The Millicent Chronicles; two foot roof raise, big tailgate

[bbbrt76]

I'll be happy to get you those pics, as soon as I manage to go get mine from 350 mi away, (hopefully in about 1 week) when I bought it i was planning on cutting a large portion of the body off and making a car hauler out of it, but close reading of NY's registration laws show s me that if I leave it fully enclosed I can register it a passenger van, where as if I cut it I have to register it as a commercial truck, for MUCH more money, so this has me hoping it is wide enough to load most vehicles in and out leaving it completely enclosed, maybe I can turn your roof raise sideways and push the walls out....hmmm

[Elliot Naess]

Aha. Now I'm able to make sense of it.

To maximize the "garage" door width, I would consider removing the entire rear wall. You can legally add three inches on each side (max legal width is 8 feet 6 inches), so you could build a door frame on the outside of the body, and minimize the risk of scraping the car when you drive it in and out. You would then mount all the lights on the "draw bridge".

Having said that.... I'm accustomed to the west coast, where 8 feet 6 inches is universally accepted. You might run into places on the east coast where they still have a local 8 foot limit.

Now... if you must have the absolute maximum possible interior width, how about replacing the rear half of the body with an 8 foot 6 inch cargo box from a truck? You would have to go back to your research and see if that could still qualify as a private van. But just how wide is this car?

Widening the body does not sound realistic to me.

Best of luck with your new purchase!

[CAMO-MONSTER]

Originally Posted by Elliot Naess

Aha. Now I'm able to make sense of it.

To maximize the "garage" door width, I would consider removing the entire rear wall. You can legally add three inches on each side (max legal width is 8 feet 6 inches), so you could build a door frame on the outside of the body, and minimize the risk of scraping the car when you drive it in and out. You would then mount all the lights on the "draw bridge".

Having said that.... I'm accustomed to the west coast, where 8 feet 6 inches is universally accepted. You might run into places on the east coast where they still have a local 8 foot limit.

Now... if you must have the absolute possible interior width, how about replacing the rear half of the body with an 8 foot 6 inch cargo box from a truck? You would have to go back to your research and see if that could still qualify as a private van. But just how wide is this car?

Widening the body does not sound realistic to me.

Best of luck with your new purchase!

UP HERE IN WASH. STATE 8' 6" IS MAX. BUT I THINK THE CARGO BOX MITE WORK. WHAT'S THE DIFRENTS FROM THAT AND A TOY HALLER BESIDES IT A BIGGER TOY IN THARE. YOU MITE TRY FINDING A SEMI TRAILER THAT GOT IN A WRECK, SUME EVEN HAVE INSULATION IN THE WALLS. AND TRY TO SALVAGE AS MUCH AS YOU CAN TO DO THAT HALLER.


CAMO-MONSTER

[Elliot Naess]

I ain't dead yet!

Here is why I am not working on Millicent these days:



All steel, totally fireproof workshop with huge attic. Three years in the planning, and it is finally going up!

No, Millicent will NOT fit inside. I made sure the barn is just a bit too small for that, so I will not be tempted.

[Abbott]

Nice shop Elliot!

[KevinCoughlin]

You COULD work out something with sliding panels and hydraulics, so that the roof lift on Millicent can be variable.... so it drops down a foot or two for parking in the barn *grin*. Think of it as the biggest Westfalia camper van around!

[Elliot Naess]

Originally Posted by KevinCoughlin

You COULD work out something with sliding panels and hydraulics, so that the roof lift on Millicent can be variable.... so it drops down a foot or two for parking in the barn *grin*. Think of it as the biggest Westfalia camper van around!

Hi Kevin, good to hear from you! But nawwww... the way to do it would be to turn the BARN into a Westfalia! But the barn is only 36 feet long, and Millicent is 40+.

Thanks, Abbott! It's a life long dream shop, yes.

[paul iossi]

good start on the shop project, may i suggest that you double the dimensions?

my 7 year old 32x32 shop is busting at the seams and needs at least a 20x32 addition on the east end for dry storage, and yes momma has her new house with a full basement and attached 2 car garage for her collectables, and my stuff still doesn't fit in the shop with enough room to manuver around everything. maybe it'stime to start thinning out my menagery of fine collectables. to many projects and not enough time

[Elliot Naess]

I recognize the problem, Paul!

This "barn" is 24 x 36. Ground floor is almost 12 feet high, so I can suspend light things from the ceiling. Upstairs is same footprint, but the walls taper inward, and I'll be leaving quite a bit open so we can hoist stuff up there. And this barn WILL be big enough, I am determined. Seriously. I expect to put some used pallet racks in there, and what does not fit gets recycled. I want my yard back.

