The Lucinda Lowdown - Page 2

lapeer20m · 08-07-2006, 09:03 AM

the ideal solution would to make the little cabinet that you keep the cylinder in (ie: under the sink) vented to the outside. A cylinder that is in a cabinet that is vented to the outside isn't really in the living quarters anymore. That's how large oxygen cylinders are in all of our ambulances. Just remember that propane is heavier than air and the vent holes should be in the floor.

captainkf · 08-23-2006, 10:21 PM

I have two BBQ tanks (20lbs) stored inside our bus. They are in metal cabinets that are vented outside, with acess doors outside and they work great. If there is a leak (which there isn't) it will leak outside. I do however have a very pricey LP detector, as well as a CO2 detector near the tanks and all the gas appliances in case.

I think it's safer than outside the bus, a rogue rock or crash and they will puncture, however inside the bus they have the protection of the bus's frame. Although I do have a 300 litre tank hanging from under the bus that powers the engine, so...

-Richard

Ryan Grimm · 11-08-2006, 08:53 AM

You CAN make the bus stove moveable!
Propane supplier-type places sell quick-disconnect fittings for propane systems.
Place the tank outside or in a well ventilated compartment that vents outside. Then run your permanent propane lines to the location of the stove INSIDE, and a branch running to where you want to mount it OUTSIDE. I did something similar for a friend; the RV stove was built into a box with good handles, and it could be moved in or out as desired.
There are flexible hoses in lengths up to 12 feet to accomodate this.

The stove was then hung with heavy-duty shelf brackets....one other advantage to this is that it's adjustable in height if needed.
So, again; the RV stove/oven was built into a nice ply box with handles for portability, and mounted using heavy-duty shelf brackets and standards. The propane was hooked up using quick-disconnect fittings.

Unplug from the inside line, lift out the stove and move outside. Hang it there, hook up, and you're good to go.
Kinda like having a 'summer kitchen', keeps the heat out of the bus.

Just look at some of the newer Pop-up trailers, and some of the other RVs with the external stovetop feature. You'll see what I mean.
If you have a Coleman-style propane camp stove, again, you can use shelving components and a propane line hooked to your system to do the same thing. Just make sure the correct regulators etc. are installed to prevent over-pressurizing the stove......

BTW, I came up with this idea 11 years ago, nice to see the multi-billion$$$ RV industry is catching up with some of our ideas

GoneCamping · 11-08-2006, 08:54 PM

Last thing I want to do is crawl under the bus to install tanks, call it age if you like...but I've decided to go a different route. I just got my tank structure in place last week, I put right in the side of the bus....

Ryan Grimm · 11-09-2006, 06:50 AM

Those supply hoses from the tanks to regulator look a little short!
You can get longer ones for less than $15 each (probably MUCH cheaper)at an RV dealer or through a catalog.
Just keep in mind that they are a 1/4 inch REVERSE flare where it screws into the brass connection on the regulator.

BTW, if you get an extra-long supply hose for the tank-to-regulator setup, you can place an extra tank on the ground when parked for a while; no need to place the tank up in the bottle rack that way. Saves lifting a heavy tank at an awkward angle.......

Branden · 03-19-2010, 01:46 AM

In the Gallery section, under the Lucinda gallery.

I worked with local graffiti artists to do a piece around the entire bus, with all sorts of Mexican revolution, labor, and women's history iconography. It's, um, spectacular. Matamuros is the name of the troop, there are three of them, and while they're now scattered bi-coastally, they hail from Seattle.

It's Montana (Spanish) paint, in case you wanted to know. Rattle cans.

dentedvw · 03-20-2010, 06:03 AM

Wow, that must have been a lot of work! Looks neat!

Branden · 03-27-2010, 12:42 AM

Emma--mural close ups now posted in the gallery...lots of them!

Branden · 12-01-2010, 10:01 PM

For the mechanically inclined. I'll also post in Cummins mechanicals. I posted to SkoolieConversions, too. Looking for mechanical answers, and estimates on the damage to my wallet I'm about to incur.

