The Hubbly Bubbly Bus!

[itsme1738]

i was starting to think along th same lines dd,il try that,being on the road sucks that way!(on a side note i read your entire build thread sunday...nice build! )

[itsme1738]

i will probably stop by this weekend and see what i can do for you!

[gbstewart]

Originally Posted by itsme1738

i will probably stop by this weekend and see what i can do for you!

bring jumper cables, and see if you can start it right off the starter, if it wont turn over, and start , then most likey its the starter, if it starts ok, then you have a wire problem some where in the system, its should be a pretty semple system, Im sure you will have no problem figureing it out.

once again, i think what you are doing for them is really great!! makesm me feel a warm and fuzzie!!

gbstewart

[itsme1738]

just trying to help out.....i will see what i can do....yes i will bring cables and,i have all the tools that we could possably need,im just afraid of what the homeless guy has done

[Bullwhacker007]

On your 390 Ford is the solenoid mounted on the starter or on the firewall or fender?
Many time a starter problem is in the solenoid; the contacts in them get all burnt up.
It would be allot easier to pull the starter if it is mounted on it and have the starter tested at an auto parts store; most of then do it for free.
Remote mounted starter solenoid you can do a test by using heavy jumper cable to bypass the solenoid and run battery juice directly to the starter and see if it then cranks over; it does then mostly bad solenoid.
The problem in doing this test is you are now dealing with high amps and done wrong can burn you bad or start a fire through a short.
If you do this test leave the ignition off; you are just testing to see if it cranks not trying to start it.
If it does crank you need to then check that "little" wire that energizes the solenoid when you turn the key and use a volt meter and disconnect it; have someone turn the key to the start position and read the voltage; should be at least 12v, it is not find out why.
Another way and more safer is use a good 12v power source; another battery? To just "fire" the remote solenoid and see if it now cranks..

[gbstewart]

thats right , i forgot those fords have a fender mounted solenoid, you can jump to the starter from there, just be carefull!! sparks, and amps
keep us posted
gbstewart

[chev49]

Jumping a ford solinoid is not rocket science. its the very first thing you do when you have power and no start. they are cheap, i keep some on hand for other cars (like chevy can be easily adaped to use them, and many motorcycles like old goldwings, etc )

[itsme1738]

well i didnt make it up there this weekend,dammit,i had to work...i did find 2 new solenoids tho...free,so i will have those in hand

[itsme1738]

i did however just go back on this thread and saw the old silenoid....it looks old....its the 4 terminal unit...im trying to rember if the ones i have are 3 or 4

[bansil]

If I remember correctly the 4th terminal gave the coil a full 12v for starting and then coil was fed about 8v thru the ballist resistor, the 12v helped the engines start easier

I have seen them go bad and when cranking the coil had 0v availible,so no start or it would hit a lick when key was moved from the crank to run position if engine was still turning over

[itsme1738]

what terminals do i use to(jump start it) the two outter large ones,correct....its beeen awhile.....with key on.....hopefullly i will get there soon!
maybe i will get off early and go up this week...i want at least a copule hours of daylight since they have no power.....its a 45 min ride for me and 25.00 in fuel ....i am broke also

[bansil]

you can check the solinoid by putting 12v to the S terminal this should produce a "click" as solenoid activates (becareful if you jump the two large poles there will be alot of amps trying to go between the terminals and will melt small wire.)

verify no start/crank condition

I would check voltage at the large terminal of the solinoid, from battery should be about 12.6V on full charged battery.

while there check starter body for a good ground

now while someones is trying to crank the engine, verify 12 v at the S lead with key turned to crank.
(if no 12 v while attempting to start check fuses and ignition switch)

if there is 12v at the S terminal but no click or crank (solinoid is probably bad)

if solinoid clicks but engine doesn't crank, then put the meter on the "output" lug the one going to the starter and repeat trying to crank with the key, if you have 12v going to the starter and no crank (check starter)

if no output to starter(solinoid is bad)

I reread this and makes since to me....is it too muddy for others to follow?

