The Galloping Goose (for now)

[o1marc]

Nifty tool, what did it cost? I could use one.

[TJones]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Nifty tool, what did it cost? I could use one.

It was around $8 from the local auto parts store. It has several different fin spacings.

Ted

[peteg59]

What caused the fin damage?
Those coolers are protected under a metal "cover" from the pics?

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by peteg59

What caused the fin damage?
Those coolers are protected under a metal "cover" from the pics?

On mine there is no cover on the fin side. I had it balanced on the chair rail and it lost balance and fell against mt knee as I caught it and left a few knee marks in the fins. I started to straighten then with a knife, but it was slow process, so I quit for now. I'll get a tool and mak eit pretty again, and since it's exposed in the gargage, I'll make a screen to cover it.

I see holes for mounting a cover there, but it did not come with one.

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

the manufacturer makes a coil guard to fit that unit that is fairly heavy duty.
might be cheaper in the long run versus material and labor time than to make your own?

[cadillackid]

16 degrees drop on a bus air conditioner is a bit low even with the high humidity... I expect to see closer to a 25 degree drop in a mobile system... were you running high idle when you charged the system? how did you charge it? by gauge? or recover-evacuate and recharge by weight?
-Christopher

[TJones]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

16 degrees drop on a bus air conditioner is a bit low even with the high humidity... I expect to see closer to a 25 degree drop in a mobile system... were you running high idle when you charged the system? how did you charge it? by gauge? or recover-evacuate and recharge by weight?
-Christopher

Christopher,

Thanks for the reply. I was hoping you would have some input.

I thought the temp drop seemed a little low but I wasn't sure for that system and conditions. It didn't take long to cool down the interior of the bus. There is currently no ducting off of the evaporator blowers so that may be messing with my temperature readings.

The system had some refrigerant before recharging. I added refrigerant according to the manual. It says to the run the engine at high idle and charge until the high side pressure reaches 150 psi and then continue to charge until the sight glass on the receiver or liquid line is 1/2 to 3/4 full.

The filter/drier looked like it had been replaced at some point and there was no temperature drop across it which should indicate that it is not restricted.

I've finished straightening the condenser fins and cleaned the evaporator since recharging the system. The condenser fans are all working. The evaporator was dirty enough that it likely cut down on cooling. I'll retest on the next hot day with similar conditions and see if there is improvement.

Ted

[TJones]

Originally Posted by peteg59

What caused the fin damage?
Those coolers are protected under a metal "cover" from the pics?

Fin damage on mine was likely due to rubbing on pine branches. The condenser was full of pine needles. Also it could have been through a couple hail storms. The wire mesh that protects the condenser is pretty light with around 1/2 inch spacing.

Ted

[TJones]

I am mostly done scraping the nasty tar goo off of the ceiling. Now all that is left is to wipe what left with some solvent.

I think this has/will be by far the most unpleasant and time consuming part of my build.

I have more details of my trials and tribulations in the Black goo removal thread.

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/bl...val-25609.html

Ted

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by TJones

I am mostly done scraping the nasty tar goo off of the ceiling. Now all that is left is to wipe what left with some solvent.

I think this has/will be by far the most unpleasant and time consuming part of my build.

I have more details of my trials and tribulations in the Black goo removal thread.

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/bl...val-25609.html

Ted

Congrats Ted!

I was tempted to skip the goo removal but I just couldn't leave it. Too much rust and glad I took the time.

[TJones]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Congrats Ted!

I was tempted to skip the goo removal but I just couldn't leave it. Too much rust and glad I took the time.

Thanks Charlie,

I'll be happy when I'm done with the prep work and can start building

Ted

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Congrats Ted!

I was tempted to skip the goo removal but I just couldn't leave it. Too much rust and glad I took the time.

How much goo did you have in your ceiling?

I have a very light coat in my ceiling. I have no rust and the goo is very well adheared to the metal. I had planned on leaving it there and foaming over it.

Am I missing something?

[TJones]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

How much goo did you have in your ceiling?

I have a very light coat in my ceiling. I have no rust and the goo is very well adheared to the metal. I had planned on leaving it there and foaming over it.

Am I missing something?

In some places it was at least 1/4 inch thick. It would get sticky when it was hot in the bus. I wasn't 100% confident spray foam would stick well to it. It seems there are different varieties of goo maybe some that are less tacky? If your goo stays dry like paint when it get hot its probably ok. Maybe put a little Great Stuff on it and see how well it sticks?

Ted

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

How much goo did you have in your ceiling?

I have a very light coat in my ceiling. I have no rust and the goo is very well adheared to the metal. I had planned on leaving it there and foaming over it.

Am I missing something?

Yes, you're missing out on all the PITA work to remove something that isn't an issue.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

How much goo did you have in your ceiling?

I have a very light coat in my ceiling. I have no rust and the goo is very well adheared to the metal. I had planned on leaving it there and foaming over it.

Am I missing something?

My ward had a VERY thick layer. Not everyone gets stuck with asphalteum but that stuff is formidable.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Yes, you're missing out on all the PITA work to remove something that isn't an issue.

Not an issue for you maybe.
i've posted pics of the nasty rust that my asphalteum ceiling covering hid.

[TJones]

My ebay deal I couldn't pass up although I didn't really need it yet showed up today!

It's a Powertech PTRV-3 3kw diesel generator! It is new and has never been installed. I was able to get it for less than half the price of the current model. The only down side is I think it was manufactured around 2005 so it's a 14 year old new generator.

I haven't had a chance to test run it yet but will later this week. So far it looks good. The engine oil is clean with no moisture. The fuel inlet and outlet were capped with what looks like a light storage oil in the fuel system. The engine turns over easily by hand but it scared the crap out of me when it shot a plug out of the exhaust and hit the wall. I guess the compression is good!

I have to hook up fuel lines, battery cables, the remote coolant reservoir, muffler and a 120v outlet and I should be ready to test it.

Ted

[Sleddgracer]

Originally Posted by TJones

My ebay deal I couldn't pass up although I didn't really need it yet showed up today!

It's a Powertech PTRV-3 3kw diesel generator! It is new and has never been installed. I was able to get it for less than half the price of the current model. The only down side is I think it was manufactured around 2005 so it's a 14 year old new generator.

I haven't had a chance to test run it yet but will later this week. So far it looks good. The engine oil is clean with no moisture. The fuel inlet and outlet were capped with what looks like a light storage oil in the fuel system. The engine turns over easily by hand but it scared the crap out of me when it shot a plug out of the exhaust and hit the wall. I guess the compression is good!

I have to hook up fuel lines, battery cables, the remote coolant reservoir, muffler and a 120v outlet and I should be ready to test it.

Ted

..............................

[EastCoastCB]

That's a good generator. I used to do some plasma cutting for PowerTech. They're near my old job.

[TJones]

I finished setting up the generator so I could test run it tonight. It fired up on the second start attempt. I let it warm up for about 10 minutes before I put a 1500 watt heater on it for a load. After another 10 minutes I added another 1500 watt heater. The engine didn't seem to mind the two heaters at around 3000 watts. I ran it a total of about an hour. I think I'll run it another hour and then change the oil in it. The manual says to change the oil after 50 hours for break in. It seems like a good idea to do it sooner since this engine has a screen instead of a paper oil filter and the screen isn't likely going to collect the smaller wear metal from break in.

Ted