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Old 02-15-2012, 11:09 PM   #91
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Re: The Hubbly Bubbly Bus!

interesting about the gas in oil.....i/we were watching a drip(i thought was oil) comming off the donut exhaust bolt,hhhhmmmm?
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Old 02-15-2012, 11:10 PM   #92
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Re: The Hubbly Bubbly Bus!

oh and no backfiring what so ever
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Old 02-15-2012, 11:36 PM   #93
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Re: The Hubbly Bubbly Bus!

Quote:
Originally Posted by itsme1738
interesting about the gas in oil.....i/we were watching a drip(i thought was oil) comming off the donut exhaust bolt,hhhhmmmm?
OMG--if its that loaded up with gas, not only are your plugs junk, but your oil is quite diluted. That sure won't help the rings sealing. Check you oil-is the level going up?
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:12 AM   #94
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Re: The Hubbly Bubbly Bus!

bummer, there is no way to directly get ahold of him
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Old 02-19-2012, 05:05 PM   #95
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Re: The Hubbly Bubbly Bus!

we need an update!!!!!
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:18 PM   #96
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Re: The Hubbly Bubbly Bus!

wow, you have some wierd stuff going on with your bus....did the harmonic balancer fall off? and, i wounder why the roter (bug) is not pointing at # 1....good luck with the new carb,plugs,wires...what time thurs are you guys gona work on it?......let us know what happens,you have my #
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Old 02-22-2012, 04:14 AM   #97
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Re: The Hubbly Bubbly Bus!

1966 - 1969 with 2 Barrel Carb
Max Brake Horsepower - 265 @ 4400 rpm (Standard Transmission)
270 - 275 @ 4400 rpm (Automatic Transmission)
Max Torque - 401 @ 2600 rpm
Stroke - 3.781
Bore - 4.0468
Compression - 9.5
Firing Order - 15426378
The #1 cylinder on your 390 is the first cylinder on the passenger side front of engine.
Your stock carb be should set at 2 turns out on each side of the front carb adjustment. Put the #1 cylinder at top dead center and verify that your balancer is set withing 3 degress of 0, then remove your distributer cap and verify the position of rotor bug is at at the begining of the #1 plug contact. Adjust your idle screw in just enough to see the butterflies in your carb move, then turn in 1/4 turn to get started (this will give you a high idle). Verify that all electrical, vaccum, Once you get everything set try to start engine. Once you get it started, lower the idle to around 1,000 rpm then set the timing with timing light to 10 - 12 degress, then lower idle 600rpm and redo timing. (this will allow you quicker adjustment without stalling the engine at low rpm). Once your locked in set the advance to around 35-36 degress by 2800 rpm.

Firing Order

Firing order changes from model to model. Following are firing orders by distributor. The firing order in 260-, 289- and 302-cubic-inch displacement Ford engines is 1 - 5 - 4 - 2 - 6 - 3 - 7 - 8. Distributors in 351W- and 400-cubic-inch engines have a firing order of 1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8. The firing order is 1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8 in 351C- and 351M-cubic-inch engines. For distributors in 352-, 360-, 390-, 406-, 427- and 428-cubic-inch Ford engines, the firing order is 1 - 5 - 4 - 2 - 6 - 3 - 7 - 8. Engines with 429, 460 and 514 cubic inches also have a firing order of 1 - 5 - 4 - 2 - 6 - 3 - 7 - 8.
Cylinder Numbering

Numbering is started looking at the front of the block. In Ford engines with 260, 289 and 302 cubic inches, the cylinder numbering order is, left side 1 - 2 - 3 - 4, and right side 5 - 6 - 7 - 8. Vehicles with 351W-, 351C-, 351M- and 400-cubic-inch motors have a cylinder numbering order of left side 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 and right side 5 - 6 - 7 - 8. Ford engines with 352, 360, 390, 406, 427, 428, 429, 460 and 514 cubic inches also have a cylinder numbering order of left side 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 and right side 5 - 6 - 7 - 8.
Distributor Rotation

The distributor rotation direction in Ford engines with 260, 289 and 302 cubic inches is counterclockwise. 351W-, 351C-, 351M- and 400-cubic-inch engines have a distributor rotation direction of counterclockwise. Ford engines with 352-, 360-, 390-, 406-, 427-, 428-, 429-, 460- and 514-cubic-inch displacement also have a distributor rotation direction of counterclockwise.

Your engine has to have a harmonic balancer; you could not bolt the crank pulleys with out it and the engine would be shaking all over the place with out it.

