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Old 12-23-2010, 07:49 AM   #41
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

Bus is looking good. When I pop riveted the sheetmetal over, I started out drilling every hole with 1/8" drill bit then up to the 3/16". I later realized about halfway through, it was alot eaiser to use a self tapping screw to hold the metal in place, then also to use the self tapping screw as a pilot for the rest of the holes too. I broke alot of 1/8" drill bits but not one self tapping screw. After I had a pilot hole I went back and opened up the holes big enough for the pop rivets. Hope this made sense. Started little holes with self tappers, removed screws, then made big holes.
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Old 12-24-2010, 06:50 AM   #42
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

Quote:
Originally Posted by jak
I need to install a spigot I can gravity feed water from my tanks for cooking or whatever incase the pump takes a dump or I dont have power...
as for now I have no way to get water from my tanks but with the pump I havent installed a feed from a hose with a check valve or thatever so all I got is fill the tanks and pump them out......
little by little one thing at a time
take care
JAK
how about the old hand pumps in the older campers my mom and dads first in th bed camper had one of those at the sink.
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Old 12-24-2010, 01:41 PM   #43
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leonidas
. . . . In other parts of the bus, I had an air system/braking related question. When I start my bus (30 deg F), it takes quite awhile for the air to build up. I heard hissing and went belowdecks to check and see where it was coming and it was coming out of two air regulators. The air was coming out pretty fast and I don't see why seeing as the bus was starting out with no air in the system (it drains over very long periods of time). Is this supposed to happen maybe as a result of low air/cold/anything? Eventually it stopped between 100-120 psi on the dash gauge and built up more quickly after that. Can anyone explain/troubleshoot this for me? I would be indebted to a forum member for a crash course in bus air brakes :P
I'm not a mechanic, but have driven commercial vehicles with air brakes. I am assuming that what is leaking is an over-pressure relief valve? The first thing I can think of is that you are getting water freezing into ice in the regulator's works.

Do you drain the water from the air tanks every time the bus is run? You either have to get underneath and turn a petcock on the bottom of each air tank, or often there is a valve with a pull cord and spring return so you can drain the tanks without getting underneath.

When you compress the ambient air, it loses its ability to suspend non-compressible water, and the humidity in the air 'rains out' into liquid in the tanks. Some (all?) vehicles with air brakes have air dryers to help reduce this. But part of every daily truck check is to open each tank's petcock/valve when it has some air pressure, and keep it open until the valve stops 'spitting' any water sitting in the bottom of the tank, and only air comes out. If you have not been doing this, perhaps some water in the air lines is freezing in the regulator when the bus sits? Just a guess.

Another possibility is that the 'regulator' is wearing out, and the spring pressure inside that holds in low air pressure isn't what it used to be.

Maybe someone with some brake repair experience can chime in and add to or correct my guesses.

As far as crash courses, most states have CDL manuals online which include sections on air brake systems. You need to understand the difference between your 'spring brakes' and your service brakes. Reading these manuals will give you an idea of how the two systems operate. They should also outline how to make all the pre-trip checks, and describe what will happen if you lose air pressure while driving. Good luck.
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Old 12-24-2010, 02:46 PM   #44
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

If you get a good pump (not one of the new fancy ones but a good basic multi fixture one) it should run for years without crapping out. I have been running 30 and 40 year old Shurflos (208 without a problem. To clarify that... they are 30 and 40 years old NOW and I am using them multiple times a day, 5 days a week. One of the pumps was bought new in 1981 and never used. Sat around "stored" (we just never needed it). the one that was in our RV (circa 1970's) started leaking. I checked with an RV place for parts and they said the replacement heads wouldn't work as it was too old (not true... I found out later). A "Rocket" faucet will operate with a pump, under city water pressure and by hand (pumping).

Rocket hand faucet (just one of many sources) http://www.amazon.com/Diversified-Wo.../dp/B000WNZX3E
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Old 12-27-2010, 12:41 PM   #45
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

The drains are plumbed to the bottom of the tank, so that you can blow off the water and curd. You don't want that stuff going through your brake system.

Reccomended practice is to drain all your tanks to empty when you shut the thing down for the day.
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Old 12-27-2010, 09:45 PM   #46
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceni John
But shouldn't your air dryer be taking most of the moisture out of the air before it even reaches the tanks?
Not all skoolies have air dryers installed. My '84 BB doesn't. When and if my ship comes in I plan to install one. The advice to drain the tanks, I would assume, is for those without air dryers.
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Old 12-28-2010, 08:25 PM   #47
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

Yeah, probably water in the system and its freezing. Your air dryer is probably a Bendix AD9 or AD3 if memory serves me correctly. I know the AD9 has a replaceable cartridge that you should look into changing. Not sure about the AD3.

If you decide to replace the cartridge yourself, here is how its done:

BENDIX AD9

If you look at the drier assembly you should see a black "can" with an aluminum housing bolted to it from the bottom with air lines coming out of it. Assuming its the AD9 (not sure about AD3) unbolt the 9/16 nuts and bolts and loosen the upper bracket that secures the "can" to the mounting bracket. Loosen and take off all air lines and electrical connection.

Depending on the mounting application, the aluminum housing will drop out of the bottom of the "can" exposing the cylinder looking cartridge inside. You will need to put the entire housing in a vice and get a filter strap wrench to spin off the cartridge.

You will have to find a trucking supply company or maybe Napa to get a replacement cartridge. I believe there is a core also.

You will also see a small aluminum piece at the very bottom of the housing that should have 3 small bolts attaching it to the main housing. This is the "Purge valve". This is also replaceable. It has o-rings inside that dry rot. I would recommend replacing it also.

There is also a rebuild kit for the purge valve which would be cheaper than the whole unit.

This is just a quick crash course on replacing these. You can contact me if you have any further questions.

Good luck!
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Old 01-04-2011, 02:22 PM   #48
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

that is a frwaking cool shirt!
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Old 01-05-2011, 09:46 AM   #49
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

http://www.four51.com/UI/Customer.aspx?p=Home has some nice stuffs if you are looking for Thomas logo wear.
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Old 01-27-2011, 01:38 AM   #50
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Re: The Moldy Twinkie

Quote:
Originally Posted by zim
http://www.four51.com/UI/Customer.aspx?p=Home has some nice stuffs if you are looking for Thomas logo wear.

Linky no worky.
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