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Old 05-27-2016, 09:00 PM   #71
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Location: Houston, Texas
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Year: 1946
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The comp is new, so let's hope for a few years there. The biggest problem is that I don't have any under dash area at all, so I will probably have to hang something off to one side or maybe even overhead. The smallest unit I have seen so far is this one...

All New Mini-Kooler AC ONLY small unit

Decent "claims" but no idea if it is worth it or not. But I shouldn't need a lot of output if I can direct it all on the pilot's seat.
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Old 05-27-2016, 11:56 PM   #72
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 7,939
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
The comp is new, so let's hope for a few years there. The biggest problem is that I don't have any under dash area at all, so I will probably have to hang something off to one side or maybe even overhead. The smallest unit I have seen so far is this one...

All New Mini-Kooler AC ONLY small unit

Decent "claims" but no idea if it is worth it or not. But I shouldn't need a lot of output if I can direct it all on the pilot's seat.

these guys make a lot of the units that are designed for limos..

Danhard Inc. Automotive Air Conditioners


anither thought i had is are you doing say a dinette behind ther driver? if so you can [ut an A/C under a seat pretty easily.. and then duct it with flexible duct and surface mount vents... A/C mini split 'Line-hide' makes a great decorative cover for the black automoitive A/C flex duct... you'll see how I do mine once I get it ducted.. im still waiting on the plastic line-hide covers to arrive from big-brown...

the people where I got mine make a ton of stuff..

Evaporators

from mild to wild.. even inwall type where you could mount it in a cabinet...

-Christopher
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Old 05-29-2016, 11:16 PM   #73
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Join Date: May 2009
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Year: 1991
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Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
I got to do some work on the DEV yesterday and today between the raindrops.. amazingly when I ripped a whole crapload of wiring out of my drivers console I didint break anything.. at first i thought havinbg the OEM carpenter wiring diagram posted on the wall was goingto be a godsend.. However in reality hardly a single wire color matches... and in Caprenter's infinite wisdom.. going into the main heater box for the fans.. ALL the wires are orange... every last one of them!!..

alas I accidentilly Deleted the progress pictures of me doing the A/C wiring.. I'll try and take some pics..

BUT TODAY I TURNED UP THE A/C!!

I think its blowing cold air!!



Ok it may be cold but its not right... I believe that the manufacturer sent me a plenum which restricts the airflow too much.. there are 4 round lines of 3 inches and on high fan they almost flap around like firehoses.. so im thinking the air duct pressure is way too high.. so im going to contact them... I did a square inch calculation from the original blower openings 4" x 4" each.. there are 2 of them.. and then the plenum stops that down to the 4 holes.. so im pretty much likely air starving my evaporator... meaning lost capacity...

the gauge reading below shows a head pressure running above where it should be.. (more or less me being a dumbass and charging more 134A in trying to raise the suction pressure.. so its over-charged here.. by quite a bit if I go by the weight calculatuons I shouldve been running on... Low suction pressure CAN mean a Blockage in the expansion valve.. however if thats the case you usually DROP head pressure as the condenser has less work to do.. my subcool was good.. a tad low (over-charged)..

now if we AIR starve an evaporator then the expansion valve gets lost... it sees the coil temp drop quickly and tries to reduce.. the compressor ends up pulling down the load side quite easily... and since my head pressure is still above where it should be... that says ive severely overcharged it... the presence of such cold air also indicates air-starvation ...



my makeshoft 3" duct to the driver dash... Proof-of-Concepting we call this in the DEV world! just to see if one run can keep the driver area cool... it wasnt bad till i was running 65 into the sun... lots of engine heat.. so I'll be running some more air up to the cockpit... also my digital control is just kind of sitting there until I get it mounted up and the top of the electrical cabinet was rusty so its off for now so I can paint it...



tomorrow I'll recover the freon, evacuate and recharge purely by weight,.. im also going to remove that plastic plenum and see if that brings up my suction pressure..
-Christopher
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Old 05-31-2016, 07:47 PM   #74
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 7,939
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
did a little bit of work today on the bus.. and so did other people... !

