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Old 12-24-2006, 02:11 AM   #31
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Quote:
A Sawsall is a rather violent tool
*sigh* yes...and thats why I love them......
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Old 12-24-2006, 10:29 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliot Naess
That's an electric "small angle grinder" with a 4 1/2 inch cutoff wheel.
Sliced thru the front cap like butter.
while an excellent tool for cutting through a skoolie, respect must be given at all times. the same tool you're now using cut my finger all the way to the bone in just a fraction of a second while working on my skoolie one morning. That'll teach me to use powertools before my morning coffee.

i posted this some time ago, but i forgot where

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Old 12-25-2006, 12:44 AM   #33
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I hate when that happens, especially when it's me instead of somebody else. Try harbor freight for their $10 for 3 pairs of welding gloves leather with something like 14" length lots of cheep protection for just about everything, fireplace, kitchen, shop, work etc. get enuff pairs that you don't have to look to far to find protection and then yuo won't be tempted to "get stupid".

Question what happened to the daily safety meeting-declaration? IIRC it goes " DON'T HURT ME" now lets get to work.

Keep a good firts aid kit, insurance info, and cell phone handy, the number is 911

enjoy
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Old 12-25-2006, 10:24 AM   #34
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.
Naaaaahhh. I always use my power tools naked and under water.





Skilsaw with 7” cut-off blade went thru window pillar in one pass.



I cut the four pillars where the jacks go -- trying to get everything as
ready as possible for the big day.
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Old 12-25-2006, 06:59 PM   #35
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It’s Christmas, so I’m trying not to make power tool noises in the neighborhood.
Tinkering with floor plan instead. This is a very rough drawing, but it should give
you an idea.



To me, the best drawing is in my head, and after that I just trial fit everything until
it all... uh, fits. Blocks of wood are among my favorite tools. Four of these brand
new Hyundai seats were free -- just luck.

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Old 12-26-2006, 12:19 AM   #36
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After reading for a while on this Forum, I see that there are two “ceiling camps.”
One group takes their ceiling panels out and start from scratch with new
insulation and ceiling.
The other camp leaves their ceiling panels in place.

They are both wrong. The top should be cut off and left off, and a giant Carson
fastback soft-top should be constructed!

I’m leaving my steel ceiling panels where they are, for five reasons:

1: They are held on with three gazillion rivets.
2: There is a meaningful amount of insulation up there already -- see photo.
3: There are three gazillion rivets up there holding them on.
4: The panels add strength to the roof so it keeps its shape better when
separated from the rest of the bus.
5: The rivets; there must be three gazillion of them!



Once we are further along, we can add a second layer of insulation and a nice
soft sound-absorbent ceiling material. The layered look is always fashionable
this time of year.
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Old 12-26-2006, 08:41 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliot Naess

After reading for a while on this Forum, I see that there are two “ceiling camps.”
One group takes their ceiling panels out and start from scratch with new
insulation and ceiling.
The other camp leaves their ceiling panels in place.

They are both wrong. The top should be cut off and left off, and a giant Carson
fastback soft-top should be constructed!
I totally agree...it's my wife that doesn't (she wins)!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliot Naess
I’m leaving my steel ceiling panels where they are, for five reasons:

1: They are held on with three gazillion rivets.
2: There is a meaningful amount of insulation up there already -- see photo.
3: There are three gazillion rivets up there holding them on.
4: The panels add strength to the roof so it keeps its shape better when
separated from the rest of the bus.
5: The rivets; there must be three gazillion of them!
Oddly enough since I'm removing my ceiling panels, I agree. As usual circumstances conspire to dictate one's approach.

- Since ours is to be a liveaboard bus when done I decided that I really wanted the best insulation possible in the roof and I wanted to get a thermal break between the outside metal roof skin and the interior. I could have left the original ceiling in place and done that but the issue is headroom (or lack thereof).

- Looks is important and I need to get rid of the rather large screw heads in the final ceiling finish and the ridges between each panel. I could have done that with another layer of insulation (and accomplished the max insulation requirement too) and then added a nice final covering but the issue is headroom (or lack thereof).

