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Old 01-25-2007, 06:10 PM   #121
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I feel for you. We took VERY careful measurements and laid out a final blueprint of the interior only after MUCH fiddling. In the end, however, it turned out to just be a rough estimate. The combination of seeing stuff actually take up volume, inaccuracies in the oringal measurements (hey...it happens), and little oopses along the way when building (screwing in a bulkhead half an inch off for instance) made things change in a big hurry!
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Old 01-27-2007, 01:21 AM   #122
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Rejoice, ye faithful children of Lord Band-Aid, god of power tools,
-- we are cutting steel again!

Last time I gave this some thought, I considered making a fairly narrow door/ramp
in the back of Millicent -- to keep it simple and quick to complete. Adequate for small
vehicles, or slightly bigger ones if the wheels were replaced with bicycle wheels for
transport.
Harrrrrummmphhh! I must have been in love or otherwise intellectually incapacitated
that day. The ramp is going to be AS LARGE AS POSSIBLE, OF COURSE!

So I did a bit of cutting today. The excitement is back! Sparks! Noise!
Oh, the glory of it!
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Old 01-27-2007, 02:04 AM   #123
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I really am impressed that you've kept everything square through all this. How tall are you going to make the door and would you consider a spearheading a downhill kinetic sculpture race in Duluth, Minnesota?
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Old 01-27-2007, 11:54 AM   #124
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Thanks, but nothing is very straight or square here. But I did park the bus
somewhat close to level by putting scraps of lumber under the tires. I made
the vertical cuts (in that last picture) along the edge of an existing body-
reinforcement -- then discovered that the reinforcement was not vertical,
but leans inward at the top. No problem. I’ll compensate when I build the
door frame. The door/ramp will probably be eight feet tall/long. And I’ll
probably make the beaver tail we talked about earlier -- going out to
decide that now. How do I make such decisions? With a Power Tool.

“Downhill Kinetic Sculpture Race”?
That sounds like the Underground Soap Box Derby held every Halloween in
San Francisco. But you don't need my help to hold such an event.
Just DO IT!

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Old 01-27-2007, 04:02 PM   #125
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When I was living in Denver there were a couple fun events like this. one is the Emma Crawford Memorial Coffin Race:


thats me on the left laying on the Bed of Nails Coffin.

The other was the the Boulder Kenetics Race. it was on land and sea, we did well until a storm started coming in and blew our craft into a cement retaining wall on the reservoir.



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Old 01-27-2007, 05:23 PM   #126
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Crispy, you're all right!
In case you missed it, Millicent's full name is (deep breath)

Millicent, The Kinetic Sculpture Racing Team Mobile Kommand Post and Tea Parlour.

We'll be racing in Boulder in a year or two.
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Old 01-27-2007, 11:13 PM   #127
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We brainstormed about a beaver tail floor a while ago, and with the rear wall
gone, I was almost there. Is it worth the effort? Well, I have struggled to load
and unload Kinetic Kontraptions by myself too many times on the trailer -- which
is only 18 inches off the ground -- so I don’t want the bus floor any higher than
absolutely necessary. Beaver tail it is. And I can happily “lose” the thickness of
the plywood too. I cut across the rubber and plywood with a Skil saw, and pried
the plywood out. There was water in there, but only cosmetic rust.




Two length wise cuts, and two bolts, and the floor is free to be folded up a little.
That gave me room to work and cut “pockets” in the floor joists, so the floor can
come down to the frame.
Now the frame. I’ll cut with the angle grinder and gain another three inches.




To my own surprise, cutting the frame was easy. So... should I make a second
cut, and fold the top flange down and reweld it? Or what if I just force the top....



I didn’t think it would work. But it did! It took just a few minutes of grinding -- and
a bit of Brute Force -- to let the top “pie slice” overlap on the outside of the frame
web. It’s not neat, but we’re not building a watch here! The trailer hitch is back in
position and the entire works clamped snug with a chain. When I clamp the floor
down onto this, the rear edge of the floor will be about six inches lower than before.

Tune in to these same stations for the next episode of Millicent in a day or two.
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Old 02-01-2007, 12:51 AM   #128
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Welcome back to the show, boys and girls.

Today we...

ah... Excuse me for a mome...

Ah... ahhh... ahhhhch, KA-FOOOOOO...


Soddy. Ah habba cod.
Please excuse me a moment while I put the top of my head back on.

There.
Now.
Here is the hinge for the ramp/door in the back. The concept is a big piano hinge
across the door. I rummaged around in the garage and found a five foot length of
5/8 round stock, and a shorter length of... hmmm... elephant rifle barrel, ¼” wall,
¾ ID. So.. 5/8 in ¾ -- just enough slop to work smoothly and not bind up when
the pieces warp from welding. I have learned that there is such a thing as too
much precision. There is not enough pipe to go all the way across for a true
piano hinge, but three pivot points should be plenty. Specially when the main
pieces are fairly heavy wall 2” square tubing. Here is one of the three hinge
segments, assembled and tack welded:



After tack welding, I pulled the hinge pin out for a clearer picture. Again, this is just
one foot or so, of a seven foot long hinge.



Originally, I had planned to build the door frame first, then the door, and then
add a hinge. So much for planning!

Next,...

Ahhh... ahh......

Oh, no...

Ka-FOO...
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Old 02-01-2007, 03:03 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliot Naess

So.. 5/8 in ¾ -- just enough slop to work smoothly and not bind up when
the pieces warp from welding.
You just crack me up. I know exactly where you're coming from on that. I, too, have learned that there is such a thing as too much precision. It's easier just to plan a little wiggle room into everything.
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Old 02-01-2007, 10:55 PM   #130
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Uh... Cracking you up... that's good, right?

A couple of hours a day results in steady progress.

Remember where the last couple of feet of frame rails got tapered down. At the
tail end of that, is where the hinge mounts. I cut 2-inch-square notches in both
rails, and set the hinge in place so the top of the hinge is flush with the
beaver-tailed floor. This is the right frame rail, and the "extra" piece of
steel in the upper left is the right end of the trailer hitch cross tube.



Out goes the wood block and down comes the floor. It will get fastened to the hinge.



The scrap of plywood illustrates the actual ramp/door -- down in the above picture,
and almost up in this shot. Here you also see the hitch, which will be behind the bumper.



Oh... last time we were here, that wonderful Small Angle Grinder croaked. I suspect its
Designed Duty Cycle was exceeded once or twice If I hadn’t worn such heavy gloves, I would
surely have noticed how smoking hot it was getting! I bought another one just like it -- $35.
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