Hi Skoolies,
First the fun: I took Lucinda (1981 BB AA FE) from Seattle to Nevada for her 5th Burning Man this year, as well as a couple weeks in Montana, Idaho, and Wyoming for summer fly-fishing. We made the West Yellowstone paper, what with her sweet murals and my standard poodle traveling companions...skoolie travel is awesome!

Now the backstory: she's an old bus and has been slowly but steadily leaking oil, and it's gotten worse. The last trip in September was the final straw (1 gallon down to Nevada, one back, 1500 miles total). She was also putting out some MAJOR clouds of black smoke (on the previous trip to Montana) when highway driving and letting off the accelerator (say, down a grade) and then stepping on it hard. I attributed it to low oil and new diesel fuel treatments. Maybe-it had somewhat cleared up with an oil add/change. By the middle of the Nevada trip we had to put cardboard under her anytime we stopped--she leaked a tablespoon in ten minutes or so of sitting. Once shut down and cool, though, no more leaking.

But wait, there's more! In the last 150 miles home, an unlabeled red light on the dash came on, with associated scary buzzer, for the first time in my ownership (5 years). It started coming on in the passes of I-5, particularly when going from slogging up to cresting and heading down. We thought it was likely the automatic transmission fluid. The dipstick is a bear to read, so I'm not clear we were perfectly correct in our assessments of levels (very low) but the light went off when we added two quarts. After 75 miles, it all happened again--light, buzzer, refill transmission fluid. We went through TWO GALLONS of automatic transmission fluid before we got home. About 75-90 miles was all we went before lights and buzzing!

Some additional info: the radiator has been (now) diagnosed (with a heat sensor) to be only moderately functional. 40% of it has some amount of blockage and is not heating/cooling the radiator fluid. Up until the last 50 miles of the trip, the engine temp (water) and oil temp gauges were reading fine. Hot uphill, but cooled off right away. The last bit of the trip, though, the oil temp went near redline zone, I don't recall the number but I think around 390. I was able to keep it low enough (below redline) to get home and it's been in the shop on their back burner ever since.

The oil is a leaking valve gasket, easier than expected. The tranny fluid problem, though, is a bit mysterious. Transmission shifts fine, and there are no signs of fluid leaks according to the mechanic. The theory is that the radiator is not working well enough to keep the tranny fluid cool, and it is vaporizing--this idea is supported by some amount of vapor leakage evidence in some seals or something.

So now the question(s) at hand:
The radiator is too old to rod out without damaging it, so I'm thinking of having it replaced. It's a little unclear but it seems like this is basically the only solution (or the band-aid solution of a transmission cooler). The question is, does this sound like the right thing to do, and what should I expect this to cost in rough figures? The mechanic happens to have an old "new" radiator from the same bus, but I don't know what he wants for it, nor a reasonable price. The old radiator is off (to fix the oil leak) so that part of the job is done.

The other question is about the amazing black clouds of smoke. They're not the normal cold-engine smoke, nor are they light gray, or blue. They're black, and full of soot. Enough to cover the back of my bus. Maybe the two problems are related, and I'm burning vaporized transmission fluid? The smoke clouds have mostly gone away, but I hate to not mention useful symptoms...

Ideas GREATLY appreciated. Will share the outcome of the mechanic visit as well.

Drive on,
Branden

BUSBOZO · 12-02-2010, 08:46 PM

You might want to try another mechanic's opinion. Sounds like you have a couple unrelated problems. First of all, I HIGHLY doubt tranny fluid is vaporizing in the radiator. These radiators are not priced like car radiators. They are VERY expensive. Make sure that radiator is bad before you replace it. Sometimes they can be re-cored which would be cheaper than a new one. I would be very interested in that "new" old radiator he has sitting around.

I would have another mechanic take a closer look at all the tranny lines and hoses and see if there is some evidence of a leak. It might only be severely leaking while you are driving and the pressure in the lines is higher than if the bus was just idling.

