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Old 04-13-2015, 08:42 AM   #61
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Now I'm at the black-stuff-on-ceiling problem that Vlad and EastCostCB lamented about not too long ago. Thanks to them for mentioning that spray foam didn't stick to it very well; now I know I need to deal with it before embarking on the foam. But how? I tried rubbing a small area with a naphtha-soaked paper towel and found that it does dissolve the coating, but that could take a really long time. I've thought about using the paint sprayer to apply repeated coats of naphtha and let it soak a bit, hoping to turn the coating into a gel than can be wiped off.
I scrape the black stuff with a thick putty knife or chisel, then go at it with a stripper disc on the end of a drill or angle grinder. I'll update my thread in a day or two. Mine had a ton of surface rust under there. Damn leaky roof hatches!
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:08 AM   #62
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As long as there is no rust under that tar, why remove it?

Just spray the spray foam directly onto it.

Even if the spray foam delaminates from the ceiling, it won't matter after the ceiling is finished.

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Old 04-13-2015, 12:14 PM   #63
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I scrape the black stuff with a thick putty knife or chisel, then go at it with a stripper disc on the end of a drill or angle grinder. I'll update my thread in a day or two. Mine had a ton of surface rust under there. Damn leaky roof hatches!
Hallelujah, we're finally at this point, too!
So you have to Remove this stuff to see if there is rust underneath? Won't the rust just visibly come through?

I'm guessing this stuff is some type of sealant?
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Old 04-13-2015, 12:36 PM   #64
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Hallelujah, we're finally at this point, too!
So you have to Remove this stuff to see if there is rust underneath? Won't the rust just visibly come through?

I'm guessing this stuff is some type of sealant?
The stuff on mine is tar-like. It's still a little soft and pliable even after all these years, which is why I didn't really consider sanding to remove it (thinking the paper would just clog with this stuff). It is not applied very evenly -- some places are very thin and dried before they could grab the fiberglass at all; other places are thicker and have a lot of fiberglass stuck in them (another reason not to sand). My guess is that its purpose is to absorb sound, but not very well, and to adhere the fiberglass in place.

As thin as it is I would think any rust would show through. I'm planning to clean up the middle area of each section and not worry about the edges with the hope that foam will adhere well enough to keep itself in place. We'll see how that goes.
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Old 04-13-2015, 01:27 PM   #65
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Here is mine.






once all the asphalt/tar and rust are gone, I apply ospho then Rusty Metal Primer by Rustoleum.
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Old 04-13-2015, 02:00 PM   #66
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As thin as it is I would think any rust would show through. I'm planning to clean up the middle area of each section and not worry about the edges with the hope that foam will adhere well enough to keep itself in place. We'll see how that goes.
Ah I see!


And the rusty tar is definitely noticeable, good to see that picture for comparison!
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Old 04-13-2015, 04:22 PM   #67
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Gross. Does a heat gun soften it at all?
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Old 04-13-2015, 04:31 PM   #68
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Yeah. but I don't think softening it is the way to go. When its soft it gums up the chisel or scraper too easily. Left in its "solid" state it sometimes comes off in strips if you get a good method going.
Its brutal getting this stuff out.
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Old 04-13-2015, 04:37 PM   #69
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we used to use dry ice to remove the 1/8 thick rubber crap on floor boards in cars, it would make it hard and then hit with a hammer and pop it up with screwdrivers into big pcs

not sure if working overhead with dry ice is a good thing tho'
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Old 04-14-2015, 12:12 AM   #70
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I sent a piece of the wall hat channel to that sheet metal shop this morning. I was surprised to get a call back not even four hours later saying the new channel was ready to be picked up! The fit is fantastic. I have one less excuse for dragging my feet about it..
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