The Journey Visvi 1999 Thomas MVP ER

[wmkbailey]

Originally Posted by JakeC

That looks ridiculously cool, like it's ready to pounce, haha!!

Edit: Also, quick question on the welder... did you try replacing the tip? That can make a huge difference. Especially using fluxcore, the tips get fouled easy. I probably have 6 years or so on my Clarke.

It is a cheap Harbor Freight 90 amp welder. I knew it would work on my 30 amp generator. But Porkchop's 120 Hobart is nice. Maybe an excuse to spend more money.

[inkblots84]

Originally Posted by wmkbailey

an excuse to spend more money.

Isn't that part of Skoolie charm?
Best reason to spend money we don't have that I've ever thought of, that's for damn sure.

The bus looks GREAT! Doesn't even look like the same machine! Really is a night and day difference, looks a little more "serious" in a way.

[wmkbailey]

I just posted this on my web site. Bus now and then. Check it out.

http://thejourneyvisvi.com/2013/11/12/bus-then-and-now/

[bansil]

Originally Posted by wmkbailey

I just posted this on my web site. Bus now and then. Check it out.

http://thejourneyvisvi.com/2013/11/12/bus-then-and-now/

You need to take a picture with "finished bus" turned the right way
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Just saying

[wmkbailey]

Originally Posted by bansil

You need to take a picture with "finished bus" turned the right way
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.
.
.
Just saying

I was thinking the same.

[wmkbailey]

I got my batteries delivered today. 6 90 AH AGM batteries. I want about 500 AH and got 540 AH. I found if I got four or more I got free shipping and the 90 AH were on sale. I saved about $200.00. This worked out better for me because each battery is only 63 lbs. The bigger ones were 120 lbs, these will be easier to move.



I have a Inteli-Power 9200 45 amp 4-stage charger that I bought a while ago for the van.



I'm hooking each one up to finish charging, they are all at about 90% when shipped.



I'm not suppose to work on the bus at my apartment, so I waited until the maintenance people left at 3:00 and started in.



Starting to rip up the floor. The lower self over the engine is where I plan to put the batteries. This way they will be close to the alternator and bus batteries. I already have some of what I need left over from my van.



Like my Sure Power 1314 Battery Separator.



My Blue Seas 150 amp Circuit Breaker. This will be between my batteries and the inverter, right noiw I have a 1000 w pure sign wave Xantrex.



And my Xantrex LinkPRO Battery Monitor. Once I get the batteries installed, I will measure and get the cables made and hook everything up.

The first thing I will wire up is moving the Wabasto heat system off the bus batteries. Then add a few LED lights so I can see at night.

I also have a start to the AC side of life.



My 30 amp cable and matching Power Inlet.



And My 120V AC and 12V DC Distribution Panel. I will install a couple outlets and then be able to plug the 30 amp plug into my generator. I will also connect the charger so it will re-charge the batteries.

[Diesel Dan]

Oh boy, I can tell this is gonna be good!

[bansil]

If your going 12v battery bank, won't that only be 270Ah?how much were the batteries?and were did you get them with free shipping?

[wmkbailey]

Originally Posted by bansil

If your going 12v battery bank, won't that only be 270Ah?how much were the batteries?and were did you get them with free shipping?

I'm talking total not usable amp hrs. Usable is debatable, it all depends on how well you can recharge them to full and how far you deplete then. I havea good charger and plan to go down to 40%. That would give me almost 320 AH usable.

But most of the time you are boondocking, you are only quick charging to 80%. That only gives you about 200 AH

I got the batteries at BatteryStuff.com

[bansil]

okay, cool I didn't know how much you knew(didn't want you to be disappointed)

[syke]

Looks freaking awesome! Can't wait to watch this bus come together.

[wmkbailey]

Got home early to start ripping up the floor. I see the light at the end of the tunnel. Can't wait to start building the RV part of this conversion.



Durango surveying the work area.



I picked up this tool, a shingle stripper. Sharpened the end and used it to remove the foam that was still glued to the engine cover.



I was hoping this would get the rubber up also, but the glue is too hard. I tried using my heat gun to soften the glue, it worked, by very slow process.