The heavy black smoke sounds to me like a bad injector or possible injector pump problem. Is the engine running rough?

Branden · 12-03-2010, 12:06 AM

Smitty and Busbozo--the vaporizing transmission fluid is the mechanic's theory. They say they've found evidence of vapor leakage. I have no idea what the heck that might mean.

I don't think they're saying it's leaking *into* the radiator, but rather it's leaking because it's getting so hot because of the faulty radiator, so that the fluid is vaporizing.

This mechanic is the local Blue Bird dealer, they sold the bus and have serviced it for, literally, 30 years. Should I still get another opinion, and if so, how, given the bus is now not drivable (no radiator!)?

The radiator was taken out, brought to a radiator shop, and that shop said it could not be bored out and re-cored, the metal was too old and fatigued. Hence the new radiator idea. I am definitely interested in the old new radiator, and would thing about a salvage yard instead of a new one. I have heard they are expensive!

As for the engine and the black smoke, it's running like a top. Not rough, loud (well, beyond what the 555 is known for) or otherwise problematic. The transmission has also been performing well, and it's been taxed hard over long and steep grades on interstates and smaller state highways. Even with having to fill it regularly, it was shifting smoothly, and making no unusual noises.

oooh, the mystery. if it wasn't my wallet on the line (and my favorite vehicle) this would be way more fun. Thanks, guys!

dirtygoat · 12-03-2010, 04:45 PM

I'm late to the party in this thread... Another Washington guy here... I'm south of Tacoma...

I talked to a lady at our local DMV and told her that Wa doesn't require a WSP inspection anymore and she told me to go get it emission tested and she'll do my paperwork...

I haven't made it down to do the testing yet, still have to finish up the lights...

If you guys don't mind me asking, what was your total for getting the title done???

willem · 12-03-2010, 06:05 PM

I just did mine an hour ago and it cost me $533 (!!!) A "vehicle weight fee" of $155 seemed fishy to me...

Branden · 12-20-2010, 06:09 PM

Thanks, all. Other posts on this thread have been placed in the mechanical area for Cummins:
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=9332&p=68462#p68462

Still no answers, looking at $1200 for a recore, though the transmission cooler part wouldn't be included and I'm concerned that given the age it'll need work, too.

Thinking OEM old stock somewhere for this radiator? The front engine and cummins 555 don't leave much room for a radiator.

Branden

Branden · 12-20-2010, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by willem

I just did mine an hour ago and it cost me $533 (!!!) A "vehicle weight fee" of $155 seemed fishy to me...

yeah, I'm paying something like that, too. maybe a little less. tough to argue when i check my weight on the scales... she's a big girl.

CAMO-MONSTER · 12-21-2010, 04:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dirtygoat

I'm late to the party in this thread... Another Washington guy here... I'm south of Tacoma...

I talked to a lady at our local DMV and told her that Wa doesn't require a WSP inspection anymore and she told me to go get it emission tested and she'll do my paperwork...

I haven't made it down to do the testing yet, still have to finish up the lights...

If you guys don't mind me asking, what was your total for getting the title done???

well in down in southeastern washington and i had it done back in 08 for i think it was $155 title, plates and tabs cause my skoolie was from montana i did it at the walla walla court house. got to love SMALL towns that you do NOT have to have smog tests!!!

Branden · 12-21-2010, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jak

I believe the trans cooler is an external piece (kinda like a radiator that trans fluid goes through) and you should find out if that is the case,,,, if it is you can deal with it later they rarely go bad,,, if its internal and it fails it will put trans fluid into your cooling system and visa versa, coolant in your trany fluid can wreck your trans .....
I wish I had more knowledge of your specific bus so I could be more helpful
good luck
JAK

Thanks JAK, the t cooler in this case is internal to the radiator and doesn't seem to be failing now (no ATF in the coolant now). Their concern is that once they get in there to recore the radiator, they'll have to deal with the cooler, and the potential for it to be broken (perhaps in the process).

