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Old 12-26-2015, 08:45 PM   #61
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Location: South Carolina, but headed back to Michigan
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Year: 1991
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Chassis: International
Engine: DT360
Borrowed a friend's pressure washer for a week. Pressure washed the under carriage and the insides. Really worked great, I would definitely recommend it for the under carriage, at least. The water started pooling on the inside but actually drained pretty well through the creases.

Right now, I'm trying to do my best to get everything stripped and cleaned to start the ospho treatment and rustoleum painting. We went with the buckets of professional oil-based paint, aluminum in color.

Used the flap wheel on the angle grinder today to work at the old insulation's adhesive. Luckily it's not the black tar I've seen on some people's buses. It is a plaster-like glue that seems to have been sprayed on. Flap wheel does well on it but turns me white head to toe-mask is a must. Have to stop occasionally to clean the face shield.

Let the bus idle for awhile today since it hadn't been started since August. Fired right up.
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1991 International. DT360. Spicer 5-speed manual transmission. Work in progress; spray foam, wood stove, etc...
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Old 12-27-2015, 04:39 AM   #62
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ii,

When I get back from work today, I can help you with trying to get more open space with your floor plan if you would like some help.

I'll be home about 1500 hours or so central time.

PM me if you're interested.

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Old 01-03-2016, 04:10 PM   #63
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Anyone have any ideas as to what could dissolve this glue they used on the insulation. I really dont want to have to spend back breaking days going through flap discs removing it. Maybe the aircraft paint stripper I've heard people use on the tar type glue I've seen on here?

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1991 International. DT360. Spicer 5-speed manual transmission. Work in progress; spray foam, wood stove, etc...
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Old 01-03-2016, 05:16 PM   #64
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Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Year: 1992
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Engine: dt466
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I'd probably leave it, but yeah the stripper should work.
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:11 PM   #65
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I have been so tempted to just leave it. But, what gets me is that there is a bit of rust under a decent amount of it. I suppose most of it might be stopped from progressing once I spray foam and seal it all off. I want really good adhesion when I paint. I am looking for longevity.

I bought some aircraft paint stripper tonight and tested it out. After 5 minutes I could scrape off the thicker stuff. We'll see how it goes when I can get a chance to let it soak longer and keep reapplying.
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:30 PM   #66
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Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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You're like me... You just HAVE to do it RIGHT. I totally get that.
After fighting the IMPOSSIBLE Ward tar, I'm just a bit weary. The stripper will do it, so thats awesome news!
Cleaning up the underside of the roof as been the hardest part of my journey thus far. I get really bad headaches, and this process has been horrendous.
I love your attention to detail and your desire to create quality. Carry on!
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Old 01-03-2016, 07:12 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Cleaning up the underside of the roof as been the hardest part of my journey thus far.
Agreed. Makes me wish we could just stick our beasts on to giant frame rig and rotate them 90 degrees to get at the ceilings
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Old 01-03-2016, 09:21 PM   #68
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Aesthetic perfection is less my goal, but for practicality and longevity is what I aim for. The most pleasing forms follow function.

Yeah, that tar looked nasty. I come out looking like a ghost while trying to sand away at my glue. With any hope, this stripper will be my savior. In my own daydream, once this stuff has soaked in, it will wipe off with some paper towels, haha!

Once the first stroke of paint hits the interior, I'll feel better.
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Old 01-03-2016, 11:58 PM   #69
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Somebody.. the folks in San Diego I think, though I don't recall the screen name.. used a rubber "magic eraser" disc to remove an adhesive from their floor. Seems like their adhesive turned gummy under the flap wheel treatment, so that method didn't work. Maybe the eraser disc would be worth considering if the stripper doesn't work out for you.
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Old 04-19-2016, 11:39 PM   #70
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Year: 1991
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Alright, the time is upon us to get some real work done. Most of the ceiling has been cleaned and painted. I need to get some of the junk I've accumulated from a neighbor's renovation project out of the bus and into the garage. I have the metal cut for the window covering. Pictures to come on that. I am looking to order the rivets tonight (SBS62 Small (Dome) Head 3/16" Diameter All Steel blind rivets. Made in USA by ADP Rivet) and rent a home depot air compressor for a day or two then buy a Harbor Fright air rivet gun, use it [then possibly return it, shh]. And then I'll be free to paint the walls.

I've got the sikaflex ready to seal my panels. I've resealed one (of four) of the school bus amber light holes since the PO used plastic. So, once the walls are painted I'll retreat the floor and paint that.

Then onto framing my front wall and maybe bathroom. Haven't decided on whether to do that before or after the spray foam.

Somewhere between having the bus sealed up and spray foaming, I'd like to get my insulated RV windows ordered, likely off eBay. I want to frame them in and get them done before I spray foam. I found a good local contractor to do that. They specialize in commercial and one-off contracts.

I also picked up an old window AC unit for $20. It's small, but I think it'll work. It has been mostly disassembled so I can clean it and re-mount it under the bus floor, I will create a shroud for the cold side and route an insulated duct with inline fan up to the bus floor. I may set a on/off thermostat with a probe in the living space that I can set, that way I don't have to mess with the simple electronic of the unit.
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