[chev49]

easy to understand..
if the starter isn't grounded through the bolts...well....starters dont need a ground, but ground strap needs to go to engine block.. that grounds the starter.

if one has a hot lead at the battery side of the solinoid, then a screw driver and/or short wire would easily test things... you gotta make sure the battery has a charge, though.

[itsme1738]

THE BUS......SHE RUNS!!!!

[itsme1738]

runs yes but not out of the woods yet...so i get there pop the hood and look,brand new ballast resistor,new soliniod,new alt,and looks to be new batti check the batt,it has water,12.4 v ok good there! (homeless guy has rigged up a remote starter setup,ok cool just cross these 3 wires (phonewire) and it turns over,when it starts just let off the blue wire,cool this helped me alot) so i crank and crank and..well u get it...nothing....ok starter is ok,now what,got spark? so i pull a plug and yes we got spark but plug is very black,fouled and wet,ok,pull cap,new rotor,points and condensor....and new cap now where to look? pull air cleaner,looks to be a freshly rebuilt 2bbl,manual choke,now what? back to the cap,i pull each wire out of the cap and spread the ends,all tight now then i pull all the plugs out wipe them down with a rag,wire brush them set the gap,try to start,turns over slowly,damm now what?....so i keep trying and trying,then(this is funny) i multi task.....remote start takes 2 hands....so i sit on the inner fender using the said remote and use my foot for the throttle....full throttle for about 6`7 tries and it starts but ROUGH!....ill be back with the rest of the storie

[itsme1738]

ok,it has 2 bad exhaust leaks...ds is the donut,tighten up goes away ps is manifold gasket,bummer,check alt,13.4 good,start messin with carb i get a lower idle but still rough....i notice that (giving it some throttle) fuel is spewing out of the carb!....maybe running a little rich? so they want to move the bus(they got some tickets)and we try and move it.....try....it has NO POWER EVEN IN GRANNY....takes us 4,5 tries to make 70 80 feet,we got it there though around a corner and safe form the cops for a couple of weeks, i think its runnin way too rich,but im no mecanic......any suguestions would be great!
jeff

[chev49]

Maybe the carb has a bunch of water and or junk and plugged jets in it...
If you havent redone carb, you might have some one do it. A kit is not hard to put in one, if the person has done this before. and be sure to clean out all the passages, etc and set the float at the correct level.
I am assuming that your ignition system is in good condition, and the points are set correctly.

[lornaschinske]

David agrees with carb. Kit should solve problem. He thinks the carb is so clean looking due to LOTS of carb cleaner. He thinks since fuel is spewing, it's a bad diaphragm or needle valve. Kits are pretty cheap. Hopefully they can get moving and into a campground. The daytime temps don't look too great and the overnight temps (down to singles digits this week) are deadly. Stay warm! Saying prayers for them (and I don't pray much).

[itsme1738]

They should be online today

[bansil]

The thing that worries me is that it ran but for only so many miles and then quit.
Even if headlights etc on it should of run more than 4miles(or what ever)before it died because of say lack of battery juice.
Then all these new parts were "thrown" on looking for an answer.
Since it start but has a lot of excess fuel coming out of carb.
Is the firing order correct?(this could explain the lack of power)
The normal diagnoses of the accelerator pump being bad is that when throttle is applied,it would hesitate due to not having a "quick"supply of fuel to compensate for throttle valves opening.
Excess fuel may be the result of crap infuel bowl,which holds the needle valve away from the seat,which could cause the fuel bowl to overfill and "spill" into the main orifice,maybe try tapping the carb with a plastic screwdriver end to try and reseat the needle valve.
I would just take carb off and disasseble it and look for crap in fuel bowl area.
Is it 2gc type carb?
Or the holley type 2bl?