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Old 02-03-2015, 09:39 AM   #51
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,939
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Inside shot. Panels are only loosely bolted in two places at the top. You can see we have been fixing rust inside the walls too.



Then I saw this. Expand the pic to see what it is.









Nat
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Old 02-03-2015, 09:55 AM   #52
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,939
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Then I test fit the first window. I wanted this one to be a crank out casement, but slider is all they had in this size.



One more reason for the 22 3/4 inch roof raise. I now have 46 3/4 inches to install my 4 foot high windows.
Windows are just 2 pane sealed builder windows from Home Depo. Available anywhere.

You can see the rest of the windows inside the bus waiting. My brother in law Paul came out to help for the day.



Cutting strapping for the interior from 3/4 fir plywood. 1x4's just split and are crap.



Panels pushed out so we can work from the inside and reach out.



First of many pieces of strapping going on. This row will be attached with self tapping #12 screws. All other rows get bolted with two 1/4 bolts each rib.



One of my employees rust painting the converted areas with por 15



30 inch wide residential foam core steel door inside waiting to be installed.



Nat
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Old 02-03-2015, 10:09 AM   #53
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,939
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Now I wanted to coat and fix every surface that is rusty. This includes inside the support ribs. So how do you get rust converter and paint inside a 1.5x1.5 inch tube?

Like this. Wire and a paint soaked rag, pulled from the top down.







Paint coming out the rivet holes.



Then I had a piece of the 14 ga sheered and formed to fill the old stairwell opening.





And we had to make room in the shed. So my poor old couch had to go.





The couch was unreal strong. So I kept a few of the oak boards.





Making a 4 foot by 5 foot window opening. Before doing this, I found a few factory skoolies with every second rib cut out for windows. This gives me confidence it is more that strong enough.





This is where one side of the kitchen counter will go.



Nat
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Old 02-03-2015, 10:14 AM   #54
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,939
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Now to get this mess out of the way. This is where all the fuses and factory wiring is hidden to the left of the drivers seat. It all needs to go for proper insulating and rust treatment.

First cut. My welding apron is protecting the wires from the sparks.





Being careful.













Nat
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Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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Old 02-03-2015, 10:16 AM   #55
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,939
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Test fitting the passenger side kitchen counter window.









Now for the 30 inch wide, foam core, steel residential door install.



Nat
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Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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Old 02-03-2015, 11:41 AM   #56
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,939
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Now for the 30 inch wide, foam core, residential door install.

I had some pieces of the 14 ga sheered and formed to make the door jams.



This is the bottom of the door jam.



The side that will have the hole for the door lock.





Hinge side of the door jam.



The chair rail will get cut down to 4 inches from the floor. This allows for 4 inches of floor insulation.









And more scrap metal, the pieces I cut out. I also trimmed off the skirt supports.



I cut the bottom door jam to fit.



Generator for charging battery's, running vacuum, ect.







Using a small piece to test fit.





Bottom jam set in place.



Left side jam in place.



Showing how the pieces meet. This will be sealed up with epoxy. The scre is temporary.







Hinge side of the door.



Top





Showing how the jam slid in behind the rub rails.



And I temporally installed a few trim pieces beside the window.



Nat
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Old 02-03-2015, 11:46 AM   #57
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,939
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Then I moved into a hotel.





And I set the door, and a few windows in to test fit.









Nat
__________________
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Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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Old 02-03-2015, 11:50 AM   #58
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,939
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
I got side tracked from the bus with work again. 2.2 km of trail.







Nat
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Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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Old 02-04-2015, 10:09 AM   #59
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,939
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Sorry fellow skoolies, I have to go give photobucket their yearly $50. I didn't think it was due till next month.

Nat
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Old 02-04-2015, 12:37 PM   #60
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,139
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
Are you doing anything in particular to avoid the "oil-can" wave/wrinkle effect when the summer sun comes around? I've read of people fretting about it, and a few descriptions of efforts to avoid it by pre-heating the metal sheets to expand them slightly before riveting into place. Not having much large-dimension sheet experience myself I'm not sure how big a deal it is. Maybe it's less of a problem for people who do smaller pieces, like simply filling the window holes... but mine is probably going to be something like yours with a near total re-skin of the sides. I won't want any waves/wrinkles showing up in mine!
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