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Old 08-13-2010, 09:42 AM   #31
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

we always squirt soapy water to detect leaks
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Old 09-28-2010, 06:28 PM   #32
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

http://www.sturdycorp.com

Sturdy Corporation
1822 Carolina Beach Rd.
Wilmington, NC 28401

Toll Free: (800) 721.3282
Phone: (910) 763.2500
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Old 12-17-2010, 12:00 AM   #33
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

One thing you might consider when building the seats is that a 90 degree angle isn't particularly comfortable in a seat. I've seen where some people will add angled shims to frames like you've built in order to give a more comfortable slant to the seat back.
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Old 12-18-2010, 05:19 PM   #34
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

The pillar is hollow, but the metal is fairly thick since there are 2 layers there. A rivet should be long enough to protrude beyond the back side of whatever you are riveting so the end will mushroom out and sandwich the metal. 1/4" rivets should be long enough. You should get about two full squeezes of the rivet gun before the rivet pops. If not, then maybe you need longer rivets. Are you going to remove the screws, or just avoid them? If you look at my thread you can see how I did it. I removed the screws and then used the same screw holes to attach my sheet metal, then added rivets for extra attachment.
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Old 12-18-2010, 08:39 PM   #35
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

yes, rivits are always good
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Old 12-18-2010, 10:22 PM   #36
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

I used self-tapping screws and a drill to drive them in. You're right, the rivets would look cleaner. Mine looks a little clunky with those hex heads sticking up, although it's not very noticeable since I painted it unless you are looking for it. I went to a sheet metal shop to get my metal - it still wasn't cheap. I would advise against getting galvanized. It's a hassle to paint. Just get regular sheet metal and primer it right away so it doesn't rust. To remove tough screws, I take a hammer and chisel and whack it several times from all sides to loosen it up, then use a drill with a phillips head bit with some good torque and apply a lot of pressure to prevent spinning the bit in the head of the screw. Works 95% of the time. For the rest I keep banging with the chisel until I get the head to where I can grab it with vice grips. Last resort is to cut off the head with an angle grinder cut-off wheel or drill it out if you are concerned about damaging surrounding metal.
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Old 12-19-2010, 10:54 AM   #37
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

There is an outer piece of metal on the window pillars that is only held on by the screws and some caulk. That may come off, but no big deal. The windows are secured by clips on the inside, as you can see, and caulk. They come out from the inside of the bus. You have to take a razor knife to the surrounding caulk inside and out then pry it out carefully with large screwdrivers or something like that. It took me a long time for the first one, but it got easier after that once I developed the technique of applying steady pressure by prying then work my way further down the window. I removed 6 of mine. BTW, I edited my last post for better clarity.
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:02 AM   #38
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel Dan
One thing you might consider when building the seats is that a 90 degree angle isn't particularly comfortable in a seat. I've seen where some people will add angled shims to frames like you've built in order to give a more comfortable slant to the seat back.
no it is not trust me i know that is how my seats are!
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Old 12-22-2010, 11:56 AM   #39
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

I've also been thinking about water pumps. I think it depends on your application. If power conservation is not a big issue for you, then perhaps the electric pump is the way to go. Just mount it in such a way that it is easily replaced if it craps out. I will be plugged in to shore power frequently so will be able to recharge my batteries. I will also have a sink, shower, and outdoor spigot, so for me a central pump is pretty important and power usage is not a huge issue. But if I were boondocking exclusively and full-timing I would reconsider a more manual pumping method.
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Old 12-22-2010, 08:54 PM   #40
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

well for water i can bypass the holding tank and pump and just be hooked up to a fosset for water. but the pump i have is a 2.8 gpm and all the hoses i'm changing to pex tubing, and not the crimp fittings so if i need to it can be fixed easy.
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