I'm wondering about finding the part number and ordering a new one, from a place like this:
http://radiatorgroup.com/bluebirdbusrad ... spx?page=2

But finding a suitable radiator for a 30 year old vehicle might be tough, especially if the mechanic can't find the part number. Of course, I have part numbers for all the body and interior equipment in catalogs, but not the engine. I'm thinking about buying an engine parts manual for the 555, but it's so old I don't know if it's worth the 30 bucks. Anyhow, I don't have parts numbers for the radiator/engine.

B

sportyrick · 12-21-2010, 09:16 PM

Branden: there are a couple of things I want to chime in on. First I have seen quite a few transmissions lately that puke out their fluid from overheating because the cooling system couldn't handle the extra heat from climbing a hill or pulling a trailer, it's not evaporating. Second I had my radiator re-cored for $850 and it's as big as a kitchen table. Also the cooler didn't need replacing and it's from 1976 but of course each job has to be judged separately so yours could be junk. If all you need is for your tubes to be cleaned up there are some acids you can put in there to take care of the mineral deposits. If it's been repaired a couple of times then it's probably wore out. You know BB can probably get you one if you call and ask, they priced me a new one for $1200. And lastly do you have a turbo on your motor? Low compression gives you lots of unburned fuel hence the black smoke. If you have a turbo then your boost may be low so get that checked too. Sportyrick

Branden · 09-02-2012, 01:23 AM

Hi all,
Branden with Lucinda (1981 bluebird All American, Cummins 555, Alison 545 (I think)) here, on the road home to Seattle from Burning Man. We've made it to Klamath Falls, Oregon and *may* be able to find a truck repair shop on Sunday. Here's the problem:

I'm losing power, and the engine feels like it is skipping, or missing, but I'm not sure that's actually what is happening. Given the dusty environs, I thought clogged air filter, but it's clean. I took off the filter anyhow to remove the air feed system as a potential problem.

I thought that maybe we'd gotten some bad diesel, but others at the same station seemed to not to have problems, but who knows if someone added other fuel from a gas can or something...though it seems unlikely.

I had about half a tank and filled up with fresh diesel a half mile after I removed the filter. That half mile with no filter was no better than when we pulled into Cedarville. On a road I'd normally be going 45-50 in Drive, I was having trouble maintaining 40 in 3rd. With the added fuel and sludge and fuel power treatment additives (as normal), we made it up the pass at 13 mph, usually it'd be about 15. We were in 1st and sputtering all the way up.

Once the demand on the engine diminished, I was able to stutter my way to 45, about the right speed for the roadway--and the sputtering feel is reduced with the less torquey higher gears.

We made it to Klamath like that. It's definitely better than 100 miles ago when we pulled in to Cedarville, but we still lose power dramatically on grades.

I'll put another 10 gallons in to dilute the potentially bad fuel, but I'm wondering what else this could be, and what I should do about it on the Sunday of labor day weekend.

There is no leaking at the fuel filter, and fuel taken from there seemed clean and without water.
The bus was serviced a month ago, all new filters.

Fuel pump? Injector? Can I limp back to Seattle or do I NEED to have this fixed now? With the slightly improved performance, does it sound like a bad fuel problem?

Any suggestions much appreciated, we are headed for bed now but will check back tomorrow. I can also be reached by cell: 206-718-five-seven-six-nine. I'm only slightly mechanical, and probably know just enough to be dangerous

Thanks, all.

Branden

chev49 · 09-02-2012, 11:16 AM

It certainly sounds like a fuel supply problem given the fact that you said it worked better after removing the filter.
And, just because a service station said they had good fuel doesn't mean that they do. I only fill at stations that have high fuel volume sales.
One thing we have done with the Raco filters if we think we have a gummed up injector is to drain the filter and put a bottle of the cleaner in the fuel filter and refill it with diesel and run it through the engine... and do it more than once if necessary...
just my 2 cents.

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