The Journey Visvi 1999 Thomas MVP ER

[Redbear]

It's kind of late to say it now, but using the insulation displacement wiring taps behind a panel where you cannot service them later is not a good idea:

My former service manager was posted to Lake Placid in 1980 to handle problems with radios for security at the XIII Olympic Winter Games. The late '70s Dodges and Plymouths used by police at the time no longer had a spade in the fusebox to supply accessory power like older vehicles did. The 5-amp fuses for the receivers, control units, and transmitter lock-outs were all powered by those blue splices provided by the radio manufacturer, snapped onto a vehicle accessory wire going to or coming from the fusebox. The only failures he had to fix while he was there was hard-soldering the power wires to accessory wires when the blue taps failed. Since I heard that story, I have never used these again.

I would have twisted, soldered and put heat shrink on these wires, the way your stereo was done. That way, I know I could sleep at night. I know you put LED lights on the outside, and I think you said you were going to also use LEDs "so you can see" (inside?). So with the low current of LEDs, the risk of fire from a bad splice is about nil, but it's possible to have the lights become intermittent. With a series of incandescent bulbs strung together, heat in a bad splice could be a more serious issue. I may have seen a semi-melted splice decades ago, but I don't know if I am remembering or imagining it at this point in my life.

Whenever I needed to make a "Y" connection and had to use a crimp connector, I would use a butt splice instead of a tap. I cut the feeder wire, and twisted the new wire with one of the cut ends inserted into one end of the butt. The other cut end goes into the other end. I would usually squeeze the doubled-up end of the butt a little bit to make it somewhat oval, so both wires' insulation would fit inside the plastic butt insulation right up against the splice tube.

My camper built by a maker to remain nameless (Fleetwood) used these taps extensively to roll the units out the door quickly, and I have lots of DC voltage drop problems that I have been hunting down and fixing one by one.

If you have more wiring to do, or if someone else is looking at your project for ideas, I hope to save some possible grief. The advice is free, and is worth at least as much as it cost.

[aaronsb]

If it helps your build inspired me for the way I'm doing mine. I'm not trying to copy you exactly, but your build is giving me a lot of confidence to proceed since you seem to have retroactively read my mind regarding what I want to do.

Originally Posted by wmkbailey

No one is following my build any more, woe is me. All these new build to follow and us old timers are history.

I started to install my radio. I miss having music when I drive.

Mounted the antennas first.



A new FM antenna because the old one was broke, and the satellite antenna. It is the small black thing behind the big white thing.

Then I ran all the wiring to the dash first. I'm pulling power from my house battery so I can use it when parked.



I almost forgot the microphone for the bluetooth.



Now everything is soldered to the wiring harness.



I cut out where the gauge blanks were and mounted the radio in the side dash.



I know, very dirty and needs to be cleaned. The override button below the radio is re- purposed as the on-off switch. Now I need to figure out how to install my speakers above the window.

[ThePimentals]

Did you roll on the bus kote with 3/8 nap roller? That's what I'm planning.

[ThePimentals]

I did read the directions but I wonder how much better a 1" nap will be.

[somewhereinusa]

I'm not a painter, but my understanding of the different naps is the longer nap is for rougher surfaces. Unless your roof is really rough I would think the 3/8 would be plenty.

[mad_wolf]

Originally Posted by ThePimentals

I was just at the lumber yard and we talked about any and all possibilities for bending plywood. And there is only one type that will work and it's 53$ a sheet. I've heard that lauan plywood is available with all the grain in the plys going the same direction so that it bends easy but no one there had ever seen that. I wonder if I flip the bead board over if the grooves will act like a kerf and will allow for bending.

Have you looked at Masonite I have used it on lots of projects that need a hard surface but also needs to bend .
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3- ... /202404545

It sounds thin but once firmly attached works well at $13.25 / piece .

Noticed its been a while since the last post it took a while to work my way through all the wonderful pictures and discriptions . We are currently looking for a bus as a next DIY project will warn you in advance plan to scratch off the serial numbers from several of your methods an steal em .

[r_w]

Originally Posted by mad_wolf

Have you looked at Masonite I have used it on lots of projects that need a hard surface but also needs to bend .
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3- ... /202404545

It sounds thin but once firmly attached works well at $13.25 / piece .