I also re read your posts and you stated the engine had been rebuilt by the previous owner?
Were you able to verify that really did happen?
Is it really a 390 or a 360?
Did you do a compression check on the engine to see if you hve good compression and the cylinders are close to each other in compression readings?
Spark plug sockets come in two sizes and the weird size you comment about makes no sense.. Yours may be a 5/8 size; or be careful and try a 14mm or 17mm.
You also state the rotor bug is not where it should be; THEN STOP EVERYTHING ELSE AND FIND OUT WHY..
Label the wires at the plug and pull all the plugs so the engine is allot easier to turn over by hand; socket on the crank bolt - watch rotation so you don't loosen it.
Before removing the dist cap use a marker and draw a line on the dist body where the #1 plug wire is; pull the cap off.
Then stick a plastic flexible one but not brittle of soft; those super gulp straws might work - careful you don't drop it down the spark plug hole into the engine cylinder.
DON'T USE A METAL ROD.
Slowly turn the engine over with the socket and put your thumb on the spark plug hole. When the piston is coming up and your getting pressure it is on the compression stroke.
Slowly keep turning the engine over and the straw will be pushed up by the piston; hang on the end of it and carefully guide it so it doesn't bind. When the engine reaches TDC - top dead center it is at that point the plug should fire and the the piston driven down in the power stroke. When the straw stops moving up STOP...
Now look at the distributor bug and see where it is. If everything is okay it should be pointing at the mark you make on the dist. body where plug #1 wire is on the dist cap.
If it is off a Little left or right of the mark you can loosen the dist clap bolt and rotate the dist to line up the rotor bug on the mark.
BUT if it is way off then you may have either installed the dist if you removed it out of time or the cam shaft gears and chain may have jumped timing.
First I would pull the dist clamp bolt and slowly carefully lift the dist up in the block hole while putting some pressure with my hand in attempting to turn the rotor bug; just as it clears the gear on the camshaft it will then turn; turn it a little by one camshaft gear tooth and lower the dist back down; the rotor bug will turn some what as you lower it. That is normal. When it stops it should be very close to the mark on the dist you made. If you have to turn the dist a little to do a final lineup on the mark; not too much or you can't adjust the timing. Keep doing this until you get the rotor bug as near to the mark on the dist. body.
If it did jump the camshaft and crank gear also the timing chain the problem is allot more complicated.

Besides the carb problem as well with all the gas present and you stating you have to do ALLOT of cranking I would also suspect the timing maybe off.
The engine can actually be 180 degrees off in timing and run; low power though. because the number one cylinder would have then become the number eight cylinder; I have seen it happen.
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:58 AM   #98
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Re: The Hubbly Bubbly Bus!

hate to say it and piss people off....but...you need to stop and backup

I would get rid of the mechanic, first clue was thinking the idle air circuit would stop the carb from getting gas,and re wiring the bus when in your words "it ran fine"

since it ran great but died again,did it just stop or did it slowly die like running out of gas.

you need to find out what engine is in it,since the plug wires where replaced and you need to verify the correct fire order.
does that engines distributor spin clockwise or counter clockwise,like was said above find top dead center(on intake stroke) and verify with mark on harmonic balancer.
take dist cap off and mark the position of the rotor button on the dist body.
with cap off turn over engine just enough to watch the rotor button turn,this will tell you which direction the wires go in the firing order.

do you have V at the coil + when the key is in the run position? if so how much?

does it have points or solid state pickup?

you need to get someone to nail the basics down before you throw more money and time at it.

all the wireing to make this run is very basic (does this engine use the ford black brain box for the ignition? if so that can be checked for free at Vato-zone or the like places)


Just remeber it ran and it ran good,it just died

base timing in relationship to the distributor,cam etc. should be fine since it wasnt moved(hopefully that wasnt done)

get firing order verified with #1 pointing at correct plug wire and then the rest in relationship to that engine.

verify V at coil

verify spark from secondary windings(spark plugs)

make sure it's getting fuel.

Lots of little things to check,but it can all be done in a day

sorry for long rant...I have just seen too many people do this and spend lots of money when it was something simple...remember it did run good, you just need to figure out what stopped working to kill the engine(sound electrical, the sparkplugs stopped firing) or fuel related (slow dieing...)
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Old 02-25-2012, 05:12 PM   #99
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Year: 1968
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Chassis: Ford F700
Engine: Ford 390
Re: The Hubbly Bubbly Bus!

We haven't checked the oil to see if it's gone up yet, we can do that probably tomorrow.
I'm gonna have to print out the specs to give to our mechanic friend because we have no idea how to do anything under the hood. (me especially)
The plugs were definitely soaked when we pulled them out, though.
We're gonna get new ones as soon as we can afford to.
It's going to need quite a bit of work, still, but we got a new carburetor on it, and we're working on adjusting the throttle linkage so it'll fit. (with a rat-tail file)
I don't know if any of this is the smartest way to go about it, I mostly just work on the interior.
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Old 02-25-2012, 05:15 PM   #100
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Engine: Ford 390
Re: The Hubbly Bubbly Bus!

And we need to get a bigger battery for it.
We have a car battery in there, thanks to the guy we bought it from and it's just not enough to get her started. :/
Anyone know where to get cheap BIG batteries?
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