[timbuk]

nice job Elliot are you using the heavy guage steel studs?And some I beams?Metal roofing and siding?$$$$$$$$Nice work Im a big fan of the metal........Timbuk

[Elliot Naess]

The frame is all light gauge galvanized steel, assembled with bolts and screws. No "red iron". Siding and roofing is painted sheet steel.

I see that there is wood inside the core of the personnel door, and the window frames are plastic, but those are the only not-totally-fireproof components I have found.

The upstairs floor is going to be tricky to fireproof. Most people use plywood. I can buy plywood fully encapsulated in galvanized steel, but that's 200 bucks per sheet. (Horse stall panels). Corrugated steel with a thin layer of light-weight concrete is an other option. No hurry with this.

The building system is called OutBack -- originated in Australia. I bought it from these guys -- there are lots of pictures on the web site:

http://www.pacificsteelbuildings.com/

[paul iossi]

1 layer of 5/8" firex drywall with the seams taped and mudded has a 1 hr burn thru rating. also there's fire resistant treated lumber and plywood available for commercial buildings.

I used conventional stick construction 2x6 @24" for my shop and then lined the inside with 5/8 drywall, I bought all the damaged sheets at home depot for $.30 on the dollar, all of the damaged sides disappeared on the first coat of mud and tape and most of the damaged corners were cut off of the trimed sheets. 2 coats of mud, primer and 2couts of semigloss white, then installed 6" treated baseboards 45% bevel on top and caulked top and bottom to prevent sparks and hots from getting inside the walls. electrical is surface mounted in conduit, quad recepticles every 8' @ 52" from the floor plus designated 20&50 amp boxes where needed for major power tools. lots of light, radiant heat in the cieling and 3 paddle fans.
yesiree, it's my super deluxe dream shop

the biggest thing that i didn't do was to get the floor sealed bfore stuff started to migrate inside, now it will be a major project to move everything for the cause.

[timbuk]

Elliot i like it its neet to see steel building kits getin built.Paul your shop sounds great also.Shops rock they are the coolest places my 5 car has 6 and a half cars in it and my 'OFFICE"is full of crap always!But keep buildin them cause we need them FULL Timbuk

[paul iossi]

Elliot;
we need an update on the shop project, it's been 2 weeks and if you,re working at your normal pace the shop is done, you're moved in and now have to cut the backyard

[Elliot Naess]

Alas, my normal pace is actually quite slow. But there is progress -- most is in details that do not look impressive, such as cross bracing. And the big scissor lift has not been back yet. But the lift IS tentatively scheduled for next weekend, and we expect to get most of the framework up that weekend. Meanwhile, I'm assembling sections on the floor, so we can lift them up in one piece.



Three complete roof arches being assembled on the floor.

[paul iossi]

looks like lots of good progress, I'm a big fan of prebuilding assemblies and then installing them when help and the right equipment is available to do the job safely. I also se the engineering "think" chair to sit and study the pieces and parts to determine the next manouver
make sure to straighten and brace the top of the walls before you brace and skin the roof, I got in a hurry and didn't follow my own advice I really hate rework.

[Elliot Naess]

Indeed, a comfortable Thinking Chair is a vital tool in a shade-tree engineers kit!

[Elliot Naess]

Barn is coming along in fits and starts. 99 % of the frame is up, and the siding on two walls. I'm very happy with the roll-up door; I mounted the tracks directly on the tall columns so the door runs straight up. That way it does not interfere with the overhead space, and I will be able to lift things upstairs thru the open first bay of the barn. The door is counterweighted so it moves easily. No springs.





Millicent has made several good trips lately. Last weekend was typical; the Wagners and I lived in Millicent from Thursday to Tuesday and traveled about 1200 miles. And of course, we hauled three Kinetic Racing Sculptures (two inside and one on the trailer).

Aside from the fact that there is still a ton of work to do, we are constantly reminded that we "could'a had a pusher". The heat and noise from the front engine is a serious nuisance. For anyone who does not need to have the tail of the bus open, I say get a pusher.

[paul iossi]

the barn progress is looking good, have you done any research on noise reduction and heat insulation for millicentis engine compartment? Some of the marine soundproofing materials seem to work pretty good, their also products available that the street rod people use that apear to be effective.

[Elliot Naess]

Yes, I have seen pictures of thick "slip covers" over the dog house in the factory WanderLodge versions of these buses. Should be possible to make something like that. And yes, I am familiar with Dynamat and similar insulation used in cars -- works very well.

There is something similar to Dynamat on the inside of the dog house already. In fact, I am impressed with how quiet Millicent IS. But the fact remains that the engine is right there, just inches away from us.

I keep toying with the idea of moving the engine to under the floor like in the old Crowns. Sure would like to ask a Cummins factory engineer if this is feasible from the oil drain-back point of view.