Noticed its been a while since the last post it took a while to work my way through all the wonderful pictures and discriptions . We are currently looking for a bus as a next DIY project will warn you in advance plan to scratch off the serial numbers from several of your methods an steal em .

Look at teardrop trailer builds, they get luan and beadboard to bend in tight curves. Lots of discussion on which brand to buy (it does matter) and tricks for easing it into a curve.

My planned solution is to run a seam right at the edge of the sharp bend and then hide it behind cabinets or transition to wackywood/bendyboard down to the windows (only need one or two sheets of the expensive stuff that way).

Edit to add link: http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=21 ... nding+luan

[Nachowarrior]

Originally Posted by ThePimentals

I was just at the lumber yard and we talked about any and all possibilities for bending plywood. And there is only one type that will work and it's 53$ a sheet. I've heard that lauan plywood is available with all the grain in the plys going the same direction so that it bends easy but no one there had ever seen that. I wonder if I flip the bead board over if the grooves will act like a kerf and will allow for bending.

I found out that such a thing exists as a 3 ply birch. VERY flexible. I picked up a bit over $200 worth of the stuff from this place in my area. I have not had a chance to try and put one up yet, but just messing with it, it seems like it'll bend nice and tight. If not i'll soak it or steam it just a bit to get it to bend right. Could probably just put the stuff in the bathroom for a few hot showers before an install if your curve is super tight. My current plan is to cut strips out of the old metal ceiling I have already removed and use those as furring strips to run lengthwise up in the rafters then bolt my birch to that. That way I don't lose but maybe 1/16" of an inch height and still have a strong bond. I would like to use a countersunk screw, but 3/8" isn't a lot of room for a proper fasten using a countersunk screw. might just have to hide all the fasteners into the rest of the carpentry work if i can.

On an opinionated note: I love birch, durable and beautiful.

also: there is a Carter lumber in your area that should be able to order 3/8's birch OR luan. They tend to be a bit pricy on that stuff in my area though, might be different up your way.

[Stu & Filo. T]

Anybody know what happened to Mr Bailey??

[sojourner]

I was wondering the same thing. Come back Bill!!

[aaronsb]

Yeah where'd you go? Your bus build was the one that kicked me in the pants to do a cab lift.

[wmkbailey]

Hey everyone I'm still around. Ran out of money last spring, seems to be an important item. I do have a refrigerator and 6' sofa. Stated to install walls for the bathroom. I will post what was done and give an update. I plan to rip out what I did and redo it.

[Stu & Filo. T]

Don't feel to bad we started about the same time & your way ahead of me, my hinderance is time

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by wmkbailey

Hey everyone I'm still around. Ran out of money last spring, seems to be an important item. I do have a refrigerator and 6' sofa. Stated to install walls for the bathroom. I will post what was done and give an update. I plan to rip out what I did and redo it.

The only thing constant is change!
Have fun. I'm going back through this thread trying to get myself amped up enough to raise my own roof.

[sojourner]

Glad to hear you're still around!! I totally hear you. Seems that little green item has a way of controlling ll our ventures. I got laid off a few weeks ago and am using up the material I banked for the project. Gonna have to shift gears now and see what I can do while financially challenged. At my stage of the game, there's always rivets to drill. Oh joy .
Where are you these days? Didn't you leave the east coast?

[nat_ster]

Hope things work them self out for you.

I would love to see this build go on.

Nat

[Stu & Filo. T]

Originally Posted by nat_ster

Hope things work them self out for you.

I would love to see this build go on.

Nat

Ditto, don't want to say I stoled alotof ideas from here but will say I found a lot of insperation here

/

[Tango]

The only thing constant is change...except from a vending machine.

[wmkbailey]

We have been doing some camping in the bus. I'm planning to start working on it again. I will post here when I do.

I did some of my walls using the steel framing, but have to rip it out because the screws keep working their way out from the vibration of driving the bus.

I also have an over heating issue to deal with. It over heats on 90 degree plus days going up big mountains at 65 mph.

[milkmania]

Originally Posted by wmkbailey

I did some of my walls using the steel framing, but have to rip it out because the screws keep working their way out from the vibration of driving the bus.

this is good info!

would rivets work? dunno