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Old 08-25-2014, 09:45 PM   #781
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Re: The Journey Visvi 1999 Thomas MVP ER

It's kind of late to say it now, but using the insulation displacement wiring taps behind a panel where you cannot service them later is not a good idea:

My former service manager was posted to Lake Placid in 1980 to handle problems with radios for security at the XIII Olympic Winter Games. The late '70s Dodges and Plymouths used by police at the time no longer had a spade in the fusebox to supply accessory power like older vehicles did. The 5-amp fuses for the receivers, control units, and transmitter lock-outs were all powered by those blue splices provided by the radio manufacturer, snapped onto a vehicle accessory wire going to or coming from the fusebox. The only failures he had to fix while he was there was hard-soldering the power wires to accessory wires when the blue taps failed. Since I heard that story, I have never used these again.

I would have twisted, soldered and put heat shrink on these wires, the way your stereo was done. That way, I know I could sleep at night. I know you put LED lights on the outside, and I think you said you were going to also use LEDs "so you can see" (inside?). So with the low current of LEDs, the risk of fire from a bad splice is about nil, but it's possible to have the lights become intermittent. With a series of incandescent bulbs strung together, heat in a bad splice could be a more serious issue. I may have seen a semi-melted splice decades ago, but I don't know if I am remembering or imagining it at this point in my life.

Whenever I needed to make a "Y" connection and had to use a crimp connector, I would use a butt splice instead of a tap. I cut the feeder wire, and twisted the new wire with one of the cut ends inserted into one end of the butt. The other cut end goes into the other end. I would usually squeeze the doubled-up end of the butt a little bit to make it somewhat oval, so both wires' insulation would fit inside the plastic butt insulation right up against the splice tube.

My camper built by a maker to remain nameless (Fleetwood) used these taps extensively to roll the units out the door quickly, and I have lots of DC voltage drop problems that I have been hunting down and fixing one by one.

If you have more wiring to do, or if someone else is looking at your project for ideas, I hope to save some possible grief. The advice is free, and is worth at least as much as it cost.
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Old 08-26-2014, 03:29 AM   #782
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Re: The Journey Visvi 1999 Thomas MVP ER

If it helps your build inspired me for the way I'm doing mine. I'm not trying to copy you exactly, but your build is giving me a lot of confidence to proceed since you seem to have retroactively read my mind regarding what I want to do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wmkbailey
No one is following my build any more, woe is me. All these new build to follow and us old timers are history.

I started to install my radio. I miss having music when I drive.

Mounted the antennas first.



A new FM antenna because the old one was broke, and the satellite antenna. It is the small black thing behind the big white thing.

Then I ran all the wiring to the dash first. I'm pulling power from my house battery so I can use it when parked.



I almost forgot the microphone for the bluetooth.



Now everything is soldered to the wiring harness.



I cut out where the gauge blanks were and mounted the radio in the side dash.



I know, very dirty and needs to be cleaned. The override button below the radio is re- purposed as the on-off switch. Now I need to figure out how to install my speakers above the window.
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Old 09-11-2014, 08:56 AM   #783
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Re: The Journey Visvi 1999 Thomas MVP ER

Did you roll on the bus kote with 3/8 nap roller? That's what I'm planning.
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Old 09-13-2014, 08:46 AM   #784
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Re: The Journey Visvi 1999 Thomas MVP ER

I did read the directions but I wonder how much better a 1" nap will be.
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Old 09-13-2014, 10:39 AM   #785
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Re: The Journey Visvi 1999 Thomas MVP ER

I'm not a painter, but my understanding of the different naps is the longer nap is for rougher surfaces. Unless your roof is really rough I would think the 3/8 would be plenty.
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Old 09-29-2014, 12:31 AM   #786
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Re: The Journey Visvi 1999 Thomas MVP ER

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePimentals
I was just at the lumber yard and we talked about any and all possibilities for bending plywood. And there is only one type that will work and it's 53$ a sheet. I've heard that lauan plywood is available with all the grain in the plys going the same direction so that it bends easy but no one there had ever seen that. I wonder if I flip the bead board over if the grooves will act like a kerf and will allow for bending.
Have you looked at Masonite I have used it on lots of projects that need a hard surface but also needs to bend .
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3- ... /202404545

It sounds thin but once firmly attached works well at $13.25 / piece .

Noticed its been a while since the last post it took a while to work my way through all the wonderful pictures and discriptions . We are currently looking for a bus as a next DIY project will warn you in advance plan to scratch off the serial numbers from several of your methods an steal em .
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Old 09-29-2014, 09:24 AM   #787
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Re: The Journey Visvi 1999 Thomas MVP ER

Quote:
Originally Posted by mad_wolf
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePimentals
I was just at the lumber yard and we talked about any and all possibilities for bending plywood. And there is only one type that will work and it's 53$ a sheet. I've heard that lauan plywood is available with all the grain in the plys going the same direction so that it bends easy but no one there had ever seen that. I wonder if I flip the bead board over if the grooves will act like a kerf and will allow for bending.
Have you looked at Masonite I have used it on lots of projects that need a hard surface but also needs to bend .
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3- ... /202404545

It sounds thin but once firmly attached works well at $13.25 / piece .

Noticed its been a while since the last post it took a while to work my way through all the wonderful pictures and discriptions . We are currently looking for a bus as a next DIY project will warn you in advance plan to scratch off the serial numbers from several of your methods an steal em .
Look at teardrop trailer builds, they get luan and beadboard to bend in tight curves. Lots of discussion on which brand to buy (it does matter) and tricks for easing it into a curve.

My planned solution is to run a seam right at the edge of the sharp bend and then hide it behind cabinets or transition to wackywood/bendyboard down to the windows (only need one or two sheets of the expensive stuff that way).

Edit to add link: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21 ... nding+luan
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Old 11-05-2014, 06:35 PM   #788
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Re: The Journey Visvi 1999 Thomas MVP ER

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePimentals
I was just at the lumber yard and we talked about any and all possibilities for bending plywood. And there is only one type that will work and it's 53$ a sheet. I've heard that lauan plywood is available with all the grain in the plys going the same direction so that it bends easy but no one there had ever seen that. I wonder if I flip the bead board over if the grooves will act like a kerf and will allow for bending.
I found out that such a thing exists as a 3 ply birch. VERY flexible. I picked up a bit over $200 worth of the stuff from this place in my area. I have not had a chance to try and put one up yet, but just messing with it, it seems like it'll bend nice and tight. If not i'll soak it or steam it just a bit to get it to bend right. Could probably just put the stuff in the bathroom for a few hot showers before an install if your curve is super tight. My current plan is to cut strips out of the old metal ceiling I have already removed and use those as furring strips to run lengthwise up in the rafters then bolt my birch to that. That way I don't lose but maybe 1/16" of an inch height and still have a strong bond. I would like to use a countersunk screw, but 3/8" isn't a lot of room for a proper fasten using a countersunk screw. might just have to hide all the fasteners into the rest of the carpentry work if i can.

On an opinionated note: I love birch, durable and beautiful.

also: there is a Carter lumber in your area that should be able to order 3/8's birch OR luan. They tend to be a bit pricy on that stuff in my area though, might be different up your way.
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:47 PM   #789
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Anybody know what happened to Mr Bailey??
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Old 01-25-2015, 07:33 AM   #790
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I was wondering the same thing. Come back Bill!!
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