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04-23-2018, 01:40 PM
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#181
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 939
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
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"ECCB, I know you weren’t arguing, but I’ve watched the lock discusssion degrade really quickly. Just my two cents though."
I am really puzzled by your comment. If sharing my personal experience with defeating the exact same lock you have and how it was beefed up to make it much much harder to defeat and pointing out the setup you have is very vulnerable with a window right next to two 7/16 nuts that will spin right off..
Well, as was mentioned in my first reply, good luck.
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04-23-2018, 01:47 PM
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#182
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Central MN
Posts: 191
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC RE
Engine: 8.3L
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OK, are we done now?
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04-23-2018, 02:45 PM
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#183
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Texas
Posts: 168
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward Senator
Engine: 7.3
Rated Cap: 78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gustav
OK, are we done now?
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I hope so.
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04-23-2018, 03:10 PM
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#184
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Huntington Beach CA.
Posts: 939
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: T/C 2000 28 foot Handy Bus
Engine: Cummins 5.9 Mechanical
Rated Cap: 2
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Here you go my final post .
Something about horses and water.
Good Luck
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04-23-2018, 03:25 PM
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#185
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Texas
Posts: 168
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward Senator
Engine: 7.3
Rated Cap: 78
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Yeaup. You can find a lock-picking video for every kind of lock. That doesn’t make it a weak lock.
ANY lock on ANY bus is weak compared to a brick to the windscreen. If they want to get in, they’re getting in. It’s about preventing opportunistic crime. That lock picking video took the guy a few minutes to finally get at it. An angle grinder would be the same. If someone wants to get in, they’re getting in.
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04-23-2018, 03:48 PM
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#186
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velocipedic
Yeaup. You can find a lock-picking video for every kind of lock. That doesn’t make it a weak lock.
ANY lock on ANY bus is weak compared to a brick to the windscreen. If they want to get in, they’re getting in. It’s about preventing opportunistic crime. That lock picking video took the guy a few minutes to finally get at it. An angle grinder would be the same. If someone wants to get in, they’re getting in.
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I tend to agree with all of you
Security is not sold by "device", it is sold by "time".
All security devices can be defeated, even bank vaults which are actually sold by "24 hour", "60 hour", "168 Hour". That's an estimate of how long it would take a professional to get them open.
Similarly with padlocks and deadbolts. The right amount of security is "just a bit stronger than the RV next door".
It helps if the thief has to make a lot of noise to get around your locks.
On a related note ... When hiking in bear country, the best protection is to go with someone you can out-run.
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04-23-2018, 03:54 PM
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#187
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velocipedic
If someone wants to get in, they’re getting in.
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This is why I've got my bus rigged to a RDS-220 (stored in my luggage bay) that's connected to a Metasensor™ Sensor-1 bluetooth tripwire. Someone messes with muh bus? FTW....KABOOM!
On another note, Velocipedic, have you got any details on your roof deck supports/frame? I'm considering the same idea with tube steel and pads bolted to the ribs.
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04-23-2018, 08:57 PM
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#188
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Texas
Posts: 168
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward Senator
Engine: 7.3
Rated Cap: 78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigg
Security is not sold by "device", it is sold by "time".
Similarly with padlocks and deadbolts. The right amount of security is "just a bit stronger than the RV next door".
It helps if the thief has to make a lot of noise to get around your locks.
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This is exactly my thought process.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Bru
On another note, Velocipedic, have you got any details on your roof deck supports/frame? I'm considering the same idea with tube steel and pads bolted to the ribs.
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It’s 1 1/2” steel tubing. I measured out all the distances and put legs every other rib. I made the distance on the sides sturdier because of how I’m going to mount my solar panels, but also because of the curvature of the roof. Every bus is going to be different for the measurements. I wanted the boards to rest on top of the long tubing which is on top of the cross tubing. At the peak of the roof, the tubing is 3” to allow an air insulative layer to cool the bus. I’m using bolts and some of them will have eyelets on the inside for hanging things like hammocks. I’m using “Life Caulk” to seal all the bolt holes, then Rustoleum Rust Reformer as a protective coating on the nuts and bolts.
The metal feet bend to the curvature of the bus when they’re bolted down. I wanted the deck to be able to shear off if I hit something instead of ripping the entire roof off. We’ll just hopefully never have to find out if it worked. I’m using pipe clamps to screw the platforms around the crossbars so I never have to drill into them and introduce water and therefore rust.
Any other questions? I think I covered the basics at the very least. Happy to divulge more. No secrets here. 😬
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04-24-2018, 09:52 AM
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#189
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,428
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velocipedic
This is exactly my thought process.