The passenger side had more rust, one spot at the wheel well is rusted through. The rubber that is left I could not get up.



I tried pulling the rubber on the drivers side and it would not come up, less rust on that side. Wheel well is in very good shape.

All packed away for the drive over to porkchops. He says he has a tool that will get the rubber up, we will see. What i need is a putty knife that works in my air hammer, that would get it up.

[Diesel Dan]

Dang man, what a pain in the ass. I'm thankful mine had plywood under the rubber.

[bansil]

Have fun this weekend....maybe start a thread in everything called "wrench party" and post pics of what got done?

[wmkbailey]

Well it was a pain in the ass.



The air chisel worked, but was slow and only got an inch strip at a time. I used a 70 in. Tamper Head Digging Bar that weighs about 20 lbs and beat myself and the bus to death until the rubber gave up and came off. This was how Porkchop did his rubber. Of course he said when he got past the rear wheel wells it come up in big sheets.



These were the biggest sheets I got up, they where only 4" wide. Most of the rubber came up in small pieces.



Lunch break.

Four hrs later and I got the middle and passenger side done up to the front wheel well. The last 2' section did come up int one piece, I was so happy I started dancing around the bus. Sorry no photo.



Prokchop and a friend was trying to get his bus ready to do some painting, but the weather did not behave.



Here are the colors he is choosing from. The favorite is the middle green.

I worked an hour more and got past the emergency door on the drivers side. I was hoping to get all the rubber up today, but it did not happen. I noticed I did not have the energy to swing that 20 lb Digging Bar any more. I should sleep good tonight, but not looking forward to doing this again tomorrow. I think I would have more fun slaming my hand in a car door.

[wmkbailey]

I decided to take a break from the pounding to get the rubber up and run some 120 VAC. It was hard but I finally decided where to cut the hole for my power inlet.







I wanted it to come into the bus, so I wouldn't have to worry about sealing the back.



I ran 10 GA from the power inlet to the distribution panel. Yes that is mold on the wall, I picked up some stuff that will get rid of it today.



I ran 12 GA to three outlets. I know it is over kill for 15 amp, but it is leftover I had on hand.





Now the bus has power. OK now the fun stuff is done, time to get busy.



Three hrs just to get from the divers side back wheel well (at bottom of photo) to the front wheel well.



The middle walkway rubber came up in one piece. Never thought I would be so happy to see rust.



Got the passenger side done all the way to the front, but I'm ready to call it a day. I still have the drivers side to finish. It is nice not to trip over all the cords I had to use before. This is temporary until I figure out where to run my outlets and where I plan to mount the distribution panel.

Edit: I almost forgot I do have a rust through I have to fix.

[Tango]

Hang in there. Rubber flooring glued directly to the metal can be a real bear. But look at the bright side...you can cancel your gym membership without going flabby. And your floor looks better than most I've seen done that way. For some reason, the rubber seems to generate more rust than wood. And wheel wells are nearly always the weak points on these rigs so no big surprise there.

Lookin' good.

[sdwarf36]

After I had to rebuilt my wheel arches, I wanted to do something that with slow that happening again. I found a roll of thick plastic-which I'm pretty sure was a wall liner of an above ground pool. after all the welding + sealing, I cut a section of the plastic to width-and since it was rolled up when I got it, It already had the shape. So I have a 5 ft? continious piece of plastic covering the whole inside+ left a couple of inches on either end to hang down below the wheel arch/floor. If nothing else, It will act like a big mud flap keeping splash off the arch.

[Tango]

The main issue I have witnessed regarding rust around wheel wells has simply stemmed from the lack of sealing (i.e.; "the gap") between the well and the floor. Rotating wheels toss a lot of water up in there. I just re-installed mine (after lots of cleanup, some rust inhibitor and a little paint)...and this time the gap is thoroughly sealed using modern automotive "seam sealant". Flows nicely and when properly applied forms a truly watertight and very durable seal.

[LuckyChow]

I have a similar power inlet on my bus. I've been wanting one of those right angle inlet cords for a while! Congratulations on picking the perfect combination (IMHO). I really like those marine power inlets.