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Old 04-14-2015, 08:50 AM   #71
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Year: 1992
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I'm glad you chose the hat Chanel vs tubing.

Looking forward to more pics.

Nat
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Old 04-15-2015, 06:55 AM   #72
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Wow, that place did a great job.

Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
I sent a piece of the wall hat channel to that sheet metal shop this morning. I was surprised to get a call back not even four hours later saying the new channel was ready to be picked up! The fit is fantastic. I have one less excuse for dragging my feet about it..
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:13 AM   #73
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Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
Chassis: International
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If anyone in my area needs any hat channel, hit me up. I'm going to be ordering a bunch from the local fab shop. Will most likely go with 14ga Galvaneal.
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:08 PM   #74
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Year: 2000
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My brother came out to work on the bus with me yesterday. The fiberglass cap (?) that covers the whole rear end kicked our butts. We got the window out and took the hood/door off, but I don't think we got any of the rivets out. We drilled many of them but then couldn't get the remaining body of the rivet to push out through the back. It is glued all the way around too, and I haven't figured out how I'll break that without damaging the fiberglass. So we let that be for now and moved to something else: the rub rail between the doors on the right side. Got that off and then we were so excited we pushed on and removed the front three lower side panels.

Check out that rib between the two windows -- it is filled in! Here is a close-up:

The hat channel has a piece of.. something.. welded inside it. I don't know yet whether it's a closed tube, or an open C or U shape. In any case I'm now even more happy to have picked the "make more hat channel" route -- if not for that, I'd have a stack of square tube and a broken plan for using it.

I guess these might be done this way because of the large windows -- the bus has only half its ribs actually reaching the floor, and each of these has to carry its own weight plus half the weight on the ribs above the windows too. I'll stick to the original plan of extending the hat channel only, and not extend this surprise inner section. Since I'll be adding new full-height ribs in what used to be the middle of most of the windows, I think it should be fine.
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:24 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
If anyone in my area needs any hat channel, hit me up. I'm going to be ordering a bunch from the local fab shop. Will most likely go with 14ga Galvaneal.
Ribs on a Blue Bird Bus are 12 ga, not 14.

Nat
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:33 AM   #76
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I don't have a blue bird, but will build them out of whatever is on my bus. 10, 12, 14... whatever it is.
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:51 AM   #77
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Per the chart at Engineering Toolbox the thickness of 12 ga galvanized is 0.108 inch. With my calipers I didn't find any point so thick as that (thin edges standing up around punches and cuts excepted). IIRC mine measured from 0.074 to 0.085. It's just the average $10 digital caliper, but drills and such whose shank size is known are measured accurately enough with it, so I figured this range of measurements pointed toward 14 ga for mine. Certainly won't hurt anything to go thicker where there's space for that, of course. It wouldn't surprise me to find that the design changed over the years.
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Old 04-16-2015, 10:14 AM   #78
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I figured 14ga from more than a decade of cutting the stuff in a steel shop. I just felt it with my fingers. I'll cut a section out, take it to the shop and buy the steel accordingly.
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Old 04-16-2015, 12:42 PM   #79
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Good point it may change over the years, and per manufacture.

Also our Canadian buses may be built thicker to give longer life before rust out?

Nat
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Old 04-16-2015, 08:37 PM   #80
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Trying to figure out how to break the sealant/adhesive that is between this fiberglass rear cap and the sheet metal -- with minimal damage to the fiberglass so it can be re-used.

A friend suggested... oh, what did he call it... a "buzzy cutter," I think. Also known as "oscillating multi-tool." Maybe that vibrating blade could slide between the metal and fiberglass..? Surely it would shave some fiberglass off the back side, but maybe not too much... Any thoughts about this or another approach?
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