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Old 01-31-2015, 12:43 PM   #31
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
You're so hardcore, man.
I'd be scared of all that rust and crust.
You're kicking its ass!
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Some of this makes me cringe.
I know eh. What looked so minor on the outside, is so severe on the inside.

What makes me cringe is, most people don't dig into it as far as I do to fix it. It's in there, waiting to rust through. I don't like waiting for surprises.

I'm done for today. Up next are roof raise pics.

Nat
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Old 01-31-2015, 12:43 PM   #32
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
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Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 78
Lucky there, my batting was stuck up there with what looks similar to tar. Not sure how I'm gonna get that goo off, its nearly petrified.
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Old 01-31-2015, 12:47 PM   #33
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I'm really looking forward to the roof raise pics. I'm still very much on the fence about doing this to my bus.
I agree about stripping them down. When I had to put in new batteries, I completely stripped, treated, primed, and painted the whole box, tray, etc. new fasteners too. Any time I fix anything I fix it right.
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Old 02-01-2015, 10:11 AM   #34
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Ok, now for the 23 inch roof raise.

First step, remove all the sheet metal from the support ribs and pull out the fiberglass insulation.



And get a 100 count box of #12 3 inch self tapping screws with a 3/8 bolt head.



Then I braced the walls back to the floor with a angle cut 2x4 every second or third support rib. This will keep the walls from pulling in or out.

A single self tapping screw into the floor.



And a wood screw into the support rib.



All 2x4 wall braces in place. In this pic you can see the two blue pieces of scaffold. They are attached to the roof of the bus with two 2x4 braces. One on each side to keep it from moving front to back, but still allowing the screw jacks at the bottom of each scaffold piece to move. At the top of each piece of scaffold is a 2x4 to take the point load, and spread the weight to three of the roof ribs. All 2x4's are secured to the bus ribs with the self tapping screws.

I put lift force on the scaffold before cutting the ribs with the 7 inch grinder to prevent binding the cutting wheel.
The ribs are cut, the weight of the roof is on the scaffold.









By simply turning the screw jacks at the bottom of the scaffold pieces, the roof raises. Here it's up a foot.



In this pic you can see the new section of support rib secured to the second last rib at the bottom with a clamp. Same at the front. This was done at all four corners to act as guide rails. Doing this prevented the roof from moving side to side if a big wind came up.









Nat
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Old 02-01-2015, 10:16 AM   #35
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That's all the time I have today folks. I have to go meet with a engineer this morning.

More pics tomorrow.

Nat
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Old 02-01-2015, 06:42 PM   #36
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Holy ****! The new windshield is going to be HUGE! I'm especially looking forward to seeing how you put that together.
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Old 02-02-2015, 12:50 PM   #37
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Holy ****! The new windshield is going to be HUGE! I'm especially looking forward to seeing how you put that together.

It sure is, and that pic is only 14 inches up. 9 more inches to go.

One thing I like about newer large RV's is their massive windshields that allow the driver and passenger to see the breath taking views of driving through the mountains.

As soon as I drove my bus home I realized I would like the bigger windshield. Despite it being a cab over, the view out the front was not as good as I hoped. Sitting higher increases your visibility all around. However, with the stock size windshield, sitting to high took away from the upper view. My final set up will have a air ride seat, with adjustable peddles and telescopic steering column.

This also eliminates that big, ugly forehead that some of the roof raises have on this site.

Nat
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Old 02-02-2015, 01:11 PM   #38
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Now for more pics.

Now up the full 23 inches.



In this pic you can see the scaffold screw jacks only have so much lift range before you have to reset them for another lift.
To over come this, I used my little red floor jack to support the one corner of the scaffold, lower the screw jack, add more big blocks of wood, repeat.



All 23 inches up from the side.



Now you can see the 2x4 braces that stop the front to rear movement better.



Rear braces.





Here is a better pic of the floor jack, screw jack, and my 2 inch diameter, 16 inch long ABS leverage pipe for turning the screw jacks.





This pic shows the entire setup.



From standing height. Like always, my little red Honda CRX on the job.



Nat
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Old 02-02-2015, 01:35 PM   #39
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
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Year: 1992
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Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
A few of the fellow skoolies here were giving me the gears about wanting to rivet vs welding my support rib extensions in. One of their concerns was the sheer strength of a 1/4 rivet. At over 500 pounds of sheer per 1/4 stainless rivet, I know they would have worked great. However, I didn't find a decent air powered rivet gun in time that could set 1/4 rivets.

So why use 1/4 rivets when 1/4 bolts are cheaper, more available, and I don't need anything special to install them.

This one is temporary, needs to be removed and the rust converted, then painted.

Bottom



The nature of metal. Never perfect, clamp, clamp, and clamp some more for a perfect fit.

Top



Other side.



Por 15's metal ready is sprayed onto the new rib extensions with a hand pump weed sprayer to covert the rust before painting. You can see the difference in color of the rust.



Scaffold on the outside of the bus is much safer to work from than ladders. I will always bring a few pieces with me.



More of the support rib extensions going in.




A good pic of the bracing.



Bottom bolts done, Now for the top bolts.



Nat
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Old 02-02-2015, 01:44 PM   #40
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Nice and strait



All but the first four rib extensions rust converted painted.



Painted with por 15.



Painted vs unpainted.



Had a bit to much paint in my dish and you cant pour in back into the can, so I painted the drive shaft.



Nat
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