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Old 12-21-2006, 10:48 PM   #21
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Chassis: TC-2000 Frt Eng, Tranny:MT643
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Hi Paul:

You are absolutely correct that -- as I started to hint at -- the strength of
a structure such as these window pillars is almost entirely in the cross
section of the pieces (rather than in the wall thickness). To maintain the
original strength while doubling the length of these window pillars would
probably require them to be... oh, just shade-tree eye-balling in my
mind... four times the size; 8" x 6" instead of 2" x 1 1/2" -- not counting
the "hat brims". (Wild guess just to make a point.)
So your idea of copying the original "hat" profile in "one hat size larger"
is definitely a good step in the right direction.

But I don't know how I would go about it. Much easier for me to just walk
into Blue Collar Supply and fill a shopping list with standard items that
slip inside the original pillars. So I need to reclaim strength some other
way. This will be by welding in cross bracing. Fore-and-aft, I'll simply put
in diagonals in several window openings -- which will be skinned over
anyway. That will make each of those pillars... oh... without going out in
the rain to measure... effectively about 25 inches wide. Across the bus,
I can put bracing in the walls and other bulkheads, such as the bath room
walls and the wall that separates the living area from the "garage". Up
front -- where I'll be sitting when I tip it over! -- will be the
toughest. But there will be something there. Stay tuned to this station.
There will be photos. This little Kodak C310 cost $99,99 and that included
the hose to connect it to the 'puter! And it is easy enough to use that
even I figured it out!

At Ye' Olde Trucking Company where I (sometimes) work we have quite
a selection of crunched equipment in the back yard. When I was hiring
the drivers, I REALLY hated it when "one of my kids" did it! We are up to
around 200 trucks now, and we tip them over... seems like about once
a month.
I think it is something internal in the driver's gut. I sometimes ride with
other drivers, and many of them seem to have no sense of balance.
They fly thru curves like they're in a sports car, and don't seem to notice that
the truck is leaning onto the #$%^&* door handle. Didn't they look up and
gauge how tall that thing was when they climbed in?!

All right. That seemed a bit off topic, but it wasn't really. Making a skoolie
two feet taller is serious business. I'm not going to go on about all the
people who tip their little station wagons over these days.

[scroll proofed]
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Old 12-23-2006, 03:48 PM   #22
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Join Date: Oct 2005
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Year: 1992
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Rated Cap: 84
“Cut on dotted line. Adjust height to fit child. Glue back together. Suitable for all
ages. Copyright Toys-Ain’t-Us.”



Zig-zag in dotted line is to clear door mechanism. Other side is level.

Ohsh... I hope this works! The actual lift is tentatively scheduled for New Years
Weekend.

[sp]
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Old 12-23-2006, 04:05 PM   #23
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You're really going to do this, aren't you?

So is the idea that (across the front) you'll leave just enough material below the cut to fasten the filler material to?

And once behind the door area your cut line drops down below the roof edge to the frames?
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Old 12-23-2006, 04:55 PM   #24
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Yes.

Yes.

Yes.




Right now I am grinding down the rivets that hold the front cap just above
the windshield. I need that narrow strip flat to attach the new skin. I'm
not removing the rivets or loosening the cap; just flattening the rivet
heads. New rivets will go in between the old ones. Above, there will be
only about 3/4 inch lip for the top of the new skin. I'm splitting the cap
in this narrow area because that is the only place it is flat all the way across.
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Old 12-23-2006, 05:45 PM   #25
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Engine: 5,9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 84

2006 December 23. 15:30. Point of no return.

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Old 12-23-2006, 07:32 PM   #26
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That looks serious!

Is that a regular cut-off disc you're using?
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Old 12-23-2006, 08:15 PM   #27
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Clearlake, Northern California
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Year: 1992
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Chassis: TC-2000 Frt Eng, Tranny:MT643
Engine: 5,9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 84
That's an electric "small angle grinder" with a 4 1/2 inch cutoff wheel.
Sliced thru the front cap like butter. I used the same tool with a grinding
wheel to flatten the rivet heads -- also visible in that last photo. In a
couple of spots I could not reach thru the framing with the cutoff wheel,
so I used a SawsAll with a long blade. A Sawsall is a rather violent tool,
and you can dull a blade in a hurry, so I use it only when no other tool
is suitable. In one spot I used a Skil Saw with a 7" cutoff blade, but a Skil
is rather awkward to use in odd positions. The front cap is now separated
back to just behind the door. To be continued.
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Old 12-23-2006, 08:57 PM   #28
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get you some! looking good!
This is proof that I'm not the only one that's not right. I like the rational that filling in windows effectively adds strength probably in the multiple range instead of addative.
In the past I have had sucess having shapes bent up on a brake @ fab shop, steel dealer, your local steel wholesaler that won't sell in small quantities (tonage) can tell you which of his customers can/will help you out, or a large sheet metal shop (industrial duct work) can also help. I have also had a lot of luck by asking for (drops), leftovers behind the sheer that someone else didn't use that are larger than the sizes that I need. Most dealers sell steel by the ton/pound, plus cut fees but you usually pay for the minimum standard size piece, ie; 20'length, or 4' X 10' sheet that your stock is cut from, so it pays to find out what your std stock size is and plan carefully to maximize layout of your pieces. Ask for professional advise and always ask "what question didn't I ask that I should have" before you leave, it's amazing what you will learn and the little tips that are free for the asking.
in reply to the cutoff whee question, my experience is that it pays to buy the better wheels. My welding supply house set me up with thin brandname wheels (Metabo) @ 25% increase in cost over harbor freight wheels, but they last 2 or 3 times longer, that looks like a deal to me.
enuff rambling, have a good holiday
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Old 12-23-2006, 09:19 PM   #29
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With your obsession about rollovers, think about a brave bar aka rollbar hoop over the driver's compartment, it could be disguised as a stripper pole and bulkhead support, bolted thru the floor to brackets bolted to the frame rails. Also, every time you bend a piece of sheetmetal it adds strength-rigidity think corrigated cardbord to strengthen your end caps.
Check with the auto body shop-paint supplier for adhesives,(polyurethane), that technology is kind of like electronics the way it continues to change so fast.
again
Happy Holidays
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Old 12-23-2006, 10:31 PM   #30
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Join Date: Oct 2005
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Rated Cap: 84
Actually, I'm not the least bit worried about tipping it over!

But some of my friends are. And I value my friends. I have some great
friends! That's what it's about. Personally, I'd make it into a folding
canvas-top convertible. But if my Kinetic Racing buddies want something
to be comfortable riding with me, they're gon'na have it.

Of course, there is always that sleepy trucker who could knock Millicent
over with his 80.000 pounds of dollar-truck and canned soup.
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