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Old 04-08-2015, 05:39 PM   #51
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,939
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
You don't need to worry about the roof. It's the strongest piece of the bus.

The roof ribs never spread a bit. I braced the body below the windows back to the floor. That I feel was necessary as without them, the body wanted to spread.

I only braced every 3rd vertical support rib. Rub rail below the window keeps the two ribs between in line.

All the info is in my build thread. Along with a ton words and pics.

The roof is so strong, parts of the floor dropped when I cut the vertical support ribs. The roof was holding the floor up, and transferring the weight to another part of the floor.

This is why I think people only raising part of the roof is a bad idea. The roof needs to stay one peice to keep it's structural integrity.

Nat
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Old 04-10-2015, 02:51 PM   #52
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,218
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
Because the conversion process might turn out to be a good memory some day (hopefully!) and because I'm mostly working on it alone and I'm not very good at stopping to take photos of things, I decided the process had to be automated. I formed a little tray for a GoPro camera and mounted it at the front of the bus. It has the "WiFi Bacpac" attached so I can control the camera from my phone. I have USB power connected to both because my work sessions tend to be longer than its battery life. Mostly I keep it set in 5 second time-lapse photo mode with the thought that at the end I'll compile them into a stop-motion video, but once in a while I switch it to video mode if there's something especially interesting going on.
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Old 04-10-2015, 02:53 PM   #53
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,218
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
A few days ago I finished work for the night and paused to plan the attack on the ceiling. Ideas just kind of came together and I thought of a terrible wonderful thing. Before I say any more, let me preface this with the following: For illustration purposes only. Always wear safety glasses. Don't drink and drive. Kids, don't try this at home. Professional driver on a closed course. Whatever.

I discovered that my pin punch fit nicely inside the Harbor Freight air chisel. AWESOME! I think there were 13 ribs with about 22 rivets each on the ceiling, and this little setup knocked the mandrel out of the middle of each of those in under half an hour.
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Old 04-10-2015, 02:59 PM   #54
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,218
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
Last week my twin three year olds were left unsupervised in the project a little too long, and one of them picked up the bottle of air tool oil and spilled some on the floor. I spread wood shavings over the mess to soak it up. In addition to that there is all kinds of dirt on the floor that fell out of the walls, plus a thousand rivet heads, etc etc. I've been delaying sweeping until after the ceiling is dismantled so I wouldn't have to do it twice (it's soooo much work, right?). This becomes relevant later..

Last night I got to work on the roof. I was more than a little disheartened to find that the ceiling is held with steel rivets instead of aluminum, and these don't shear off nearly so nicely. Don't get me wrong; it was doable -- but I'm impatient. I've been wondering for a long time what the plasma cutter would do to rivet heads and I finally found out. It was fantastic. It took about an hour to burn the heads off all of them.



OK, yes, I wear my idiot badge with honor. It wasn't very smart to run the plasma cutter over the oily wood shavings (look closely at the shavings in the middle of the aisle). But all's well that ends well, perhaps, and the work did end well last night.
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Old 04-10-2015, 03:00 PM   #55
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,218
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
Now I'm at the black-stuff-on-ceiling problem that Vlad and EastCostCB lamented about not too long ago. Thanks to them for mentioning that spray foam didn't stick to it very well; now I know I need to deal with it before embarking on the foam. But how? I tried rubbing a small area with a naphtha-soaked paper towel and found that it does dissolve the coating, but that could take a really long time. I've thought about using the paint sprayer to apply repeated coats of naphtha and let it soak a bit, hoping to turn the coating into a gel than can be wiped off.
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Old 04-10-2015, 03:02 PM   #56
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 258
Is that a drift punch?
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Old 04-10-2015, 03:05 PM   #57
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 258
Oh, try MEK on it. You don't want to be around this stuff very long - wear a respirator. But it will dissolve a lot of things that other alcohols and naptha won't. It's one of the few good solvents for epoxy, and might do wonders on your stuff up there.

If you want to minimize your exposure, you might try soaking a rag in solvent and wedging it up there with a plywood or cardboard backer. Let it soak for a good 15 minutes and get in there with a scraper. That might soften it enough to get it off.
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Old 04-10-2015, 03:14 PM   #58
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,218
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
Quote:
Originally Posted by taskswap View Post
Is that a drift punch?
Good question. I think I've called it "drift" in the past, and probably assumed they were synonyms, but recently in the tool aisle noticed the package with punches like this was labeled "pin punch" so that's why I used that term in my post. Wikipedia claims the difference is that the drift is tapered whereas the pin type is consistent thickness. The latter is what I used. (I had also used a nail set for driving mandrels out of smaller rivets, before learning it didn't make any difference on those.)
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Old 04-12-2015, 09:18 PM   #59
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 691
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
For my install, since I elected to use rigid foam insulation on the ceiling, I just left that goo up there.


Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
Now I'm at the black-stuff-on-ceiling problem that Vlad and EastCostCB lamented about not too long ago. Thanks to them for mentioning that spray foam didn't stick to it very well; now I know I need to deal with it before embarking on the foam. But how? I tried rubbing a small area with a naphtha-soaked paper towel and found that it does dissolve the coating, but that could take a really long time. I've thought about using the paint sprayer to apply repeated coats of naphtha and let it soak a bit, hoping to turn the coating into a gel than can be wiped off.
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:24 AM   #60
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: southwest lowsyana
Posts: 542
Year: 1988
Coachwork: ward
Chassis: international
Engine: dt360a
Rated Cap: 65
careful using flammables for cleaning. lots of sparks you dont think about, like brushes in drills, moving metal, hitting a punch with hammer, etc.

kaboom!
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