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Old 11-25-2014, 09:19 AM   #121
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Re: The Good Ship Anne Marie

Quote:
Originally Posted by FreedomPanda
You mentioned the construction of the side panels curling under the floor...I have a Gillig, so I'll have to check on their building style, but would you recommend taking the floor up before the side panels?
Thanks for the kind words! Unfortunately, I can't say much about the Gillig walls but it should be fairly easy to tell. If you have a chair rail and the walls are divided into a top and bottom piece, I would be highly suspect. I can't be sure, but this picture suggests you might have that same problem. But again, I know nothing about Gilligs.

Note that on my bus the bottom part of the wall actually goes underneath the steel floor of the body, not just the rubber and plywood, so it shouldn't matter too much which order you go. That said, I'd say do the floors first regardless of your wall situation. Floor demolition is messy, and the fewer crevasses wood and dirt can slip into the better.

Your bus looks awesome! I'll be following along on your build.
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Old 12-04-2014, 02:28 PM   #122
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Re: The Good Ship Anne Marie

Hi,
With respect to the floor and insulation, It appears that you just laid the plywood directly on top of the insulation boards, I've seen others add framing to support the the plywood above the insulation. Have you had any problems with your method? Has the insulation been able to handle the weight and foot traffic?
Thank you
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Old 12-04-2014, 02:45 PM   #123
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Re: The Good Ship Anne Marie

Yup, it is exactly what I've done. I did a bit of experimenting with it beforehand, and found the foamboard I'm using to be fairly strong. The plywood on top distributes the weight out even further, and so far we've had no issues. While I can't say how it will look years down the road, we did have to pull up all that flooring on account of a leak (approx a year after we installed it), and the foam boards had not compressed at all.
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Old 12-05-2014, 04:57 PM   #124
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Re: The Good Ship Anne Marie

Ok sounds good, thanks for the reply.
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Old 12-31-2015, 12:54 PM   #125
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Thanks, all.



Normal #8 1.5" sheet metal screws, not self tappers. We pre-drilled our holes through both the wood and metal with a 1/8" cobalt bit, and used a #8 countersink bit to get the heads nice and flush.

I don't know whether this will be a problem for you or not, but very very occasionally, we'd drill through the wood right into a hole in the rib where a rivet had been. Sometimes, the screw we put in wouldn't hold at all, other times it would. Either way, at this point you're faced with either leaving the screw in and doing the next rib down the line to be sure it stays in place, or putting the whole board into the scrap pile for when a shorter piece is called for.
One thing I have done successfully in the past is to insert toothpicks into a hole that is too large for a screw. This essentially fills up the space and allows you to insert a screw into an otherwise impossible hole. I'm not sure if that would work in your case however it's a nice little trick I have picked up.
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Old 01-05-2016, 09:13 PM   #126
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I was quite enjoying this thread. I'm just a dreamer now, but I would love to do something like this.
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Old 01-05-2016, 09:15 PM   #127
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I was quite enjoying this thread. I'm just a dreamer now, but I would love to do something like this in the future.
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Old 06-05-2017, 02:32 AM   #128
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I'm done with this topic in this build thread. If any member wishes to continue to discuss spray foam, please start a thread, and I will be happy to join the discussion.

Nat
Hey! Wanna drop by my insulation thread?

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/in...ain-17921.html
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Old 09-28-2017, 06:21 PM   #129
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What is the name of the "pro" product please?
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Old 11-24-2017, 09:01 AM   #130
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5/16th" T&G wainscoting -- I see these are 8ft long. Please tell me how wide the ones you used are. The ones I find are 3.5 wide and I wonder if those will conform as beautifully to the curve of the roof as yours does.
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