- I'm still not convinced I want (or have the ability) to raise the roof. So far my approach has been to take the inside out to the outside skin and see what it's going to take to get a well insulated bus. If I can do that without raising the roof that's the way I'll go (a definite maybe).

If I had had even 3 more inches of headroom (than I do) I'd have left things alone, added another layer of insulation to the original ceiling, covered it with something nice and called it good. And I can flat guarantee that if my ceiling panels were held in place with rivets rather than Torx head screws they would be staying in place...headroom or no headroom issue...the screws are bad enough.

Ironically, removing the wire chases, the ceiling panels, and the interior part of the rear cap may lead me to raise the roof, which means I wouldn't have had to do all that in the first place! The reason being is I can see now how simple the structure is but I'll really know when I can see the inside of the rear cap and determine where (and if) I can make a cut across the back of the bus above the rear window. Then, since I agree with point 4, I'll wish I had left the panels in place to lend the roof that extra bit of support!

I think you're doing it "just right"...if I wasn't such a chicken I'd be following your lead exactly.
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Old 12-26-2006, 08:21 PM   #38
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Sir Hobart Brown, Glorious Founder of Kinetic Sculpture Racing, once finished
building one of his giant outrageous Machines a few hours before the Grand
Championship, and as soon as he welded the last piece on, he declared it
Ready To Race.

One of his assistants suggested they test it first.

“No!”, laughed Sir Hobart, “If I’m gonna fail spectacularly, I want to do it in front of
everybody so they can all enjoy it!”


That’s what we are doing here. Live and direct (sort’a), we are cutting up a
perfectly good bus and hoping we can put it back together again -- two feet taller.
No test. No retake. No Mulligan. No do-over. No seven second delay. All right,
maybe a seven hour delay to dispose of evidence.


This is the jacking mechanism -- one of four:

Black: Jack post.

Red: Jack parts -- foot, carriage and handle.

Bare steel: Lift Ram.

Yellow: Lift Ears, welded to Lift Ram, they bolt to roof.

White: Lift Guide, bolts to body.

Green: Jack Steady, welded to Guide, keeps Jack from tipping over.



I’m pretty much ready. Maybe Thursday.
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Old 12-27-2006, 09:08 PM   #39
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Daily report: SOME progress each day!

This...



...has the makings of the biggest headache so far. The rear of the bus has a
forward slope in the top half, and I cannot decide what to do with it. There WILL
be a “garage” ramp back here, and I’m NOT including the zig-zag in the ramp.
This matter was brought up earlier and I put it off. But now I need to at least
decide where to cut it for the Roof Lift.

I’m considering taking the top cap loose and extending the roof those few inches,
but it would be a ton of work.

The quick way would be to just “average the angles out” and let the ramp slope
forward to meet the top. This might cause the ramp to be difficult to open, as
gravity would tend to hold it closed, but I could probably fix that with a spring.

The really ugly way would be to let the door frame for the ramp extend past the cap.

Decisions, decisions! Other than that, I’m just waiting for the wind to die
down. Having to retrieve the roof from the neighbor’s yard would be so...
unseemly.
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Old 12-27-2006, 09:31 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliot Naess
The rear of the bus has a forward slope in the top half, and I cannot decide what to do with it.

There WILL be a “garage” ramp back here, and I’m NOT including the zig-zag in the ramp.

This matter was brought up earlier and I put it off. But now I need to at least decide where to cut it for the Roof Lift.
Ok, what if...

The ramp were built with an outside skin that followed the contour of the back of the bus and an inner skin (the actual ramp face) that's flat? It would be angled forward when closed because of the slope of the rear of the bus but it wouldn't have a "kink" in it.

In my head I'm seeing something like a roof truss stood on end (but not such radical angles), flat side toward the front of the bus.

If that worked could you then just cut the back cap as you're doing on the front?

Just wondering out loud...waiting for the wind to die down here too!
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