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Old 04-09-2016, 06:57 PM   #101
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I have searched extensively for wiring diagrams, but the oldest ones I can find are 2002 and that's only on a few models. Most electrical diagrams are 2007 or newer. And that's what I've read here in the past. It would seem the information we are looking for was intentionally taken off the internet. Interesting.
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Old 04-09-2016, 07:55 PM   #102
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I may have it, actually. The seller had a pile of stuff and I haven't gone every single piece of paper yet. And there may be something in the Thomas manual I have as well. I just haven't had time to dig into it all recently.
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Old 04-11-2016, 12:17 PM   #103
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Until I find any wiring harness diagram in my possession I can tell you about a fantastic deal I just got on eBay for some windows.

I found a guy parting out a shuttle bus and is selling me all the windows and doors for 600 clams. There are more than I need so I can sell some and recoup some of the cost but what is left has turned out to be the perfect window and enclosing solution for my project.

I've been struggling with the whole window decision anyway, knowing the old salts say get rid of the crap, to which I agree. I do like the look of the stock windows but also appreciate their lack of screens, sealing, and security. I've searched for suitable window replacements for months, knowing the re-enclosure effort after the roof raise will depend heavily on them, not to mention the floor layout.

What I've found on craigslist and ebay are a bunch of mismatched windows that left me underwhelmed and frustrated. I didn't like having to chance my way into hopefully finding windows of good quality that matched reasonably well so the final product doesn't look too awful.

Then I found this deal on ebay and realized what a superb solution it will be. I was able to rework my layout a little to accommodate them and found that I can and it will work out beautifully. I'll get:

Windows
7 - 36x36
1 - 36x42
2 - 22x24
4 - 12x36

Doors
1 34x80 bifold glass entry door
1 48x72 rear side double door
1 38x60 rear door

I'll use four of the 36x36 units up front starting behind the driver's seat and entry door (two on each side) in the living room over the couches. I'll use the 36x42 unit in the galley kitchen on the right side. Then I'll use two more 36x36 units in the very rear in the master bedroom where, conveniently, the last bay is larger than the other bays and ready to receive them as-is.

I'll use the 48x72 double doors singly when I build in the storage below deck. These are hinged the full length and will be perfect access doors. I'll need to remove and cover the smaller window in each. Question: Should I install them with hinges on top or on bottom?

I'm not sure about the rest. I could potentially use one of the smaller windows in the bathroom but I had planned on not having any windows in the bathroom. Thoughts? The bathroom is going to get plenty of insulation all the way around for privacy (as much as can be expected) but I hadn't thought seriously of including a window.

For the five units in the front and in the kitchen I'll have to cut out the structural members that will be in their way and build the rough opening to accept them, obviously. Not that big a deal and totally worth the effort.

They are located six hours from me, so I'll leave at O dark thirty this Saturday morning to get there before noon. Thankfully the seller is going to assist with the removal. Depending on how long that takes I may end up staying in town (on points!) and return home Sunday.

Here they are still attached:







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Old 04-11-2016, 01:09 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by Whiskeyjr View Post
You could buy or borrow a "fox and hound"



I've used ones like this for years. It will positively locate the wires for you.
I use these "toners" in my work all the time... (im a telecom geek).. you tone out wires 2 (1 pair) at a time.. and when you think you got the correct wires.. you short them together and the tone will cease... its an excellent way to find wires in a bundle (that are not connected to any power or shorted)...
-Christopher

P.S. i see that one will track live circuits.. so of course dont shrt the wires...
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Old 04-11-2016, 01:37 PM   #105
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Thanks cadillackid, hopefully I can find one a little cheaper...
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Old 04-11-2016, 02:23 PM   #106
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this one is cheaper thogh you cant use it on Live wires..

Robot Check
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Old 04-11-2016, 02:37 PM   #107
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Very cool cadillackid, thanks a lot!
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Old 04-11-2016, 02:50 PM   #108
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Question: Should I install them with hinges on top or on bottom?
I'd hinge on top, keeps the rain from entering in the compartments when their open
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Old 04-11-2016, 07:53 PM   #109
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Thanks Scooternj!

Attaching at the top is my first preference, but I was wondering if someone might point out a not-so-obvious advantage to hinging at the bottom. The only one I could think of was not needing to hold it up while open, with a stick or hydraulic arm, such that it wouldn't come down on my head, which it would!
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Old 04-11-2016, 08:02 PM   #110
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Nope, not going to bite on that one. Hinged at the top, otherwise it might tend to open while traveling sometimes. You'll get a bald spot on your head from holding the door up, but you'll get used to it.
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