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Old 06-14-2010, 06:50 PM   #11
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leonidas
Another question, trying to keep them all in this thread...

Does anyone know the laws about seatbelts in skoolies, esp in NC?

I found my seatbelts but theyre 35$ a pop
I pondered a similar question when I started riding mountain bikes. Are we required to wear helmets? Not here, but for $60 a good helmet could save you from living the rest of your life in a hospital bed. Same with seatbelts. They may be required, maybe not, but for $35 a piece isn't it good insurance?
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Old 06-15-2010, 10:44 AM   #12
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

Keep an eye out on things like ebay or craigslist. Even check the local auto junk yards for seat belts.
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Old 06-15-2010, 09:00 PM   #13
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

I was planning on waiting until I'm further along with my conversion to post the "used parts for sale" stuff, but my bus came with lap belts at every seat (72 belts, minus a few that were cut off by vandals). I'm reusing 10 or so for my own, but the rest are first come, first serve. Make me an offer...
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Old 06-17-2010, 01:18 AM   #14
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

so let me get this right. you'll spend $330 for water but not $240 for seatbelts to keep yourself safe?
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Old 06-17-2010, 07:41 AM   #15
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smitty
Quote:
Originally Posted by newtoskool
so let me get this right. you'll spend $330 for water but not $240 for seatbelts to keep yourself safe?
lol.....without seatbelts he's "unsafe"? I bet a person would die of dehydration long before dying from an MVA

Smitty

Smitty;

Now due to litigation (let's hear it for the f*&^%$ lawyers) it's now MVC - as in collision.
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Old 06-17-2010, 12:27 PM   #16
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

You probably know when you are thirsty, - - but it is hard to tell just when you might need your seatbelts.

Mother Nature is a B and her sister Physical Laws will not be denied.
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Old 06-17-2010, 01:22 PM   #17
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

id rather buy some water bottles and take up some sotrage then be plastered to the front window!
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Old 06-17-2010, 06:30 PM   #18
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

http://www.rvhelpdesk.com/seatbelt-laws.html

http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/problems/stud ... tomer.html

Those are useful links for deciding about seatbelts. They aren't required in Indiana, but it was an easy decision for me. You just need to stay attached to the bus, you do not need to be strapped in like a car. A bus wreck and a car wreck are different events. Car crashes are going to accelerate the passengers a lot more. Cars are going to collapse and passengers need to remain in the cage pocket. If you tip your bus over, it will fall on it's side and skid a bit where-as a car is less stabile on it's side and will keep rolling--and can be swatted by another car or something. A bus is big and strong and more reluctant to change directions. There are a myriad of bus accidents to study--which I did before getting rid of my styrofoam Winnebago--those dissolve in minor accidents. I would say, get belts and make sure you don't have gasoline tanks outside the frame rails and you will be able to push a lot of chips into the middle of the table. I don't like anyone's chances if they are sitting on a seat like it's a sunny day while going 60mph with hard furniture and windows all around. Packed between seats like school kids are is better, but as most bus, rv and van accidents are caused by dropping the tires off the edge and rolling, it's not good enough in my opinion.

Regearing can be done without special knowledge. The third-member is a drop-out. It's several pounds maybe, but you unbolt the axle flanges and slide the shafts out a few inches, un-bolt the driveshaft and tie it out of the way, unbolt the ring of bolts holding the third-member to the axle housing and it will come right out. You'll want to rig a jack or something if you are unsure of your ability to benchpress a 300# chunk of grease iron. I've not bothered to look anything up about it, but if you are going over any mountians you might loose 4% of your power per 1,000ft without a turbo. A the spec sheet on my engine says it doesn't derate below 10,000ft. Your motor will have lost 30hp if you are in Denver, say, and 15hp going over the Appalachians. The Eisnhower Tunnel on I70 would have a 175hp engine down to 115hp and soaring EGTs. One gear is a big jump and you don't want to gear it so you don't have a reasonable speed/rpm to sit at going up a steep grade. I would drive it a lot and note how it behaves and then select a gear.
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Old 06-18-2010, 08:22 AM   #19
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

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Originally Posted by slowlane
Anybody remember 'zilches'? Anybody?
I presume that;'s what my wife called them "zorches." Growing up, we called them "Zit-zits."

Get a stick or tree branch, put a plastic bag, bread wrapper, or piece of poly sheeting (visiqueen in the midwest?) on the end. Set a corner on fire with a match, lighter or campfire, and watch little flaming drops fall to the ground with an interesting noise. DO NOT let them fall on skin, or anything of value.
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Old 07-04-2010, 11:07 AM   #20
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

Do you have the skills to rebuild a cabinet? Can you try to use the cabinet as is (may require a little planning). Otherwise, you basically need to dismantle the cabinet (remove face frame from carcass) carefully remove the angled section from the face frame, then completely rebuild the cabinet. We would do it, but David has run two cabinet building shops (1st one was at the age of 16), built bank teller systems for Diebold, built cabinets for park model RV, installed cabinets for many many years, rebuilt some of those factory cabinets (don't ask...we hated that company) and custom built many "built-in" pieces of cabinetry on remodels. But we can't tell you how to do it over the internet. If you can't make it work, than put it on crags list and get another cabinet. Otherwise you run the risk of your cabinet falling apart once you load it up with your stuff. Alternative. See if a cabinet shop or master trim carpenter is willing to rebuild it for you (it will cost you more than a new one).

It looks like a Tri-Pak cabinet... I hate Tri-Pack (don't ask). Try to match the doors at Home Depot or Lowes on one of their ready built cheapies. If you can't match the doors, the you can pull the doors off the old cab and place on new one.
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