mine..

you can also get some more horsies quite easily without harming your DT360 by turning up the fuel screw.. and depending on where its set.. 22 degrees timing is completely safe...

the DT360 does in facrt (or should) have 2 fuel filters.. a water separator with a 12 micron filter in it.. and then right under the injection pump a fuel filter that should not be any finer than 8-10 micron... using a 6 (like the DT466 uses.. and it will fit!) can cause your fuel system to lose prime... idle rough. stall or have no power...

the VIN decoder said blue bird school bus for mine too... incomplete bus means it was shipped from IHC (mine was built in springfield ohio).. with just the hood and the chassis.. typically youd see a plastic cover over the front dash to protect it...

seeing school bus chassis towed 2 wheels at a time was commonplace for me as I lived in dayton and carpenter was in mitchelll indiana and wayne was richmomnd (I believe)..

I have the complete set of factory chassis service manuals for our busses...

the wiring diagrams arenbt included for the BODY but are for the chassis... your main wiring diagram for the carpenter is on the header panel above the student mirror.

-Christopher

[ii_amnt]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

your DT360 is not a bad engine.. I have a carpenter 7 row thats rates at 27500 GVWR.. and it kicks right down the road at 65... and i havent run up the timing or the fuel screws.. I checked and both are bone stock on mine..

Yea, I'm sure it's a great engine, too. I just somehow got the idea in my head that it was the 466 without ever verifying it and was mildly disappointed for a bit. I don't feel these conversions add all that much weight and the most I plan to tow is a flatbed with my old Mercedes on it (GVW of 3,500#) and I know I've got the gearing to handle that. One day I may switch out the rear end and do some further traveling with it and get some good highway speeds. I will be staying in the great lake region while I use it, not a whole lot of driving so it really isn't bothering me right now.

Originally Posted by cadillackid

...
the wiring diagrams arenbt included for the BODY but are for the chassis... your main wiring diagram for the carpenter is on the header panel above the student mirror.

I cut out that diagram and saved it from the scrap, planning on framing it up somehow and keeping in the drivers cabin.

[ii_amnt]

Originally Posted by Brad_SwiftFur

The interior lights are likely a universal size, and I have a Carpenter bus too ... I need covers for some of my lights and since Carpenter is out of business, finding Carpenter branded covers is highly unlikely.

I plan on reusing mine on my interior, but I'm planning my electrical system now. If I have leftovers, I'll give you first dibs (if you even want them, I don't know how cheap or common they are) .

Speaking of electrical, here's my initial thoughts for how that's going to go for me in the short term. The PD4045KV by Progressive Dynamics seems like a great little product. Just to clarify, this takes shore power that you wire in and will convert to DC for distribution to your DC circuits and the built in charge controller, right?

At first, I'll only have this power panel, my external sockets for shore power and generator and the wiring and outlets throughout the bus. Later, I will buy my batteries and inverter when I get settled in MI and have get some income happening.

I'd like to put as much on DC as I can, at least my lighting for now.

[cadillackid]

before id change rear ends id change the transmission.. an allison 1000 series appears to be a pretty decent fit.. it is a 6 speed where 5 and 6 are overdrive...

run that on a slightly turned up DT360 and youd be more than highway ready... I have 4.78s in the rear on mine and my bus will run 65.. it topped out completely at 65 before but I went with 6 brand new 11r22.5 tires so I gained a few MPH.. or in my case lost a few RPMs because even though it will go 68 now i rather run a schoolbus at 65..

wierd of carpenter not to put an interior light over the driver.. the old waynes used to have a driver light with a separate switch.. if you dont re-use all your carpenter lights id like one to install in that position..

-Christopher

[ii_amnt]

So, I drove to Charleston and picked up some RV windows. Almost picked up a roof-top AC unit, too. I feel like I'm going to kick myself one day for not picking it up- $50 is what he was going to take for it. It was a little beat up and the internals looked a little rusty, but apparently it was still working. Didn't include the fans and I wasn't sure what it would take getting it running electrically with my set up.

So, now I've only got one....maybe two windows to pick up. I may splurge on my picture window for a dual pane and get the absolute biggest size that will fit.

If anyone wants that roof-top unit, he said he didn't have a problem with me handing out. Can't promise $50 since I was buying other stuff, too. Just send me a PM.

[opus]

Originally Posted by ii_amnt

I'd like to put as much on DC as I can, at least my lighting for now.
[/LEFT]

I have almost everything on DC. Its there...why not?

I keep my lights like yours and replaced them with LED grid that plug into the socket. Now you need sunglasses at night, inside the bus.