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Old 04-25-2015, 09:18 AM   #151
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,939
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
We got more snow here this morning. However it should be gone by noon.

I linked a few more threads on the first post of this thread.

Engine driven Compressed air for skoolies without air brakes

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/en...tml#post107247

My favorite Build Threads from Pirate 4x4

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f9/my-...tml#post107747

Nat
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Old 04-28-2015, 10:09 PM   #152
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Rated Cap: 72
For future reference, and educational use I will leave this here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Intalleyvision
So I'm convinced to use your method to raise the roof. Could you tell me exactly what you used? It seems like you attached the top of the scaffolding to the roof somehow? Is that correct? And then you just jacked up the scaffolding and therefore the roof?

Michael
Yes, I attached the tops of the scaffold frames to the ceiling in the bus. I also added a brace from the bottom of each scaffold frame, back to the ceiling, one 2x4 on each side.

To attach scaffold to ceiling, I first screwed a 8 foot 2x4 flat on the ceiling, spanning 3 ribs. Screws were number 14 3/8th bolt head screws, 2 inches long. I used two screws into each of the 3 ribs the 2x4 spanned.

The top peg of the scaffold would but up to the 2x4 on the ceiling. Under pressure, the top peg will dig into the 2x4 some. This is normal, and will keep the ped from moving.

Now the braces.
Scaffold uses metal braces that attach to pins that stick out from the scaffold frame. There are four half inch pins per scaffold frame. The bottom two pins are the two we are going to use.

Now drill a hole with a 1/2 inch wood drill bit, about 4 inches from the end of a 8 foot 2x4. That hole is what the 1/2 inch pin slides into.

Now swing the other end up to the ceiling, along side of the 2x4 that is screwed to the ceiling. Use some 3 inch deck screws, and screw into the side of the ceiling 2x4.

This creates the triangulation needed to keep the roof from moving front to rear.

The width of the scaffold frames keep the roof from moving side to side. Just be sure to lift both sides evenly.

When screwing up the jacks, I lifted the front 2 inches, then moved to the back. I kept repeating this till I was up 23 inches.

If you use 4 frames vs 2, you can use the metal scaffold braces, and no 2x4 triangulation brace is needed.

Nat
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Old 05-06-2015, 12:47 PM   #153
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
I traded some work for another bus. It's a Rear engine 96 Cummins 8.3 at 250 hp with a MD3060. 40 feet long, bud tires.

One of the rear radiator supports rusted out, and the shop mechanic took it apart just before Christmas break. He got back 2 weeks later and never put the cooling system back together. Two years later is was still sitting without the cooling system installed.

So now that it's mine, I intend to strip the interior, and put it back together, and make it drivable.

For Now............

Plan was to use it as a parts bus.........We will see....

Video of my favorite method of seat removal. Take out the two chair rail bolts, then do this.




Nat
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Old 05-06-2015, 01:03 PM   #154
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
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Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
Aww come on, be a good sport and set the youtube video to non-private. Please?
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Old 05-06-2015, 01:04 PM   #155
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Rated Cap: 72
Ops.

Sorry, I haven't uploaded anything to you tube in a while.

Should be fixed now. I forgot to press the publish button.

Nat
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:50 AM   #156
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
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Year: 1997
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Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Oi, those are some nice looking rads!

Any chance you can move the driveline from this bus over to the one you've been working on?
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Old 05-07-2015, 10:23 AM   #157
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Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty View Post
Oi, those are some nice looking rads!

Any chance you can move the driveline from this bus over to the one you've been working on?

That is or was my plan.

I own three 5.9 12 Valve Cummins engines. Now I'm thinking of keeping the rear engine bus the way it is for now, just fixing it enough to make it drivable.

I can bump the power up on one of the 5.9's and find a MD3060 to put behind it. The four season prime is definitely becoming a rear engine bus, and getting extended 8 feet at the back.

My wife and I are having a baby in 4 months.

This is the main reason for needing 8 feet more room in the bus. When I started building the four season prime, it was just Shayleen and I. With having a little one, we need room for a bed and a desk. The 8 feet I'm adding will be just the right amount of space.

Nat
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Old 05-07-2015, 10:28 AM   #158
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Join Date: Nov 2011
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Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Well hot damn! Congratulations to both of you!

I'm looking forward to see how you get that additional 8' in length
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Old 05-07-2015, 12:54 PM   #159
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congrates Nat I hadn't caught that before
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Old 05-07-2015, 03:40 PM   #160
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
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Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Congratulations Nat! Talk about distractions. Hope you get a lot accomplished over the next four months.

Thanks goodness...mine is in her 40's now and I'm just beginning to relax a bit! Grandkids are a whole lot easier to deal with.
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