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Old 02-02-2015, 01:53 PM   #41
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Are you using any sort of Loctite to make sure the nuts never back off?

Or are you using a nylock type of nut?

My concern with using nuts and bolts is the problem I had with a truck we had years ago that had a canvas covered wagon type of cover over the load area. I was forever having to retighten the nuts because they would shake loose over time. Even using lock washers didn't help all that much.

These many years later with a lot more experience I would have at least peened over the end of the threads to not let the nuts fall off.
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Old 02-02-2015, 01:53 PM   #42
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I ordered 14 sheets of 14 ga galvanized sheet steel at $85 a sheet. This will be my skinning metal, and my sub floor metal. I dont put wood in floors.

My lift in the end is really 22 3/4. This slides the top of my 4x8 sheet 3/4 of a inch under the sheet at the top of the window, and overlaps the rub rail at the bottom of the window by 3/4 of a inch. This allows me to fasten the top, bottom and sides of each panel.







From ground level.



Nat
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Old 02-02-2015, 01:58 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach View Post
Are you using any sort of Loctite to make sure the nuts never back off?

Or are you using a nylock type of nut?

My concern with using nuts and bolts is the problem I had with a truck we had years ago that had a canvas covered wagon type of cover over the load area. I was forever having to retighten the nuts because they would shake loose over time. Even using lock washers didn't help all that much.

These many years later with a lot more experience I would have at least peened over the end of the threads to not let the nuts fall off.
Thx for bringing that up. That's one of the small details I made sure to cover on the build, but was for getting to share. That's what happens when I post things 6 month's after I did them.

All bolts are coated with ample amounts of automotive grade seam sealer. After 3 days or more, the bolt will nearly twist off before the nut comes loose.

It dont take much to stop a bolt from backing off. Simply painting the threads will work. Glue, silicone, ect. Lock tight is nothing special.

Nat
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Old 02-02-2015, 02:07 PM   #44
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14ga? wow thats heavy duty.
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Old 02-02-2015, 03:42 PM   #45
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14ga? wow thats heavy duty.
A few extra pounds, but the way I build the interior will make up for it.

It will also stop 22 rifle rounds. lol

They didn't want to mix and match different gauges on the same pallet.

I sure like the galvanized coating. No flash rusting while I'm trying to work with the metal.

Nat
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Old 02-02-2015, 03:54 PM   #46
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14 ga galvanneal. Nice stuff. I hated working with that day in day out.
I'll be using 16ga galv for mine, maybe even 18 whichever is cheap or free. I got a connection at the shop!
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Old 02-02-2015, 07:10 PM   #47
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Looking forward to your new windshield and the details of how you're doing it!
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Old 02-02-2015, 07:42 PM   #48
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as am I...
Do go on, good sir!
Your ambition is almost contagious. But I think you should weld those uprights. Just gotta throw in my 2 cents on that. Do carry on, though. I'm very interested in seeing how this comes out!
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:49 PM   #49
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I personally would spend way too long welding that bus into a giant one piece steel box, but I understand that sometimes you need to work with what you have. Seeing what you are working with and where you are working makes you my new hero! We'll done and carry on!
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Old 02-03-2015, 09:31 AM   #50
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Thx fellow skoolies.

More pics.

Then I started dealing with the rust at the wall meets the floor. First spray down with por 15's metal ready. The more rust left on the surface, the more chemical you will need to convert it.

This is the first spray down. In total, it took around 6 soakings.



What the metal ready did to the grass.





Next morning the spiders were back.





The second overnight coat and soak with metal ready. You can see the white zinc coating starting to form.





I should have wire wheeled this first to speed the process up.



This pic shows how the entire weight of the walls, and roof ride on the few rivets that attach it to the chair rail. Some ribs have as few as 4 rivets into the chair rail. The fact that they don't connect directly to the floor, and ride on the 1/4 rivets, is why I know welding the rib extentions is not necessary. I'm building and engineering this the same way blue bird did. Rivets and bolts only, no welding. Welding this would have to many disadvantages.



More rust converting over the rear wheel, passenger side.



I still need to cut the skirt post's off.



Remember how bad this looked? This will still need a few more overnight soakings with metal ready.



Then I smashed down a few trees with the bobcat so I had room to work on the drivers side.



Nat
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