Look ma!! no cracks!! went and got 6 brand new uniroyal RD30's.. went from 10R22.5 up to 11R22.5 the bus rides fantastic.. and cruises at 65 now without running against the rev limiter!...



then I had to reprogram the speedometer to match the new tires.. on the IHC's that use electrically driven gauges its a matter of running a calculation of how many rotations the driveshaft makes per mile and then setting the switches.. i DO have the FULL charts if any of you with the same dashboard want to reprogram yours..

the switches are on the Top of the cluster so you just need to take out the screws, dislodge the retaining screws and then tilt the panel out.. there are your switches..




here is the manpage for what each bank of switches means..



tyou can also reset your tachometer if it is reading erratic... which mine was WACKO!! my switches didnt match correctly any of the settings listed in the book.. likely one got tripped by accident when they had the dash apart and no one bothered to fix it...



so now I have brand new tires, a tach that works again and a speedo that works..

I also diagnosed why my alternator seems to need to be "excited" to turn on without driving for 5+ minutes.. the 'I' terminal was left empty on it... logic would say that you would just place switched ignition here to give the alternator its VOltage Sense... WRONG! Bosch has internally wired voltage to that terminal a low voltage.. but enouygh that it would break stuff if it was hooked up to main ignition.. so it would try to reverse energize gear connected..

if you start the bus and then apply Ignition+ to that terminal the alternator turns on right away... so the solutuon is to plasce DIODE on that wire so that Ignition+ can flow TO that terminal but not FROM it... a test of this worked perfectly.. so now I just need to solder it up, heat shrink it and make it permanent...

it is indeed nice to learn that I do have a 200 AMP alternator installed.. so the fact I want to add a secoindary "house" battery of 8D and isolate it but charge it from the main system will work perfectly as I have the alternator that will do it..

also added some more freon to the A/C.. seemed to balance out a bit.. not like id expect.. HOWEVER I could be fooled all along.. and it just Under charged the whole time...

-Christopher
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Old 05-31-2016, 08:07 PM   #75
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Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
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Cool, enjoy those new tires man!

Thanks for the great info on the speedo, too.
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Old 05-31-2016, 09:04 PM   #76
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
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Year: 1991
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Chassis: International S3800
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Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
I have the full chart and how to calculate the speedo if yours is off we can probably get you fixed up pretty easily if they kept the IHC dash cluster
-Christopher
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Old 05-31-2016, 10:24 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
I have the full chart and how to calculate the speedo if yours is off we can probably get you fixed up pretty easily if they kept the IHC dash cluster
-Christopher
Mines accurate now, but I'm looking to go with the 11R's too.
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:04 AM   #78
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Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
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Year: 1997
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Chassis: B3800 Short bus
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Great to have someone onboard with full International manuals! Some time back I managed to find on the internet a very grainy photocopied, photocopied then scanned spreadsheet of DIP switch settings for the dash which was enough to get my speedo accurate, but that was a pain. I'll have to try the tachometer settings since mine hasn't worked since I got the bus
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:14 AM   #79
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
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Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
my tach was just way off and wacko... one of the switches likely got bumped when the dashboard was replaced way back when and they never cared...

if your tach just doesnt work at all , check the sensor that goes into the housing right at the flywheel on the right side of the bus underneath... its not held in really well.. if it gets loose then the tach will just fail to operate.. or if one of the wires goes bad...

-Christopher
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:17 AM   #80
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Join Date: Nov 2011
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Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Ah hah!! Well, since I was sitting having my coffee and checking this forum only 2 feet away from the driver's seat I figured I might as well play with the tach. It's fixed! The dash was set for an International, but being an electronically controlled engine the DIP switches needed to be set for Data Link (or so it seems).
I had previously troubleshooted this issue and found that the appropriate pulses were being sent through the harness all the way to the dash, but didn't know about the switches. Life is good.

Christopher - if it isn't too much trouble - would you post the switch settings for the speedometer? That could prove to be useful for future forum searches.
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