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Old 01-01-2007, 08:00 PM   #91
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Aluminium tips

Some helpful hints for aluminum,
When doing the layout work use a sharpie marker, if you scribe your marks, the lines start stress risers that will work harden and crack at some future time.
Learn to work with the grain of the aluminum, if you want to break (bend)the aluminum across the grain, scramble the grain on both sides of the sheet with an abrasive wheel before bending, this helps to prevent cracks.
To anneal aluminum, set your oxy/acetelene torch to the rich mode, yellow flame and lots of black smoke, then soot up the aluminum, with black soot all over the area to be annealed, readjust the torch to heat mode, blue flame no smoke, heat the aluminum with the torch until the soot starts to disapear, remove torch immediatly! Any more heat and the aluminum will puddle on the floor, it still amazes me at how fast aluminum goes from plastic to liquid --- their are no visible indicators to the state change until you have to start all over with new material
Work aluminum slowly, try to never get into a position where you have to use a hammer to form sheet aluminum, take your time, push it, bend it, persuade it, put on your tennie runners and sneak up on it, but don't hit it with a hammer and dollie.
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Old 01-01-2007, 08:20 PM   #92
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Thanks, Paul, you are a veritable fountain of knowledge! Back around 1985,
I crunched a piece of aluminum on an 18-wheeler. Luckily, it was bolted on,
and I had some short 2x4s. When I was done walking on it, you couldn’t really
see that it was damaged, unless the light hit it just right. Yeah buddy, work
WITH the material.

The first sheet of aluminum skin is in place on Millicent. Not fully fastened,
but in position.

Wrestling with that sheet by myself was fun. I slipped the bottom of the sheet
behind the rub rail first -- taking advantage of gravity -- then bowed the sheet
and got the top under the rain lip. But it wouldn’t quite go into place -- gravity
now working against me.



So I C-clamped two scraps of angle aluminum to the edge of the sheet and
hooked a 2” ratchet strap to that -- over the top of the bus. That, plus a hammer,
lifted the sheet into place.


It will never be smooth, but this ain’t no hoity-toity Prevost.
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Old 01-01-2007, 09:06 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliot Naess
It will never be smooth, but this ain’t no hoity-toity Prevost.
Doggonit Elliot, you always keep me laughing. You're a dangerous man when one has just taken a sip of a beverage and then reads one of your posts! That's ok, I have screen cleaner.
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Old 01-01-2007, 09:26 PM   #94
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aluminum tips

There is no reason for you to learn the same way I did. When you get to the annealing stuff it will pay to experment with some scraps before you get to the good stuff, also don't quench the aluminum, that tends to harden it.
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Old 01-01-2007, 09:52 PM   #95
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Quote:
That's ok, I have screen cleaner.
[snickers to self: "Heh, heh, heh... got one!"]
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Old 01-01-2007, 11:31 PM   #96
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Didn't the book say something about zinc chromate primer and galvanic corrosion when using dissimilar metals?
Les; It's your turn your'e the marine electric guru with the dissimilar material experience and knowledge
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Old 01-01-2007, 11:36 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul iossi
Didn't the book say something about zinc chromate primer and galvanic corrosion when using dissimilar metals?
Les; It's your turn your'e the marine electric guru with the dissimilar material experience and knowledge
I don't know about the bus since I'm assuming he's not going to float it in saltwater along with his Kinetic Sculptures, but if you do Elliot then by all means you'll need to isolate those materials!

On a more serious note...I would think that the aluminum and steel wouldn't play well together except that's how just about all of the over-the-road buses are built...steel frames with aluminum skin riveted on. I do know it would be death by sinking on a boat but on a bus
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Old 01-02-2007, 05:14 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliot Naess
. . .It will never be smooth, but this ain’t no hoity-toity Prevost.
Couldn't you use the same c-clamp / strap method to stretch it tight front to back and remove some of the ripples?
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Old 01-02-2007, 05:35 AM   #99
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@ Elliot: I have stumbled over your project while looking for Material about the Blue Bird TC2000.

Do you happen to have blueprints of the bus or know, where I could find them?
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Old 01-02-2007, 08:46 AM   #100
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I am aware of the phenomenon of galvanic corrosion. Kind'a forgot about
it yesterday, but yes, I should separate those materials with paint. And
should probably use stainless rivets.

Yes, I plan to pull the sheet aluminum tight before riveting. When they
install these roofs at work, they pull on it with a fork lift and a long chain.
An other trick is to heat the sheet to expand it. Then is becomes tighter
as it cools. I might try a space heater.

Roger: I have no blueprints. What are you trying to accomplish?

I'll be out of town today; work resumes tomorrow.
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