The Journey Visvi 1999 Thomas MVP ER

[wmkbailey]

Originally Posted by allwthrrider

My question is can you use window units while traveling? I know you would need to run a generator but point I'm getting at is haven't come across a system for Crown, could a window unit be mounted & ducted some way to use while driving to cool the driver area only?

That is what I plan to figure out. I know that PDBreske did. Check out his post underThe Camel Conversion Project

[Stu & Filo. T]

What do you think of this for spray insulation , it's a DIY kit




http://www.sprayfoamkit.com/videos-a-how-tos/602-setup

[wmkbailey]

Originally Posted by allwthrrider

What do you think of this for spray insulation , it's a DIY kit




http://www.sprayfoamkit.com/videos-a-how-tos/602-setup

I'm planning to use that same foam to spray my last inch of insulation. I wanted to use it for the first 2" but the bus has to be at least 60 degrees before you can spray it. I needed to insulate before my trip. Now I will use it to seal everything up.

[PDBreske]

Originally Posted by allwthrrider

What do you think of this for spray insulation , it's a DIY kit

http://www.sprayfoamkit.com/videos-a-how-tos/602-setup

That’s the kit I used for my walls and ceiling. I started a thread dedicated to my experience: Spray Foam Insulation

[Stu & Filo. T]

Originally Posted by PDBreske

That’s the kit I used for my walls and ceiling. I started a thread dedicated to my experience: Spray Foam Insulation

I see it now thanks, Has anyone actually had problems with buckling yet?

[wmkbailey]

Originally Posted by allwthrrider

I see it now thanks, Has anyone actually had problems with buckling yet?

I won't because I already have 2" of foam board up.

It looked like PDBreske had some foam board up too.

[gusbus]

Be sure to check prices on hiring the spray foam done. I sprayed underneath the floor of my bus and it was cheaper to just hire it done than it was to buy the kits. just sayin-

[gusbus]

When I sprayed the bottom side of the floor I didn't have the subfloor on yet. I didn't notice a thing; as far as warping or distortion. I think the cross supports in the floor are closer together. though.

[Stu & Filo. T]

He’s asking (I think) about sheet metal buckling due to the heat generated by the foam curing. It gets pretty hot for a few minutes and the heat can warp thinner sheet metals.

My walls are eighth-inch-thick aluminum and they didn’t warp or bend in any way. I also didn’t notice any warping on the .040 ceiling aluminum, but most of the area I foamed is underneath the roof deck, so I wouldn’t notice it anyway.[/quote]


Bus Conversion Magazine did an article on spray foam insulation. Per the article, because of the heat being generated, excesses of 150 degrees, flat metal may distort. If it is restrained because it is attached to frames or ribs, it will buckle, or oil can, this will make our bus look funny. The curved roof skin will not deform because of the inherent stiffening of the curvature. They recommend applying atleast ½ inch foam board to shield the outside skin, and spraying the over the board.[/quote]

Is this because of chemical reaction when applying or from the heat generated from the sun & radiated back into the metal?

[bansil]

CHEMICAL REACTION I remember trying to make a hand mold out of bondo about 30 years ago shiat was scary and hot until I got it off

[ol trunt]

Its all good. It probably was that exothermic chemical reaction that drove you looney tunes enough to buy a bus. For the rest of us I suspect it was bad genes or sumpin.

[gusbus]

Originally Posted by ol trunt

Its all good. It probably was that exothermic chemical reaction that drove you looney tunes enough to buy a bus. For the rest of us I suspect it was bad genes or sumpin.

Is it bad genes or just simply . . .bad judgment

Oh but I love my PINK bus!!

[Stu & Filo. T]

Question for you, I'm getting ready for my roof raise, I'm going to be cutting back from the forward section a little farther than you did, looks like I'll have about 34 1/2 inches unsupported for awhile, did you have any indication of the fwd portion of your stationary roof trying to sag on you? My plan is to cut the roof just in front of the rib over the rear of the front tire, that rib will be split leaving about 34 1/2 inches being supported by the ribs right behind the small window, what are your thoughts since you've already done this? & others as well please

[bansil]

Before cutting Google this: PD4501 pictures

I always pictures what your doing to end up like a scenicruiser

Or Google scenicruiser pictures

[Stu & Filo. T]

Originally Posted by bansil

Before cutting Google this: PD4501 pictures

I always pictures what your doing to end up like a scenicruiser

Or Google scenicruiser pictures

Right kinda what I'm going for but they where built that way, I'm modifying sure would hate to have it drop down on me

[wmkbailey]

Originally Posted by allwthrrider

Question for you, I'm getting ready for my roof raise, I'm going to be cutting back from the forward section a little farther than you did, looks like I'll have about 34 1/2 inches unsupported for awhile, did you have any indication of the fwd portion of your stationary roof trying to sag on you? My plan is to cut the roof just in front of the rib over the rear of the front tire, that rib will be split leaving about 34 1/2 inches being supported by the ribs right behind the small window, what are your thoughts since you've already done this? & others as well please

It only sagged when i tried to stand on it. If you look through my thread you will see how I supported it to the raised section. The curve off the roof gives it strength.

[Stu & Filo. T]

Originally Posted by wmkbailey

It only sagged when i tried to stand on it. If you look through my thread you will see how I supported it to the raised section. The curve off the roof gives it strength.

I saw that part my concern was before you got it all framed in

[wmkbailey]

Originally Posted by allwthrrider

I saw that part my concern was before you got it all framed in

No, there wasn't any sagging.

[wmkbailey]

Originally Posted by allwthrrider

Sorry wmbailey didn't mean to steal your thread, the wife & I sat in the bus for little more than a hour yesterday discussing what we wanted, the origanal idea was to leave enough driver area for 4 passengers thats why I was planning on cutting where I origanally planned, but we decided to build it stricly for us, 2 people only so I'm moving my cut fwd 17in so the cut will be center of the first full window.

No problem it happens all the time.

I cut my roof right at the window support to give me a secure place to attach everything. I don't know if there will be issues cutting between supports. But for roof sag, I had the whole width of my window sheet metal hanging free before I attached it and it did not sag until I wanted to stand on it. The curve of the roof gives it strength.

[Tango]

Suggestion for any roof raise (I've been there) --- before you do any cutting, cross brace both the roof and the lower section (above & below the cut line). Tack weld something like square steel tube from side to side at least every six feet. Makes maneuvering inside a little trickier but it prevents either section from torquing out of shape. Remember that the existing structure is under stress and I can virtually guarantee you it will try to reshape itself when cut free and being jacked up. Just a question of how much...some move more than others. You can remove the bracing as soon as you have a few of the ribs tied back together and secured in place.

Trying to realign things after it is cut can be done but is a bona fide bitch. Ask me how I know.