It’s 1 1/2” steel tubing. I measured out all the distances and put legs every other rib. I made the distance on the sides sturdier because of how I’m going to mount my solar panels, but also because of the curvature of the roof. Every bus is going to be different for the measurements. I wanted the boards to rest on top of the long tubing which is on top of the cross tubing. At the peak of the roof, the tubing is 3” to allow an air insulative layer to cool the bus. I’m using bolts and some of them will have eyelets on the inside for hanging things like hammocks. I’m using “Life Caulk” to seal all the bolt holes, then Rustoleum Rust Reformer as a protective coating on the nuts and bolts.
The metal feet bend to the curvature of the bus when they’re bolted down. I wanted the deck to be able to shear off if I hit something instead of ripping the entire roof off. We’ll just hopefully never have to find out if it worked. I’m using pipe clamps to screw the platforms around the crossbars so I never have to drill into them and introduce water and therefore rust.
Any other questions? I think I covered the basics at the very least. Happy to divulge more. No secrets here. 😬
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That was pretty much my plan as well, though I plan to run the decking lengthwise, instead of across the bus. Our deck will only be about 6'wide x 8' long, so I plan on bolting the legs to each rib and using the cross tubing as a joist for the decking. The span might be pushing the limits for decking (flex-wise) but I want to keep it low and simple, but still provide shading.
One more question: How thick is the steel for the feet, that they'll still bend?
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04-24-2018, 10:11 AM
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#190
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Texas
Posts: 168
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward Senator
Engine: 7.3
Rated Cap: 78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Bru
One more question: How thick is the steel for the feet, that they'll still bend?
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I designed mine for use with treated 2x6 boards at 8’ long. I feel like there’s more support and less possibility for flexing and eventual warping with the boards set up as I have. Don’t forget that boards can warp upward too. I also minimized the number of pipe clamps that I need to use by mounting a panel of them this way. I cut the boards to 31” for the sides and then screwed them into a 2x4 underneath to assemble the panel and then clamp that I to place.
It’s leftover 12ga steel from the walls I welded/riveted in place. I had to cut them to size in order to fit.
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04-24-2018, 10:19 AM
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#191
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 2,233
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I don't know that I would have installed the green treated wood on top of your bus.
The chemicals that will leach out of the wood are pretty harsh and could react very negatively to the paint and steel on the roof of your bus.
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04-24-2018, 10:22 AM
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#192
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 2,775
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Maybe in locations with constant drip drip humidity.
In most spots, where it's either sunny and dry, or actually raining, I can't see it being much problem.
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04-30-2018, 10:03 AM
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#193
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Texas
Posts: 168
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward Senator
Engine: 7.3
Rated Cap: 78
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Moving the Bus and Moving In
So, this weekend I got a lot of work done, but nothing really worth documenting because it was all prepping the bus for the move to a new, larger, more secure, location.
Nothing like getting the bus move underway to put a smile on your face.
The new home for The Derelicte Bus. Horses roaming around with goats and dogs will make for some interesting videos!
Texas can be beautiful sometimes.... sometimes.
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04-30-2018, 02:55 PM
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#194
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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I love that SMILE of yours, Keith!!!
And your love of buses and vespas, of course!
Is that the Bostrom air ride seat I see you sitting on? If so how do you like it compared to the old torture rack?
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04-30-2018, 05:22 PM
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#195
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Texas
Posts: 168
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward Senator
Engine: 7.3
Rated Cap: 78
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The Bostrom seat is marvelous. I wish we had installed it before leaving Florida. I earned my 1000+ mile drive patch though... and on the worst seat imaginable. 🤣
I slept in the bus for the first time last night. It was actually not that bad.
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05-03-2018, 03:08 PM
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#196
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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05-11-2018, 02:35 PM
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#197
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Texas
Posts: 168
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward Senator
Engine: 7.3
Rated Cap: 78
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The current state of the bus. Roof rack is secured and just needs to be caulked.
Making paper designs really makes the project feel more real.
Since I'm living in the bus, having the wheel wells as usable space is a big deal.
Maria inspects everything now.
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05-11-2018, 02:49 PM
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#198
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Awe man, EXCELLENT!!!!!!!!!
Use seam sealant, not caulk!
SO glad to see the bus' continued "growth"... It'll always feel like a child to me lol.
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05-11-2018, 03:03 PM
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#199
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 335
Year: 2004
Coachwork: Corbeil
Chassis: Ford
Engine: Ford PowerStroke Diesel 6.0
Rated Cap: GVWR 11,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Awe man, EXCELLENT!!!!!!!!!
Use seam sealant, not caulk!
SO glad to see the bus' continued "growth"... It'll always feel like a child to me lol.
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Haha you sound like a bio-parent keeping tabs on the baby they adopted out
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05-11-2018, 08:35 PM
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#200
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Texas
Posts: 168
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward Senator
Engine: 7.3
Rated Cap: 78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Awe man, EXCELLENT!!!!!!!!!
Use seam sealant, not caulk!
SO glad to see the bus' continued "growth"... It'll always feel like a child to me lol.
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I’m going marine-grade with this one!
Boat Life Lifecalk Sealant Cartridge, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00144B96A..._isK9Ab5A191KC
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